Scott- yes, it will do it intermittently, especially when warm during spirited driving! I will confess to my knowledge of this- during my 1st year of ownership I thought that cable was the idle adjustment...what an idiot I was!!!! Anyway, I have lots of experience with adjustments of this and its' effect on my idle. You might as well eliminate this as a possible cause- it costs nothing and takes 2 minutes to do. Just adjust the cable clockwise until there is a 1/4"-1/2" of slack at the throttle and drive the hell out of the car--if the idle is better, you've fixed the problem for free! If not, my next step would be to adjust the REAL idle screw, which is just above the ICV that you replaced on a 3.2, usually covered by a yellow cap. Clockwise raises the idle. I think it is a 7mm long socket. After that, my guess is vacuum leaks, which are beyond my scope of knowledge.

hope this helps:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/pelifan.jpg


If you look above the idle control valve, you can see the yellow cap which covers the 7mm idle adj. screw


If you look to the left of the idle control valve, you can see a black cable ending at a black plastic adjustment nut (like a bicycle handbrake).

Voltage 0.2 to 0.8 CO mix
 

Steve:
I get no reading with a meter at to o2 plug, conected or not the idle is the same. Is that right? I put new o2 on and did the splice, solid conection, heat shrunk. Tried to tweek air flow screw but it is awful tight so I didn't move it. I think I'm running a bit rich, it smells that way.
Thanks in advance.
Still getting to know her before I buy your Chip.
Bob

Ugh i bother with this for 2 month. And after i took off AFM and cleaned it, sprayed all contacts with some contact spray the engine was idling as it should. Before i checked for vacum leaks, cleaned ICV and spent many hours watching engine ( im sure this didnt help) and even bothered with multi meter ( which i didnt even know how to use )
I also have S.Wong chip waiting to get into the car as soon as i get use to it.
Last thing i would do is adjusting mixture or idle speed.
Oh ya gotta check for click from idle switch

Make sure you are measuring off the black wire off the O2 sensor, disconnected from the car's harness. Also, make sure your DVM is set to read DC volts, and if not autoranging, set it to the 2 volt scale. The red lead of your meter should be on the O2 sensor's black wire, and the black lead should be any ground point of your motor such as your intake manifold. If you are getting 0 to almost no voltage, perhaps your mixture is lean. If your AFM mixture screw is tight, you should figure out why it's binding and fix it. Normally these screws are loose. It may be bottomed all the way clockwise, and if so, just try to remove it by turning it counterclockwise - it won't lock up in that direction. Then start with a base setting of turning the screw full clockwise into the meter, and backing it out 1.5 turns, and analyze your sensor voltage.

The meter has
DCV 2.5, 50, 250,1000
DCmA 10, 250
Conected the
red to male pin on 02 lead (black wire) that goes to sensor not dme.
blk to ground.
no readings.
if the AFM screw is all the way in, would this create the need to open the idle bypass screw on the throttle body more then normal to off set lean air flow setting to get idle solid? if so that's where I think I am, the idle cold start goes to 1200 then down to 500/600 for awile till temp gets up, then it sits pretty good at 750/825.
At idle it seem the fumes are eye burning, more at cold start and strong after fully warm.
What do you think?

It sounds like it's very rich - the eye burning is the high HC component of a rich mixture. If such a case, the O2 sensor should be reading over 0.8 volts dc. If you get no reading, either your sensor is defective, or your meter is not working properly. It's best to diagnose and fix the simple problems first - in this case getting a signal from the O2 sensor, then adjusting your mixture. To lean out the mixture, turn your mixture screw counterclockwise out to allow more air to bypass the sensor's flapper door. Note, turning the screw all the way in does not lean the mixture, it richens it, which typically increases the idle speed. The only reason you readjust the base idle speed on the throttle body, after adjusting the idle mixture, is to get the base idle speed within the range that the idle control valve can control it under. Out of it's expected range, it will cause an oscillating hunt or if set too low, sub idle dipping.

I ajusted the air by-pass screw to match idle after jumping ISV. That brought my idle up and more solid then before always around 500 and hunting up to 650. It seems to be soild now as said in prior post.
This is the reading from my emissions back in August.
Readings / Limits State of MA. 87 3.2l 177,000 mi.
grams per mile
HC 1.89/2.00
CO 15.58/30.00
Nox 2.56/3.00
Co2 411.15/ N/A
I have no hesitation when warm, seems a bit fickel when cold first 15min.
My conserns are if I am running fat am I deluting oil on cylinder wall causing hot head temps and consuming oil in the combustion chambers. No blue smoke when running, just the puff after a couple of days sitting.
The new o2 sensor could be faulty, but that dosen't seem right. My meter dosen't have a setting on the dial below 2.5 DCV so maybe that why it can't read 0.2 to even 2
Thanks for working with me here.

The other thing if i unplug o2 while running at idle no change, does that mean i'm at the 14.72 mark or abit higher if the o2 is good?

The 2.5 v dc should work fine at measuring anything below 2.5 volts. You can use something like a 1.5 volt battery to check it. If the O2 is connected, there may be a discernable 50 rpm hunt of the idle while the O2 sensor is modulating the mixture back and forth around the stochiometric ratio. If you're getting no difference connected or disconnected, either your sensor is not working, the DME is not recognizing the sensor, or you really do have the idle mixture closely adjusted to 14.72. Are you sure you spliced the connector to the sensor correctly? There are three wires from the sensor, two white, and one black. The two white are for 12 volts to preheat the sensor when it is cold. Only the black one puts out a voltage signal.

The whites might be fliped, black to black.

Just checked the meter w/ battery it works.

You can try blowing unlit propane into the intake and see if the sensor goes rich while the car is running, or safer yet, remove the sensor from your exhaust, and blow the propane gas over the tip and see if it induces a rich voltage.

When I tested idle with meter on I also increased the rpm to see if that would give me a reading on meter, Nothing!

Would increasing rpm up and down show some activity on the meter?
I still have my old o2 i'll check that one w/ the propane and see what goes on, if I get a reading then i'll check the new one.

Might not be till next week.
Thanks again for your help.

Just checked old o2, + on black wire - on threaded out side of sensor. no reading with propane. heated sensor tip and threaded area with propane pretty hot then raw propane no reading.
Couldn't wait.

You should get a reading of 0.6 volts or higher with tip hot, moving the flame back an forth should show fluctuation swings. Sounds like your meter doesn't have enough resolution to read under 1 volt.

Re-tested old sensor off car, heated it up pretty hot with torch got reading near .5 pulled flame away and she droped, passed heat over she would rise. Looks like I could of left old on.
Now as far as the one thats on the car, with the 12v heat leads disconected maybe the sensor just doesn't have the temp to get a reading.
I tested after a hour drive, the out side air temp was about 48 degrees, running at idle. Is it advisable to put jumpers between leads so 12v are heating sensor then test off the black wire?
Would HC and NOx be high if running to lean?
my readings
HC 1.8/2.oo limit
NOx2.56/3.00 limit
I think I saw a post that said NOx is related to high head temps.
Whats your thoughts?
Thanks

question about the o2 sensor and it's wires
there is a 3 prong plug coming from the o2 sensor,
is that were i check the voltage from?

Sub'd