Yes!!!Another question about shift coupler adjustment
 

I have my 86 shifting better then i remember ever shifting. I've spent hours trying to get the coupler adjust perfectly which i think is pretty close.

My question is on the very fine adjustment, do i adjust the shift rod or the coupler?

When i put the shifter into 3rd to adjust i can not move the coupler, so all the adjustments have been to the shift rod. Is this correct?

Like i said I'm happy with the way it shifts now but feel like it could shift just that much better.

TIA for any and all advice..
Steve

I put a Wevo PSJ into a 911 last night.

1) I loosen the Wevo shifter's reverse lockout to give me room
2) I put the trans into a known gear, like say 3rd.
3) I mark the current location on all the original parts with a marker
4) Install the new coupler
5) Then I test how smoothly I get into each gear
6) I make minor adjustments on the shifter side (to the left and right of my original line), marking them with two other colors, then I decide where the shifting is smoothest.
7) Readjust the reverse lockout

Whole process is less than 30 min, hope that helps :)

Steve...would you mind giving some feedback on the Wevo and what makes it's 'better' than the stock setup? I've watched the vids and read the website...and I like the idea, but it seems a little...dunno...tough to 'buy' into. Especially at the price. I'm running a 915 tranny, BTW. Many thanks.

Sure

The PSJ coupler uses metal coupling instead of plastic bushings like the stock couple so it lasts much longer, and it's very precise. To give you an idea, the stock coupler I pulled out had 4mm of play in the worn bushings after only 8k miles.

The Wevo shifter is more interesting. It replaces the stock shifter and transforms the loose H pattern to a triple I pattern. 1st and 2nd are spring loaded to the left, the stick sits firmly in the middle on 3th and 4th, and 5th and reverse are spring loaded to the right with an adjustable reverse lockout. It goes into gear much smoother, and you can shift quickly without missing a gear or clipping reverse coming out of 5th.

They aren't cheap that's for sure, but it's 100% improvement. :)

This is one of those things that is easier to do in person than to try to explain in writing.

What I do is start with shifter in neutral. Loosen the shift linkage side.

I found this pic in an old post. Let's use this for reference.

http://up.picr.de/30480778ps.jpg

Referring to this diagram. If you rotate the coupler towards the passenger side and then push it towards the engine bay, that is 1st gear. In other words, it is a mirror image of the pattern as you're sitting in the driver's seat.

Move the shifter to first gear position. Tighten it down enough that it won't slide around. Now trying shifting to 2nd gear. Pull the coupler out to make sure 2nd is was fully engaged. Adjust the depth of the linkage side until 1-2 shift feels right. Tighten. Now try 3-4 shift. Then 5th and reverse separately. Adjust the depth as you go. You may have to adjust against with the car running to make sure you don't knick any gears. Fixing that will require side-to-side adjustment of the linkage.

Hope that helps.

Thank you very much. I think I'll ask Santa for a Wevo for Xmas.

dfhtrhjn n tirwin...thanks for your breakdown on the adjustment process...

So the shifting was pretty good...i stopped messing the the coupler...

Today i replaced the motor and trans mounts...stomski mounts..black(hardest) for the motor and red(medium hard) for the tranny....

Shifting definitely is more direct...

The only problem I'm having now is every now n then i nick going into 3rd gear...

Is this an adjustment issue?

Like i said all gear engage nicely..no grinding no hesitation...
Even 3-2 slots right in...

Again TIA
Steve

Yes, it is an adjustment issue. It’s the lateral adjustment, not fore/aft.

So in order to adjust i need to keep the shifter in neutral n turn the coupler like 1 spline, right or left?

Again thanks for your assistance..

Steve

Exactly.

Thanks tirwin....

Oh yea, that's an adjustment. I have the Rothsport solid engine and tranny mounts and all the Wevo stuff on my IROC clone, shifting is so crisp.

I was gonna do solid but kept reading it caused alot of vibration..
I mainly track my car but i do drive it on the street sometimes...
Right now I'm happy with the stomski mounts even though i mite put the hards in the trans..

Guess I'll spend alittle more time trying to get my coupler adjusted prefectly(it's really close)

Thanks again..
Steve

If you go with solid mounts on the trans you'll hear and feel more than most people are comfortable with. I have a lift and swap mine a couple times a year when I'm tired of the noise.

You could put solids on the engine and *probably* not notice extra noise if you're already on Stomski blacks. I went from stock to solid and boy was that eye opening.

Well...think I got the nick figured out..1 turn to the left of the coupler seemed to have fixed it..

As to the mounts...I should have gone solid with the motor but...

Think I'll see how it acts on the track n go from there..

Thanks again to both of you for holding my hand through this...Hahaha

Steve