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carreradpt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
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Post Transmission fill plug

I have read different inquiries about changing the trans fluid and to be careful to ensure that the fill plug can be removed first before draining the fluid. What is the deal with the plug and what is the proper tool to remove it? (I have an 85 911)

Old 09-02-2001, 10:15 PM
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Drain plugs as well as filling plugs can get seized, esp. im Al- and Mg- blocks.
If you drain your fluid and later on you find out that the filling plug is stuck-you are stuck as well. No way to insert new tranny oil, no way to drive to a different workshop without oil.

Don't know the tool for the '85 though.

Jens
Old 09-02-2001, 11:01 PM
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Plugs on '87 911 are 10mm. The fill plug is a tight fit, so you'll want to have a 10mm allen with a short end.



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Dan Tolley
1987 911 Coupe
http://www.cheaterswayside.com/911/gallery.asp?sort=0&userid=294
Old 09-02-2001, 11:45 PM
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I am working on the same thing. although I could not find any specs on it, I assumed it was a metric car.. the 17mm fit my car fairly well, but after applying 110 lb feet of torque (with bar on L shaped key) it would not budge. the drain plug is loose and still in so that it not a problem. the last resort that I know of is to use a heavy chisel, grinding the edge so that it is not sharp and hitting the steel plug on the edge making a dent. THEN moving the tool to a 45 degree angle at the 5 o'clock position and striking the tool sharply with a 2 lb sledge hammer. this action will destroy the steel plug in short order if it does not break loose soon. This is where I am at now unless one of you posters have been there and done that. thanx
Old 09-03-2001, 03:10 AM
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These plugs have a tapered thread. There is no need to hire a gorrila to tighten them up.
Just moderate force will do the job, and insure you can get them out next time. I like to put a little "Never-Seez" on the threads for good measure.

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'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
The Blue Bomber's Website
Old 09-03-2001, 08:10 AM
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Take the car to the nearest "quick lube" oil change place and let them change the lube. Order Swepco gear lube from Pelican. Run the car for the week or so it takes the Swepco to come in. Then change to Swepco. Be sure and tell the guys at the "quick lube" not to muscle the fill plug back in.

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Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944
Old 09-03-2001, 08:56 AM
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Apply heat to the steel fill plug with an electric heat gun or propane torch, 30 second intervals between loosening attempts until the plug comes loose. Expansion difference between the steel plug and mag. case will easily break the adhesion.
Old 09-03-2001, 09:47 AM
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heat from bernzomatic for 3 sessions of 150 sec. did not work. steel plug now burred up. time now to drill and tap new 1/4" hole next to it and put in pipe plug?????
Old 09-04-2001, 06:14 AM
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RStoll:

What is the reason for running new gear oil in the tranny for a week prior to changing to Swepco? Thanks in advance.

Eric
83SC
Old 09-04-2001, 09:02 AM
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If you cant get the fill plug out with the trans in the car, there is an archive posting that recommends using a shift fork inspection cover higher up on the trans. for filling, until the next engine/trans drop, when you can really attack the plug out in the open with all available resources (impact wrench, arc welder, drill, chisel, etc.)
Old 09-04-2001, 09:19 AM
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Changed out the tranny fluid on my '80 targa for the first time this weekend. Could not get the drain plug out at all. Had to resort to using the access plate to drain out most of the fluid for now. I checked the fill plug first and could not get it to budge with the 17mm allen wrench. The wrench just rounded out the inside of the plug. Had to resort to a big vise grips and tapping with a hammer to know it loose. Roughed up the plug of course, but I got it out. Upon removing the access plate, I discovered why my shifter has been so loose. The fork attached to the plate was loose and had a couple grooves worn in it! Filed down the grooves for now and put some loctite on the threads. Will replace the fork next time I change the fluid. Made the shifter a lot tighter now that the fork is tightened. It was getting to the point that I could barely get it into gear. Is there a different type of plug that I can get, maybe one with a hex head on it?

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'80 Targa
Old 09-04-2001, 01:45 PM
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Eric, I ran some Havoline 80-90 for a couple weeks just to flush out the tranny. Not mandatory. Heck, if you know the guys at the quick lube they would probably be glad to loosen the plug for you.

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Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944
Old 09-04-2001, 01:51 PM
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I have hex heads on both my drain and fill plugs. My car was like this when I purchased it so I'm not much help on a source, but it is possible.

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Rob Fix
'78 SC Targa
Old 09-04-2001, 01:51 PM
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since it is my FILL plug that is seized, the access cover does me no good. the steel plug only protrudes about l/8" from case so not much there to use pipe wrench or vise grips. the reason this has happened to me and others is muscle. PO overtightened, now I have to deal with it. have oil in trans,don't know how much. there is some seepage from case and I would guess about a spoonful in the last 500 miles. also like others 18mm is to big. 17 mm only rounds off the inner edges of plug. thinking of drilling and tapping new hole. although the junk I put inside from this operation could be worse for me than the original problem. what to do. ?
Old 09-05-2001, 02:34 AM
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82sc, I think you are obliged to get heavy tooling now, like a left-hand-screw extractor (what was the correct word?). But i doubt that you have enough clearance without lowering the tranny

Jens
Old 09-05-2001, 04:09 AM
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I am now thinking of cutting off l-1/4 from L shaped 17mm key and WELDING it to the steel fill plug.then using two foot long breaker bar and socket to break loose. question is it possible to weld that close to case without blowing a hole through it. any welders out there. thanx
Old 09-06-2001, 01:43 AM
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I am now thinking of cutting off l-1/4 from L shaped 17mm key and WELDING it to the steel fill plug.then using two foot long breaker bar and socket to break loose. question is it possible to weld that close to case without blowing a hole through it. any welders out there. thanx
Old 09-06-2001, 01:44 AM
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I'm about to change the gearbox oil for the first time in my G50 this weekend with Mobil 1 or the Swepco I just received from Pelican.

For some reason, Bentley does not go into the G50, so I hope the picture above is a G50 because it looks fairly easy to reach both plugs.

After a nasty experience with removing hex bolts from the seat rails, I found that a set of 3/8" drive hex sockets worked where the L-shaped tools did not (no room for my T-handles in seating area). The L-handles just don't work for me on tight fasteners and stripped three of the heads. Luckily, Craftsman extractor set ($20) worked great.
---------------
Bob
'87 Carrera Coupe
Old 09-06-2001, 06:30 AM
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The only way I could get my fill plug off was to VERY SECURELY get the allen socket into the fill plug, jack the car about an inch above the jack stands(leave them in place), insert a third jack stand under the handle of the breaker bar, and lower the car onto the breaker bar/fill plug. Lower until the regular jack stands catch the car, then repeat if necessary. That fill plug almost supported the entire weight of the car before it started to give. It might not be the most conventional way to get a tough bolt, but it sure beat putting that kind of torque on things with me under the car.

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Brian Smith
'91 C2
Old 09-06-2001, 07:29 AM
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easy fix. just use the brass vent on top of transaxle (17mm) for your new fill plug, it is almost as easy. plenty of room up there on drivers side. just use 5/16 windshield wiper hose about 6" long attach it to l quart 75/90 with pointed end and physically squeeze bottle until you get about half in...then refill bottle til full...then squeeze again. after 6 trips up there (l/2 bottle at a time) you are done.

Old 09-09-2001, 12:50 AM
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