weltmeister swaybars ?

[BYantzer]

Anyone have them and what do you think about them?
Thanks,
Brad

[IROC]

I don't have them myself, but my local track junkie friend does and he has had problems with the rear attachment to the spring plate/banana arm (the eccentric bolt replacement thing broke) and he has also had a problem with the front bar wallowing out the "arms" that attach to it.

I think they're decent, but IMHO, I'd spend a bit more and get some of the nicer ones out these days. Or.....do like I did and use later-model Carrera factory bars. They're not adjustable, but they are 22mm front and 21mm rear and seem to be very well balanced. At least on my car. And they're cheap. :>)

Mike

[tobluforu]

I think it depends on what you are using them for. I have them on my 72 for 6 yrs. and have had 0 problems w\them. But, I do not track my car. I have done many "nasa" events and some auto x. Lots of HARD street driving which I think would be the hardest them do to all the bumps and all. Smart racing and such make great bars, but you pay for them.

[steveW]

I got them. Real cool 22mm fully adjustables, but the bushes are shot so they're kinda noisy.

I've got them on full soft, with std torsion bars and there is nothing cooler than powering through a corner and feeling the inside front wheel pick up off the tar the the steering wheel twitch as it meets terra-firma again.

But the driver of the car you've just passed gives you one of those 'are you mad' looks.

Seriously, my car could do with a proper set up. Prior to the Weltmeisters, it only had a rear sway bar and used to oversteer like a pig, now its got a tad too much understeer.

Cheers

[RLJ]

I have there rear bars and they bind up on the trailing arms when the car is jacked up.

IMHO and that is all it is a humble opnion. There sales people are stupid or they dishonest. They will tell you something over the phone and then when you get there junk, it is not correct!

Some of their products are great, like Shewoods shift gate system, it is stuff that someone else has built, there is nothing that THEY have built and sell that I want.

I AM PI$$ED OFF AT PROFORMANCE PRODUCT.......PERIOD.

I will buy Porsche parts from Harbor Freight before I will buy ANYTHING from Preformance Products.

Randy Jones
1971 911


PS.......Hey, stick close to home what does and Wayne and crew offer?

[IMONBOOST]

I have both front and rear and they have served me well. I don't think there is such a thing as spend a bit more to get nicer ones because the next step is probably 450+ each sway bar. The latest carrera bars sound like a good option.

[jbailey930]

I have the 22's on the 930 for 3 years now (along with bigger t-bars). It took some time to adjust for neutral setup. I had a big under steer problem for a while. With everything dialed in, I feel secure with the 930 on boost in corners.

There is some noise from the fronts when you go over bumps. I couldn't figure out if I had a bad mount, or shock problem. Turns out the bushing was loose. YMMV

[RallyJon]

PS.......Hey, stick close to home what does and Wayne and crew offer?

Since you asked... Weltmeister.

[mike mueller]

I'd spend the extra few bucks and get Tarett Engineering Bars...

I've got them on my 914 and the quality is way better than the Welts, IMHO

I'm waiting for them to come out with 964 bars and I'll get those as well.

[HarryD]

I have a set 19 mm in the front and rear and they are ok.

I find their quality a bit lacking. When I was installing the eccentrics in the rear spring plate, one of the thread studs stripped. I brought it to my machine shop to get it turned down (it was Thurday and I had AutoX on Sunday) and rethreaded. They told me they tried but could not do it due a a bit of very hard metal imbedded in the pot metal used to cast the part. They thought it might have been a bit of a ball bearing. The good news was that they machined me a new eccentric bolt out of a decent piece of steel.

YMMV

As an aside...

To increase oversteer, which way do you move the sliders on the bars? For the front, is it more to the back? For the rears, is it more to the front?

[911pcars]

To increase oversteer, you decrease roll stiffness in front/increase roll stiffness in the rear. Thus:

Adjust the front sway bar arms so they're longer .... or

reduce the diameter of the front sway bar ....... or

disconnect the front bar (one end should suffice) ... and/or

adjust the rear sway bar ends so they're shorter ..... or

increase the diameter of the rear bar.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

[Chuck Moreland]

I have a set of used weltmeister sways that I don't need. If anyone's interested give me a call.

I've never used them, so I have no useful opinion. I bought them for my '77, then decided to leave the stock sway bars.

[MMARSH]

I had Welts on my 911 for several years and have tracked the car hard. I personally never broke a thing. I have since moved to the Smart Racing Bars because I wanted bigger bars and more adjustability. At about $1300 for the set, they are a huge price jump over the weltmeisters.

IMHO unless you are a serious track guy, the Welts will probably serve you just fine.

[HarryD]

Sherwood

To continue your help for a budding competitive driver, the problem I am seeing is that in AutoX, when I go to turn, there is a longer than desired delay between turning the wheel and the car turning. To remedy this, I think I want to increase oversteer tendency. Correct?

[911pcars]

Harryd,
Might be more of an issue of slip angles rather than basic chassis setup. What kind of tires are you on?

Sherwood

[HarryD]

Originally posted by 911pcars
Harryd,
Might be more of an issue of slip angles rather than basic chassis setup. What kind of tires are you on?

Sherwood

Sherwood,

I am on quite hard street tires (Toyo Proxes H4: treadwear = 400). To keep the sidewalls somewhat straight, I run 34 psi front, 37 psi rear. My normal street pressures are 5 psi less.

At this point, I am too cheap to go to a more competitive tire and prefer to flog my (more or less) stock vehicle. The car is still pretty high and will be lowered and corner balanced when my cash reserve permits.

I just started AutoX last year and I am very low on the learning curve. I am still figuring out that I can use the loud pedal more (coast less) and the no-go pedal with more vigor (start slowing down later).

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

[911pcars]

Unless we're on an unlimited racing budget, there's always going to be some trade offs - not optimum tires included.

You can try compensating, knowing there's going to be some lag time between steering input and car direction. As long as you know what's going to happen (or not, as the case may be), aka - no surprises, you'll be fine. You won't be fighting for TTOD, but you can then concentrate on being smooth without worrying about the latest go-fast equipment.

Have fun until lotto comes in,
Sherwood

[BYantzer]

Thanks everyone for your input. It is very needed. Got some loud noises and my wheel bearings are loose now after bar addition. strange.
Steering is not as tight. Xtra play instearing wheel. lotsa strange new stuff.... creaking bumps and thuds.

[HarryD]

Originally posted by 911pcars
Unless we're on an unlimited racing budget, there's always going to be some trade offs - not optimum tires included.

You can try compensating, knowing there's going to be some lag time between steering input and car direction. As long as you know what's going to happen (or not, as the case may be), aka - no surprises, you'll be fine. You won't be fighting for TTOD, but you can then concentrate on being smooth without worrying about the latest go-fast equipment.

Have fun until lotto comes in,
Sherwood

The reaction lag is pretty predictable most of the time but occasionally, I'll forget or be a bit too hot and voila' "Cones for Lunch!".

Right now my mission is to finish mid-pack. I am about 10-20% slower than the the leaders.

And it's not Lotto I need, just a steady job.