I use an IAC from a Porsche 993, but I have also used one off of a mid 90s Saab 900.

They control idle just fine

With the ITBs you'll have to figure out how to plumb the idle control motor to make it work. Not very familiar with the setup though. For the valve itself you can use a lot of different ones. I had a saab one from the junkyard that worked great until I swapped in the carrera manifold, then I used the carrera valve. Also works great.

I would still recommend going with the ms3pro if you ever plan to go sequential (you should). If you decide to go with microsquirt let me know as I have one in stock at the moment and can make you a deal.

my advice is if you plan on going with ITB just understand it makes your life tuning the motor much much more complex, and my advice is if you want to save on the ecu to do the microsquirt find and use a 3.2 manifold

Hey Josh,

You may be past this point but I also had some of the same questions when it came down to ECU choice. I wanted to run COP rather than other ignition options out there.

If you want to run Audi/VW coils, get the 1.8t coils, they're a bit shorter than the R8 coils and fit in the Porsche valve covers well.

The MS2/Microsquirt can run Wasted Spark COP but they're internally setup to only run in "Going Low" mode which means that the coils fire when they see 0 volts at your crank trigger rather than the preferred method of "Going High" which means they fire when they see 5 Volts (or whatever the signal voltage is). This means that the coils might fire as soon as you turn the key to turn your car on. The Megasquirt manual says that the preference is always to have this setting as "Going High" and the MS2 can't do that unless you change some of the internals with an expansion board. Since the Microsquirt is the same as the MS2, I made the assumption that it operated the same. It's for that reason that I ditched the MS2 and went with an MS3, in my case the MS3 Pro Ultimate since that's what I found a deal on locally. The MS3 can run on either ignition mode and also has the ability to natively run sequential.

My car is wired up to run sequential ignition and injection but I have it currently running semi sequential wasted COP because I think I made a mistake in wiring the Cam hall sensor that I don't feel like fixing yet. I just say that so you know the car can run/drive that way.

In terms of Crank/Cam trigger, if I were to do it all over again I'd just buy the setup from Clewett and be done with it rather than piecing things together through the classifieds. I currently have his cam sensor, VR crank sensor, crank sensor bracket, distributor plug, and a GSF 36-1 trigger wheel. That's not what I started with but as I had issues along the way I just bought stuff from him because he's 20 minutes away and I can pick it up the same day. I ended up driving down there three times over the last few months because I thought I could get away with cheaper stuff. Richard is also really helpful with setup and questions when it came down to the nitty gritty.

Hope that's helpful and I'm not too late!