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Backdate conversion hood issues
I've have a 80's 911 SC that was backdated a while back. The hood was replaced with a fiber glass hood, but it does not sit flush. It seems like the curvature of the hood is off, and therefore is elevated a few mm in the middle when closed.
The shop recommended removing the weather strip to have the hood sit lower, but that doesn't seem like the proper thing to do, as i want to protect the electronics. Does anytbody have any idea of how i can correct this? Just spent a few hours trying to play with the alignment and didnt get any closer to fixing the problem. I hate how the hood looks... |
Can you adjust the latch/closing mechanisim down a bit so it hauls the middle of the hood down to line it up wit the rest of it.
Or put small rubber blocks (a few mm high) on the outside edges to lift them to match the middle. |
Sounds like it’s bowed. Can you see a difference in the curvature of the hood when it is open vs closed. If possible, adjust the latch forward or slide the hood rearward on the hinges and see if it helps. Be careful of the gap between the hood and cowl.
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Your body guy does not know much!
FG hoods are sometimes problematic. It’s now more an issue with the fenders which can be moved up and down a bit. Skip #1 if you are satisfied with the door alignment. 1. Door to rear quarter, window ledge, front cowl and rocker in that order. If you do not have a few thin shims already, cut out two or three out of really thin scrap sheet metal and paint then to avoid rust. 2. Hood to cowl, and center front. You can adjust cowl up or down a little bit with the stablelizer support in the frunk. Check hood seal against entire front clip. 3. First, fender to cowl (remember rubber thingy in between) and door while leaving most of the bolts off towards front. Then slowly work bolt by bolt towards front matching the edge of hood as you go. Pull up or push down front edge of fender to meet the hood height as the fender will give a little. Pay attention to consistent gap. Have shims ready. 4. Make sure your hood latch is in good working order as you will be pulling it at least 25 times per side in #3, above. Alternative is to run a temporary/emergency wire from the hood latch out one of the headlight wiring holes on the driver’s side. 5. Patience, patience, patience. Plan on 20 hours or so............ Cheers, Johan |
fiberglass hoods are not created equally. You get what you pay for and the aftermarket world can be
Cruel. I don't see how spending 20 hours playing whack a mole is going to change Much. Time to cut into some fiberglass or buy another hood. Pics??? |
If it's only out by a few mm it's probably better than most FG hoods.
Johan's advice is good, sounds like you could start with #3, sentence 2.... loosening anything at the cowl could throw off the gap between fender and door at the top. |
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But yeah, pics are always good! |
It's a common problem with glass hoods. I prefer the aluminum ones.
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Seeing what you are dealing with would be helpful....
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i had that problem with a glass hood i originally bought to do my green car. i had to re-radius the hood as it curved too much and sat high in the middle. i tried everything i could think of to get it to sit flat, but ultimately had to cut it and reglass is in a more relaxed arc.
then i sold it and went steel. i extended a short hood... |
It’s extremely hard to get the pictures to show what I mean, but here is an attempt.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571018538.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571018570.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571018641.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571018797.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571018827.jpg |
It’s like the curvature of the hood curves a little too much and therefore pops up in the middle. Instead of being flush with the side fenders, it’s a few mm higher and therefore you can see the rubber.
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The glass hood wants to curve at an even radius. A steel hood has a structure that keeps the curvature correct for the fenders. You would need to reinforce the glass hood so it stays flatter in the middle. In reality, the glass parts are made for the track. Lightness is more of a concern than cosmetics.
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that's exactly what mine did. you're going to have to rework that sucker to get it to fit...
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Can you glass in a few metal strips longitudally down the hood to flatten it out a bit.
Tony |
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Easy fix too. |
when driving fast the windforce presses it down, no worry.
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