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911 SC Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Porsche recommends front wheel bearings be replaced around 100,000 miles. I am doing my rotors and pads and decided to have a go at my wheel bearings since theyíre easily accessible. I am more DIY than mechanic so I havenít learned everything yet. My question is, do I just replace the inner & outer bearing? Do the races need to be replaced as well? Is there only an inner race? I was having trouble finding all the correct parts on pelican. Any help is appreciated


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Old 09-06-2019, 04:19 PM
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Have done mine, yes replace races so they match your new bearings. Heat is your friend on removal. You will have to knock out races so heat on the outside causes metal expansion. Will make it easier, but will need a good hammer and substantial chisel. When you get new bearings and races put them in your freezer for awhile days work. Apply good bearings grease before you knock new races in place, make sure they seat completely, you can tell by the sound when your hitting with hammer. Then just work bearings grease into new bearings and your good
Good luck and take your time
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Old 09-06-2019, 04:58 PM
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Honestly, I think bearings should be left alone. They will make noise if there is a problem. They can go a zillion miles, particularly front bearings. I occasionally clean them up and then repack them and I keep them adjusted properly, which normally does not require much adjustment. If you will clean and repack the bearings, they must be reinstalled in their exact positions. Do one hub at a time.

Yes, replacing bearings also requires replacing the races which are pressed into the aluminum hub. There is plenty of opportunity here to damage the hubs. Yes, heat is a good idea. Get them good and hot, and be careful not to damage the bore in the hub. A press is best but you can 'walk' them out.

Again, I leave wheel bearings alone if they are not making noise. Whether you replace or just clean and reinstall, use plenty of grease. There should be ample grease around the spindle between the bearings. Also, importantly, you must press grease into the new or cleaned bearing. There is an easy way to use the heel of your hand to push grease into the wide/fat side of the bearing so that the grease gets all the way in and around the rollers.

Anyway, that's what I would do. Repack them occasionally. Replace when they fail. They give plenty of warning.
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Old 09-06-2019, 05:19 PM
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You can't repack the inner bearings unless you replace the seals, which are cheap.
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Old 09-06-2019, 05:20 PM
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Hard to tell what your races look like with the grease in situ...but if you replace the bearings replace the race....it is a bit of work but not bad....freeze the races overnight before putting them in place..and I left the hub in the sun to expand it a tad...not a big deal just take your time.
I used the steel spare wheel as the 'anvil' on the lug side...

Otoh, my rears have almost 300k on them with no problems....
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Old 09-06-2019, 06:47 PM
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For $50 I got the races pressed in and hubs blasted to look new at a local shop. Worth every penny.
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Old 09-06-2019, 08:57 PM
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Inspect the bearings and races. You'll need to remove the seal and clean everything up first. As others have said, we only replaced them if there was a problem (discolored, noisy, etc).

Replace the seals and use synthetic wheel bearing grease. Yes, it does make a difference if tracking the car at all. Red Line and Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty are my personal favorites. The price difference over regular grease is negligible.

If you must replace the bearings, the races get replaced too. Remove the old races using a drift and hammer. Then clean everything up and heat the hub. The oven works good if the wife isn't home. Hub should be about 200 deg (keep checking temp with infrared gun). Drive the races in with a race driver. Press is not needed. Reverse the appropriate sized cone in the driver set to install the seal.

https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Carrying-Universal-Aluminum-Automotive/dp/B07DC31TB3/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A5YTZYWP2090ZS0W7ZA4
Old 09-07-2019, 06:51 AM
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I agree only replace if nessessary. There is a high probability of damaging something especially with the aluminum hub. The risk to reward is not worth it. And new bearings will not be near the quality of the old ones no matter the brand
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Old 09-07-2019, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superman View Post
Honestly, I think bearings should be left alone. They will make noise if there is a problem. They can go a zillion miles, particularly front bearings. I occasionally clean them up and then repack them and I keep them adjusted properly, which normally does not require much adjustment. If you will clean and repack the bearings, they must be reinstalled in their exact positions. Do one hub at a time.

Yes, replacing bearings also requires replacing the races which are pressed into the aluminum hub. There is plenty of opportunity here to damage the hubs. Yes, heat is a good idea. Get them good and hot, and be careful not to damage the bore in the hub. A press is best but you can 'walk' them out.

Again, I leave wheel bearings alone if they are not making noise. Whether you replace or just clean and reinstall, use plenty of grease. There should be ample grease around the spindle between the bearings. Also, importantly, you must press grease into the new or cleaned bearing. There is an easy way to use the heel of your hand to push grease into the wide/fat side of the bearing so that the grease gets all the way in and around the rollers.

Anyway, that's what I would do. Repack them occasionally. Replace when they fail. They give plenty of warning.
I think I am going to just repack them, I had just taken both out and inspected them and they donít look bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannobee View Post
Inspect the bearings and races. You'll need to remove the seal and clean everything up first. As others have said, we only replaced them if there was a problem (discolored, noisy, etc).

Replace the seals and use synthetic wheel bearing grease. Yes, it does make a difference if tracking the car at all. Red Line and Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty are my personal favorites. The price difference over regular grease is negligible.

If you must replace the bearings, the races get replaced too. Remove the old races using a drift and hammer. Then clean everything up and heat the hub. The oven works good if the wife isn't home. Hub should be about 200 deg (keep checking temp with infrared gun). Drive the races in with a race driver. Press is not needed. Reverse the appropriate sized cone in the driver set to install the seal.

https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Carrying-Universal-Aluminum-Automotive/dp/B07DC31TB3/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A5YTZYWP2090ZS0W7ZA4
After removing the seal and cleaning everything up it looks like the races are in excellent condition. Had the bearing inspected and it is in perfect working order. I am going to repack with Valvoline High temperature Red Grease





Quote:
Originally Posted by Superman View Post
You can't repack the inner bearings unless you replace the seals, which are cheap.

Do you know where I can find some cheap seals that are OEM quality with quick shipping in the US?
Old 09-09-2019, 11:59 AM
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I noticed all my original bearings actually say SKF on them, im assuming they have already been replaced then? The previous owner never mentioned that he replaced them, I wonder when they were replaced. I have gone ahead and repacked them. Anyone know where can I order a oil seal? Having a hard time finding them on Pelican Parts
Old 09-09-2019, 01:49 PM
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I usually replace them with the rotors. They are cheap.
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Old 09-09-2019, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911 Rod View Post
I usually replace them with the rotors. They are cheap.


Smart idea considering how easy it is when youíre already doing the rotor.


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Old 09-09-2019, 02:26 PM
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:39 AM
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I would imagine that grease seals are available at any auto parts store. They are not specific to only certain model years of a certain brand. They have an outer and an inner diameter. Basically any seal with those dimensions is correct.
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Old 09-14-2019, 09:20 AM
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I have owned various Porsche models since 1987. Most have similar front wheel bearing designs. Most have seen dual use-- street and track, including racing.

My current Porsche is a 1975-based 911 race car. It is also registered for occasional street use.

I have done most of my own work since 1987.

During my Porsche ownership I have never had a front wheel bearing fail or begin to fail.

I have routinely changed the front bearings on all of the Porsches I have owned (only exception is a 993 cab I owned for a short while). In my opinion, it is really easy to do, and the bearings have not historically been very expensive.

I have always used Redline CV2 for wheel bearings and CV joints.
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Old 09-14-2019, 01:51 PM
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The only failure I've had is when you can't tighten them any more and there still is a little bit of play.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayles View Post
For $50 I got the races pressed in and hubs blasted to look new at a local shop. Worth every penny.
@Ayles, I'm in the greater Seattle area. If you don't mind me asking, what shop did you take your hubs to get the races pressed in and cleaned up at? TIA
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:00 AM
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I had it done at Prova Motorsports in Magnolia. I have had them do other work as well and been happy each time.
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:24 AM
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There are many many threads on this project. It's a fun job a lot of us have done and commented on. Make sure you let your wife s/o know why there are bearings in the freezer and don't wash the hubs in the dishwasher!
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Old 09-16-2019, 02:51 PM
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After inspecting my bearings I concluded they were in good condition and very tight still. Races were perfect as well, I just repacked and reinstalled using a new grease seal! Thank you for the advice!


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Old 09-16-2019, 02:56 PM
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