My 81 SC build/Front suspension pan replacement
 

Hello everyone. I have been on the forums for few years now. I don't post much, I usually browse the for sale section. This post is about my first 911 I ever owned. I bought it June, of 2016. It was a driver but needed a lot of TLC. I began on the engine. I pretty much just did a tune up. Change all the injectors, spark plugs, rubber hoses itc. After a few months I decided I wanted to backdate the exhaust system. During removal, I broke a few exhaust studs. At that point I decided to pull the motor out and do a bunch of "while you were in there stuff". Soon after that my son was born and the project stalled for about 2.5 years. Recently I was able to find time to work on my Porsche. I really want to drive it again. I am not doing a complete restoration, just fixing it up to have a solid driver.
My build starts with the front suspension pan replacement and some other rust issues.
Pic are coming.

Some pictures when I first bought the car.

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Some pictures of when I first pulled the motor.
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I pulled the motor in 2017 and the project stalled for almost 2 years.
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Recently I began the rust repairs.
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I found the front clip here on the forums. It is rust free and has everything I need to make my repairs.
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Front suspension is out.
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Now is the tricky part. It is crucial that the new pans suspension points are in exactly the same location. I have been watching Tom from aghh Garage Time and he has been very inspirational. I decided that in order to insure proper alignment I will build a jig.

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Man... I don't think I've ever seen an SC that rusted out.....that's some work there...luck to you...

You can just refit the suspension to check alignment.Restoration design have Ytube video on this.If the front pan is that rusted,I bet youll eventually complete a full body restoration,once you inspect the "usual" places.

I did see that video and I don't agree with that method. There is a chance the pan will be few mil higher or lower and that will throw off the geometry of the suspension.

Made some progress today on the jig build.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1568055346.jpg

Finished up the jig today. Now I can start removing the suspension pan.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1568521528.jpg

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Great job, stick to it and you and your son can enjoy the car for ever!

Old Pan is almost completely out.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1568915401.jpg

This area is not part of the Pan, but will definitely have to be replaced with new metal.
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Made some progress in the last few weeks. I cut all the rust out in the Battery area.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571005044.jpg
Tacked in new metal.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571005119.jpg
I also closed off the hole for the condenser blower. I don't plan on using AC.
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Cool stuff! I like your jig and that front clip was a great score. It doesn't look like you need any extra inspiration to pull this off but Classic Carreras is the website of an excellent restorer in Ireland who documents his work, much of which is shell rebuilds...and in Ireland and GB, 911's rust badly. Best, John/CT

Thanks for the link John. I will definitely check it out. I am very amateur at this and I love learning from other peoples work.

Nicely done work going on there.

Sweet looking SC. I'm pleased for you that you will have an excellent car at the end of it and the personal satisfaction that you have done it yourself.

I still have to fill in 2 holes, but for the most part this piece is welded in.
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I have a question for the experienced guys here. At this point, once I finish grinding down the welds of course, is it ok to just spray epoxy primer or should I first apply fiberglass filler over the welds?

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Great Job on this! Love the jig too.

Regarding the welds, a sandblaster is best prior to epoxy primer. However I wire brush with an angle grinder and then sand with an 80 Grit disc.

There are certainly other opinions out there too.

Tom thanks for the reply. So don't bother with Fiberglass filler? Just sandblast, wire wheel, 80 grit and Epoxy primer?

Not that I am an expert.

I did the same exact section (bumper brace) - similar approach - I used a bit of bondo to smooth out the welds so it would look as stock as possible..

I also used some POR 15 to go around the area of the bumper brace..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571687662.jpg

I used UPOL Gravitex to mirror the coating..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571687662.jpg

I thnik it turned out well.. for a two car garage operation..

Inside with a bit of bondo..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571688047.jpg

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I think it just makes the patch unnoticeable - not that your hiding anything - it's just that most people wont know when inspecting (unless your a body man)..

No, I haven't used any of the fiberglass filler. I followed the SPI epoxy data sheet for metal prep.

Wax and grease remover is also an important step along with the drying and spraying timing.

The manufacturer of the epoxy is smarter than me!

Are you using the filler to smooth the welds a bit? That can be done after epoxy preferably.
Tom

High Life thanks for your reply. The repair looks solid.

Tom the reason I am asking about fiberglass filler is that after some research on the internet some people use fiberglass filler after welding to seal any tiny cavities or pin holes to keep moisture out. The epoxy primer I will be using is DP90 by PPG and I am unsure if I should dress the welded areas with fiberglass filler before I apply the epoxy primer.

I'll let Tom answer your question - However I personally used epoxy first then smoothed / filled after. The epoxy I used stated on the can to do so..

One note, I didnt use much at all filler.. maybe, maybe an 1/16 after sanding..but it filled in the pinholes.

I did read that this is somewhat of a debate in the autobody world: Epoxy or No Epoxy Under Filler - Autobodystore

It may have to do with the brand of epoxy / type of filler - etc. etc. but I have had no issues (bubbling cracking etc) after 2 years..

I see... I don't have experience with both products to know which one adheres better to a pinhole. Epoxy primer is pretty tenacious and low viscosity, therefore if applied with a brush to the welded area you should be good to go. The brush can dab and slide epoxy into all kinds of little crevices. Spray the larger area with a second/third coat.

Cleaning the pinhole is the hard part, right?

At the risk of sounding like a know it all jerk, here's what I would do: Go over the pin holes with a TIG welder until there are no pin holes. Overkill, YES, but TIG has its advantages and pin hole free is one of them.

I'm sure I'm in the minority of dudes who TIG weld suspension pans and even simulate the spot welds!

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I havn't posted much in this thread, but I have been somewhat working on the car. I took a brake from the suspension pan and decided to overhaul the front suspension components.
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Disassembled everything, salvaged what I could and sent the rest to Rebel Racing.
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Spindles are raised 19mm and reinforced.
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Looks like this may be in my future soon on my 82sc. Do you still have the Jig? I live in NY and would be interested in buying it or renting it off you.