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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 188
Cleaning battery area - concerned about drainage

I recently replaced a conventional lead-acid battery with a modern AGM battery due to light evidence of a battery acid leak.

I cleaned the area and installed the new battery.

About two months later, I noticed more white residue; remnants from the prior leak. I decided to do a more thorough cleaning and researched on Pelican and other forums on how to handle this.

I used warm water and baking soda, letting it sit, and agitating it with a brush. I rinsed the area, and then cleaned it again with NOCO Battery Cleaner and Acid detector.

I then flushed the area with 5 gallons of warm water.




In the picture above the battery area was still damp. The light rust colored spots are essentially gone after wiping the area dry and using some paint sealant.

The color of the water coming out the drain holes, as seen in the cup, is a bit concerning.

Should I flush the area further? Should I use some product to treat inside the pan? I don't expect more than surface corrosion and rust at this point, but without acquiring an inspection camera and seeing it for myself, I do not know for sure.

The cross member between the front of the torsion bar tubes is dented. The undercoating is missing in spots and there is nothing more than light surface corrosion present.

I did not remove the rubber plugs. Should I be concerned about water standing in there?
Old 10-08-2019, 11:31 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Socal
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If the acid leak has removed paint , I’d remove water and treat the bare metal .
A dust-buster can will work if you don’t have a compressor , and desiccant bags can be added to trunk to finalize , or if you have a dehimifyer/portableac you can seal the trunk with plastic sheet or trash can liners and let the machine work for you .

Different model , but page 2 of this thread shows what I did to treat the area until I revisit it in the future to finish the repair .

Finally got my car back !!!
Old 10-08-2019, 12:21 PM
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In any area I can visually inspect, the acid leak was not enough to cause damage.

After cleaning, I did use an air compressor and leaf blower to attempt to dry the entire area. I also left a fan running in garage.

I don't know how the drain holes run in the tub, but was surprised to see water coming out of the three holes in the cross member.

I suspect I'm over-analyzing the situation, but I can't address what I don't know.
Old 10-08-2019, 12:32 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Lochie,

That looks a fairly typical air cooled frunk to me. The insides of the battery mount and the cross member will display surface rust as the factory anti-rust treatment has long given up.

The stone guard on the seam of the tank has started to lift as rust has developed underneath. The next thing will be for pin holes to form around the seam. It will look worse underneath as the foam seal can keep the tank seam wet.

Pretty easy and cheap fix though!

For my last 2 G models I've:

Removed the tank and removed any stone guard that has lifted or has rust underneath. Repaired or reapplied stone guard on the bare metal araes and repainted the tank completely.

With the hollow body sections, I've removed the plugs on the cross members and injected fish oil and body wax into the 2 side legs, the front cross member and the hollow area under the battery tray. Makes a bit of a mess but is easy to clean up. If the paint work inside the frunk near the battery or the spare is a bit chatty, it's easy to spray some paint while the tanks out.

While the tank's out, it will be pretty tempting to replace the fuel pump if its still the original.

Once the innards have stopped dripping wax, re-insert the plugs.

Straight forward and quite satisfying I have found.

Last edited by Peter M; 10-09-2019 at 12:16 AM..
Old 10-09-2019, 12:10 AM
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Thanks Peter!

I borrowed an inspection camera from a local auto parts store yesterday in order to investigate under the battery box and inside the front cross member.

Under the battery box is suspect; I see obvious corrosion and what appears to either be loose coating material and/or actual rust. All the vacuuming and using an air compressor to blow the material around does nothing, so it's solid.



The front cross member looks very clean, fortunately.


I used the air compressor to blow the areas dry and sprayed a little WD40 in there to help as well. I used paint sealant on the painted areas and called it good enough for now.

I expect I will do something similar to what you suggest, Peter, in the future. Maybe use a product like POR15 with an undercoating sprayer to minimize the rust and corrosion from spreading.
Old 10-09-2019, 08:22 AM
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