How much play is required in shift coupler bushings?

[Fairview]

In rebuilding the shift coupler in my 84 911, it seems the coupler bushings that come in a kit I purchased are a bit too large to slip into the coupler without being heated up a bit and pressed in with a vise. That in turn makes the inner diameter too small.

I have reamed out the bushings ever so slightly, but the pin is still quite snug. I can move the pivot piece by hand but it sure isn’t easy. Do I need to ream it out more? I just can’t determine in my research how much play is required, if any.

Thanks, Jeff

[walt]

I did mine a few months back, recall it being fairly snug fit. You don't want much play, if any.

[bkreigsr]

The three stakes on the outside of the pin were put there at the factory. Don't mess with them - they hold the pin snugly in the u-jount.
Don't be an idiot like me and file the stakes off. Could have disastrous results at an inopportune time. see pic
If you feel you need more slop in your coupler, adjust the plastic/bronze bushings, not the coupler itself.

Most of the replacement bushings have a slightly oblong opening allowing the coupler some forward/rear wiggle room. You can't appreciate this until the pin is fully seated.

FWIW, The Stromski and WEVO couplers are metal-to-metal and have almost zero wiggle room.
Bill K

[dicklague]

You want no play. I have one in my stock that I rebushed and it is really stiff. NO PLAY

I installed a Wevo 10 years ago and love it. OEM is junk my comparison.

[AG81]

Originally Posted by dicklague

I installed a Wevo 10 years ago and love it. OEM is junk my comparison.

^
Yeah I totally agree with this comment.

[john walker's workshop]

They don't pivot, so no play needed. I like the black bushings with a round hole, unlike the factory ones with an oval hole and slop. You can't tell the difference between a wevo and a round hole bushed factory coupler, other than looks and price.