Anyone open up a Bosh Seat motor? If so, ideas on crimping it shut?

[Hotshot]

After re soldering and fixing the switches, insulating them properly, I reinstalled them and one or two would now work.. traced it to the motor itself. Took it out, used a screw driver to turn the gear, seemed ok.

Plugged it in again no load, and it worked. So, re install, and nothing. Very intermittent. Couldn’t figure it out. Something was making if stop and not turn. Almost cutting in n out. We all know Porsche parts are $$. Also, it’s a motor.. there mostly the same, and it’s made by Bosh...because it’s a motor in a Porsche lol..

These things seem to be $30-$300 so let’s try and fix.

Everything seemed fine except the brush track was dirty.. so I cleaned it. I also think there were some mis alignment of the can and the brush mounts that caused some interference. This motor was fastened with 3 tabs that go through the hole in the gear side and then probably had some industrial hydraulic crimped fasten it.

You have to use a good set of pliers to squish the tabs together. Once open the can slides out, the armature and the brush holder. There also a set screw one the gearbox side that seems to be adjusted as a brake/torque adjust. I put it to where it was locitied and re loctited it. Now the fun part..

Putting it back together.....You have to splay out the metal tabs as the motor needs a tight fit to work. I needed a friend to help me as one has to hold it, and the other hits the tab with a flat head and a hammer.

It’s a pain but it will go.

Now I have a 36 year old motor with brushes set to last another 36 years.

I set the worm gear screw back to where it was. You don’t want it in all the way or the gears won’t turn

[reclino]

JB weld around the flange and splay the tabs out with hammer an punch. Once the JB kicks its not going to open up
David

[Hotshot]

Awesome. It’s not like I’ll need to open it again.