Throttle linkage question please

[wareaglescott]

Car is a 79 SC

When I was dropping the motor I missed the throttle linkage hookup and still had it connected and gave it quite a tug. Concerned I damaged my throttle linkage and wondering if I need to replace it.

When I look at the manual illustration 702-10 pictured below:



It appears part number 16 is referenced for the SC and has a bend in it. Part number
911 423 043 00. In the below picture mine has a bend but I have no idea if I induced my bend when I was trying to drop the motor or if it is supposed to look like that?



Questions:
1. Is mine supposed to look like this or is it damaged?
2. Is there any difficulty replacing this item if needed? Yanking stuff out of the tunnel makes me nervous about getting it all back in there correctly.

Thanks

[3rd_gear_Ted]

The actuator rod is bent, the concern with straightening is how it will interact with the support bushing (11). Ya don't want a sticking throttle going forward.

[911pcars]

Find another illustration or photo of those parts for a more accurate picture of its orientation. Their installed axis is different from the illustration.

But yes. It's bent. Fortunately, it can be unbent. Wait until the engine and trans. are reunited so you can ID the throttle linkage beginning and end targets.

Sherwood

[wareaglescott]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

Find another illustration or photo of those parts for a more accurate picture of its orientation. Their installed axis is different from the illustration.

But yes. It's bent. Fortunately, it can be unbent. Wait until the engine and trans. are reunited so you can ID the throttle linkage beginning and end targets.

Sherwood

Yes I am not understanding that illustration. I guess it is because there were different parts available. I seem to have #9 on my part #16 which it does not show.

Anyone know how hard it is to replace this linkage within the tunnel? How hard is it to get it through the parts #11? If I pull the old one out are those just going to be stuck in the tunnel?

Anything that anyone has to offer on this topic is appreciated.

[911pcars]

Why replace the throttle linkage (pedal to end of tunnel). Is it damaged?

If so, the throttle mechanism must share space with other cables, rods and lines containing brake fluid and fuel. Make sure the replacement part routes through the same path from which it came.
You can tie a long string to the tail end as you pull the old part out, then reattach to the tail of the replacement piece. To reinstall whatever it is, pull it in with the string in the reverse direction.

Take a look in that gigantic reference manual called the internet. There are illustrations as well as photos you can use as reference. Begin with a search in the PParts archives. You also have most of these pieces laying dormant in your car, yes?

S

[wareaglescott]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

Take a look in that gigantic reference manual called the internet. There are illustrations as well as photos you can use as reference. Begin with a search in the PParts archives. You also have most of these pieces laying dormant in your car, yes?

S

Well seeing that I can barely see inside the tunnel when looking right into it from the end I am not expecting to find many great pictures on your referenced gigantic manual. I posted the illustration I found and asked for help. Thanks for the super helpful tip though.

[jpnovak]

the rod is completely straight all the way from the pedal bellcrank to the transmission bellcrank. Just straighten and reinstall.

There are 3 plastic support bushings that hold he rod and allow it to have F/R slide motion. They are held in place with fold over tabs welded inside the tunnel. replace these if yours are broken or cracked. They are changeable by feel. One forward of rear access. One in middle of parking brake access and the other in the shifter console access. Yes, it all has to come out to change bushings. Hardest one is the parking brake and associated rear cables.

[wareaglescott]

Great info. Thank you.

[mike sampsel]

I messed up my throttle linkage pulling my engine. It flops around and might cause my shaky starts from stop. Took a video of inside my tunnel from front of transmission which shows unwanted slop.

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

the rod is completely straight all the way from the pedal bellcrank to the transmission bellcrank. Just straighten and reinstall.

There are 3 plastic support bushings that hold he rod and allow it to have F/R slide motion. They are held in place with fold over tabs welded inside the tunnel. replace these if yours are broken or cracked. They are changeable by feel. One forward of rear access. One in middle of parking brake access and the other in the shifter console access. Yes, it all has to come out to change bushings. Hardest one is the parking brake and associated rear cables.

I am confused a bit maybe you can help me understand:

You said the three support bushings are changeable by feel (and I see they have a cut in them).

Then you say it all has to come out to change bushings? Seems to be different than the change by feel statement?

[911pcars]

Here are some photos I dug up from my computer (not mine):

Rear of tunnel with callouts:


Tunnel upside down; forward end on right:


Tunnel upside down; forward end is to the left:


There may be model year (MY) differences.

S

[wareaglescott]

Thank you very much for the pictures

[mike sampsel]

I did not disconnect my throttle link from the bell housing for my engine pull. Lesson learned. I bent the ear on my bell housing, but my throttle linkage looks fairly straight. I’ve a picture of one of my bushings near the tranny/shift lever access hole. Pretty sure my tugging did it no favors. Also looks like I might easily replace this one with rod in SITU.

These scope cameras are great!

Can’t see the next bushing near the shifter/e-Brake. It’s more involved as the seat needs to be removed. Since my rod does not appear bent, I’m going to replace my bushings (well at least one or more). With the rod in SITU.

Here is a pic of the same bushing from the engine compartment through the tunnel.

[patkeefe]

That illustration in post #1 is not an SC (at least I do not recognize it).

EDIT:
After staring at it for awhile, it is an SC. But, the #16 rod is straight. The #12 is a bell crank attached to the transmission, I believe? So, if you didn't snap #12 off the transmission or #16 off the engine bell crank (which is not pictured), you should be OK. Essentially, what Jamie said...

[911pcars]

Upon second glance, I mistook the tunnel link for the throttle rod from gearbox to engine.

It looks like the drivetrain drop pulled the complete throttle linkage out of the tunnel then bent it as shown. Is it currently in the location as shown or have you separated it from the tunnel?

If it was pulled out during the engine drop, it may or may not be salvageable. Remove the carpeting next to the throttle pedal and take a peek into the tunnel and shoot a pic of the throttle linkage (or what’s left of it). The forward end of the throttle cable normally attaches onto the pedal linkage via a metal clip. It’s presence or condition will provide more information.

Sherwood

[wareaglescott]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

Upon second glance, I mistook the tunnel link for the throttle rod from gearbox to engine.

It looks like the drivetrain drop pulled the complete throttle linkage out of the tunnel then bent it as shown. Is it currently in the location as shown or have you separated it from the tunnel?

If it was pulled out during the engine drop, it may or may not be salvageable. Remove the carpeting next to the throttle pedal and take a peek into the tunnel and shoot a pic of the throttle linkage (or what’s left of it). The forward end of the throttle cable normally attaches onto the pedal linkage via a metal clip. It’s presence or condition will provide more information.

Sherwood

The interior is gutted and the pedals are removed so it is not attached to anything at the front currently. I can slide it fore and aft so it may be sticking out of the tunnel further than normal. I can pull it back more but have been afraid to do so because I was afraid of difficulty getting it back in if I pulled it to far aft.

[911pcars]

Ok. Sounds like it was just bent at that one spot. It appears (please confirm) the linkage goes through a tube for a bit at the front end and exits near the shift housing opening. From there, it continues visibly to the end of the tunnel. Again, confirm. When reinstalling, make sure to re-route it into the correct tube without tangling with other cables and tubes.