Autoheat backdate to levers

[Zero-H20]

I've searched all over but haven't been able to find a thread of anyone showing how to actually do this. I have true auto heat in my '86 with no levers coming out of the box, just the dial on top that controls the heat. How hard is it to backdate that to use just a lever? I've seen people mention friction wafers and adding a cable, but a picture is worth a thousand words. You can see how mine looks in the attached pic. Looks like I would only have one lever. Can anyone give part numbers for what I need? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Noah

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[Jonny042]

I used a cast-off parking brake assembly with dual heat levers from an SC to backdate the auto-heat on the Rot Rod.

From what I recall nothing too complicated about it.

[Zero-H20]

Got any pics of the process? Will I need to buy a whole new parking brake assembly or could I just buy the lever and update the guts?

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[LUFTKUL]

I don't have any pictures, but I swapped my auto-heat on my '84 with an assembly from an '88 that had dual heat levers. Fairly easy as the cables loop around each lever's hooks underneath. It makes sense if you have both in your hand. I neatly tucked the auto wires out of the way underneath. Your footwell blowers will no longer work without an electrical mod or you can take them out and put in piping.

[Zero-H20]

So I would need to go ahead and buy the whole paring brake unit from a car with the levers? Maybe I just need to start taking it apart and see how it all works...

[SkiVT]

I bought a single lever and believe it bolted to the existing parking brake, on my 1983. The autoheat lever in your picture just stays in place without being connected to the autoheat. It looks something like this:

911 sc auto heater levers

[Zero-H20]

That link is really helpful! Did you have to do anything with the springs inside the unit? When messing with the shorter lever it won't stay in place, it returns to the "closed' position I think.

[SkiVT]

No, the combination of washers holds my lever up, or in whatever position I choose. So it's not full on or full off, you can vary the amount of heat across the range of motion of the lever. The biggest pain was stringing the cable back to the flapper boxes. I believe I had to pull one side out to string it through the loop in the lever, then thread it back to the flapper box.

[carlvs]

DcAuto in Rocky mount, NC has used parts. Here is a parts diagram.




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[cpa]

If DC Auto has a park brake assembly go a 1982 with auto heat it will have the levers you need. It’s the bottom one in the brake down above.

[Lake Guy]

I'm also thinking about going with an autoheat delete on my 84 Carrera. I've already taken the engine blower out and have older tin so things work OK to get heat headed forward. The foot well blowers are there but they don't run. Even without the blowers operational I get way more heat than I need at full hot. Of course the engine RPM has a bit of a bearing on the flow of air so at idle is less than when driving.

So, show me some pictures of what you've done please.

[SkiVT]

My 83 had the part #30 so I only needed part 29. I happened to get it from DC. The top part of part 30 connects to the autoheat actuator.

[Lake Guy]

Originally Posted by SkiVT

My 83 had the part #30 so I only needed part 29. I happened to get it from DC. The top part of part 30 connects to the autoheat actuator.

Thanks for the feedback - my 84 has a part that looks like #30 but it reaches into the tunnel on the bottom side where the flapper cables connect. I don’t want to really mess around with this part of the system but I need a handle set up to mount onto the shaft that has enough friction to resist the springs pulling the flappers closed. Anyone do this?