New to me 1983 911 w/ 3.4

[Jd21476]

As I have posted in my other posts, my father passed away and left me his 1983 Porsche 911 Cabrio with a slantnose conversion. It has receipts with it showing that it had a 3.4L engine installed but I dont know the year.

It is running rough and I would like to do new plugs, wires, rotors and cap. I just ordered some Clewett wires but I dont know what cap and rotor to order. I know I can pull the cap and rotor and then cross reference the part number but I am out of town for the week and would like to order them now so they arrive this weekend for install.

Are all caps and rotors the same for the 3.4 motor even if I dont know the year?

[Travis Neff]

Looks like a standard 3.2 1984-1989 distributor cap & Rotor. I think that engine was a 3.2 and had larger pistons & cylinders to make it into a 3.4

[Jd21476]

That could be it. I know very little about the car at this time. BUT you think if I order a Bosch cap and rotor for a 1984 3.2 it should fit?

[darrin]

one of the biggest mistakes new owners of vintage 911s make is to start throwing parts at a problem hoping it will go away. Strongly recommend that you start by taking your car to one of the shops recommended on your prior thread and let the shop get your car sorted out. e.g. Plug wires are generally not a problem in these engines and can easily be ruled out by spraying them with a generous mist of water at night and looking for arching while the engine's running in the dark.

While it may be pricy to get a shop to sort this out, you will likely come out ahead by leveraging their aircooled-specific expertise and experience. Then, once sorted out, you can transition back to performing your own maintenance

[evan9eleven]

Others can assist better with your questions, but I’m just sorry to hear about your dad. I’m glad you got his Porsche anyway, and can hopefully carry on some good memories.

[sugarwood]

https://www.fourwheeler.com/product-reviews/129-0207-jacobs-electronics-omni-ignitions/

[Jd21476]

From the article it sounds like it is or was a good system but if it breaks then its not worth fixing.

[darrin]

agree -- if new wires/cap/rotor don't resolve your rough running issue, it's going to be challenging to determine whether this box is a contributor to your problem -- fingers crossed

[TRE Cup]

How long had the car sat before you started the engine? Most likely one,or more, of the injectors- is plugged up.
Start the car up then pull one injector connector plug off one at a time. If there is a change in running then that injector is working. If no change then it isn't
Do each one and note which don't change the idle. Next get a pair of wires to connect the exposed connectors on the non working injector. Not easy to do as the little silver connections in the injector plugs are close to each other. After you are SURE they are not touching each other place one of the wire leads to ground. The other wire lead gets a short moment touch to the 12 volt positive on your rear fuse board. You are "tickling " the normally lower voltage with a full q2 volts. You will here a clack from the injector with each pulse when you touch the 12 volts.that MIGHT free up the pintle in the injector

[TRE Cup]

IF you are careful that the test leads in the injector are not going to touch each other then start the again without the oe plug on the faulty injector. Tickle it again with 12 volts. It just might clean up and start working again

[sugarwood]

Is there a video of the procedure TRE Cup is describing?