PARTIAL DROP COMING UP: What else would you fix?
 

Hey everyone,

So I am braving my first partial engine drop to fix a disconnected oil breather hose and, while I am there, replacing everything the Triangle Of Death has to offer so that I have peace of mind that area is all as good as can be when she goes back in. I will also be replacing to over-expanded intake rubber sleeves so the CIS will be coming off to get this all done.

My question is what else would you recommend I attend to or check for while doing this? I'd like to do as much as possible and ideally would order parts all ahead of the partial drop so would love any advice you guys might have before I go for it.

Interested to hear your thoughts!! :)

Thanks!!
Dan

check heater hoses. Easy to change with partial drop

Thanks - My heat is backdated so the are long gone but good to know! ;)

Good time to replace any vac lines.

The bushings on the throttle linkage. Get the brass ones. They'll last forever.

Put some JB Weld on the idiot light switch where the metal crimps over the plastic part. That will keep oil from seeping past in the future.

Most important, don't forget to disconnect the shift linkage from the transmission.

Grab the big breather hose and see how hard the rubber is. If it feels like solid plastic replace it. You should be able to completely collapse it with your hand.

Replace all rubber fuel lines.

Regardless this is getting replaced anyway, it's off, stacked in oil and lord knows when it was last looked at so it's gone and being replaced! ;)

Thanks Dave - I'll definitely do this, appreciate the suggestion! :)

Take the opportunity to clean everything you can. Also, check all fasteners that you can get a wrench on and be sure they are properly torqued. Also check the triangle of death for any leaks. Finally, if your rubber seal abound the engine compartment is original, it’s a good time to change that out (easier with a full drop, though). Enjoy.

Oil thermostat and cooler o rings, and breather cover gasket

Might want to pull the rocker shafts and check for wear on shafts or bushings. Replace with RSR seals. Other: rubber engine tin seal, upgrade fuel lines (already mentioned), check cam chain wear, installed pressure feed tensioners (? I don't know if this engine has those), replace chain ramps.

Injector o-rings
Mouse stashes under the shroud
Engine sound pad
Vacuum leaks with smoke test

Motor mounts. Might as well do the trans mounts too if they're original.

These are all great suggestions everyone! Thank you! The ones that appeal most to me are:

• Triangle of Death which was my initial reason for the drop in the first place.
• Lines replacements - vacuum lines, breather hose, fuel lines
• Upgrade to Turbo Chain Tensioners - been on the list and needs doing so may as well do now.
• Upgrade engine & tranny mounts to Rennline Tunables
• Possibly change engine mount cross bar if it needs it.
• Of course give the whole engine as much of a clean as possible!

I don't know much about the rocker shafts and RSR seals so I will read up on this and decide.

Some (very likely dumb) newbie questions I have are:

• Do I need to empty oil when doing a partial drop? I know it makes sense to do so and I likely will but was curious.
• When replacing all the fuel lines do I need to empty the fuel and if so what is the best way to do this?

Thanks again!

Thought I would post this here. A link to another PP member who is making CIS fuel lines for our 3.0's - looks like a great kit!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1022914-911-sc-3-0-fuel-line-kit-teflon-stainless-steel.html

This can be a very slippery slope. I would really recommend fully dropping the motor. All of this work can be done with a partial drop but far easier with the motor and trans removed. Not to mention the pain you will save on your back leaning into the engine bay. I dropped my motor for the first time 2 years ago and it was way easier than I thought. I removed the rear bumper and used 3 ton jack stands, a jack and engine dolly I made out of birch plywood with casters. I have a checklist I can email you and plans I made for the engine dolly if you decide to go down that path.

The only negative with dropping the motor is stuff tends to add up (project creep) I ended up blowing my budget because I figured I would do everything I could while the motor was out.

A few things to add to your list:

adj the valves if your removing valve covers anyway
tunnel lines but harder to do with motor installed (boxsterGT makes them)
engine pad

If you decide to remove motor:
check clutch
front and rear main seals
shift rod seal on trans
output shaft seal on trans
check oil cooler for leaks (I couldn't tell if oil was from triangle or cooler. It ended up being both)

Here is a link to my engine drop with lots of pics. Its a 930 motor but info should still help.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/980963-930-targa-engine-drop-upgrade-project.html

Scope creep:
valve rocker arm gap adjustments. fuel injector rebuild
look real hard around the both cam towers, especially rear o-rings

Your thread is FANTASTIC - thanks for sending Brian. Now I absolutely want to drop the engine and get to all of this. If you wouldn't mind sending me your list and plans that would be amazing! I'll PM you now.

Thanks so much again - this is going to be really helpful for me!!

Good choice to do a full drop. Stuff is much more accessible and that means less chance of goofs due to reaching, bad tool angles and all that. Lot easier to lean forward from a stool than to contort inside the engine bay. Plus, I found it to be a wrenching confidence builder.
Good luck and will be looking for documentation.
Scope creep, bah, it's only money:)

Dan, I built the engine dolly using baltic birch I had left over from another project. I wanted it big enough to support both the engine and trans. I added layers of baltic birch on the sides using wood glue and wood screws. You can make it taller depending on the casters and jack your using. The balance point for the motor/trans is just behind the exhaust crossover tube slightly behind the jack pad. I used left over blocks to shim areas between the dolly and engine to ensure the engine was supported on the dolly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690946.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg

One last pic to show engine and trans on dolly.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571691854.jpg

repair the case defect with JB weld, external easier in the car, unless you put engine on a stand after the drop. The internal (opposite side) needs to have the cooler pulled. I read the cooler rarely leaks but the case "defect" is another issue.

I had difficulty getting mine to work on the external one, hoping I got it after I pulled the engine where I could prevent the JB weld from coming off the case.

Do not attemp the RSR seals without pulling the engine!

If you have and older engine, and you think the cooler is leaking, it's likely the defect.

Engine drop..........
 

Dan,

I saw this thread on the day you posted it and refrained from making any comments or suggestions because for the kind of work you are planning to do, while a partial drop has been done by some people it is not as convenient when you have the motor sitting on an engine stand.

Now that you have come to realize to do a full engine drop, you will have more fun doing this job. This is a more efficient and better way to accomplish your goals. While it is not for everyone, I test run the motor before installing the engine. Why? With the motor installed on an engine test stand, you have better access to the engine parts. Fuel and vacuum tests are easy to do and fix if needed. It is not how hard you work but how smart you did the job.

Tony

Thanks so much everyone - I have been working long hours and returning to this thread for catch-ups now.
Huge thanks to Brian911T who sent me over his checklist and also the plans above for the dolly. And thank s to everyone else who has contributed. I definitely have the confidence now for a full drop with all your help and am excited to go this route. My biggest challenge is that my garage double as my photography studio so doing a full drop for a few weeks is not practical. So I am now looking for a garage to rent so that I can work in this over the winter months.

Thanks to you all and keep the suggestions coming! This info has been invaluable for me and is very gratefully received!

Cheers!!
dK

For my dolly I bought a $15 harbor freight furniture dolly and gave it a lift kit so my jack would fit under it. I've used it three times now.

Fuel Lines for SC
 

:)

I can help with your fuel lines both for the Chassis and CIS on the motor.

E-85 Rated and considered factory level or higher by most who know my products.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1572189904.jpg

Please email me as my pm box is almost always full.

Len.Cummings at verizon.net

:)

Thanks Len! Email sent. :)