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Adding rust inhibitor and cleaning rusty bits or surface corrosion?
Normally I wire brush, and add a little rust inhibit oil you get in a spay to my other cars.
Since I’ve gotten my 911 I’ve learned a lot of better practices on here. Looking at free little projects while stuck at home, I’d like to de rust some piece on the car. What’s the best way of going about this? My little brass Dremel, a stuff pad manly, abrasive? This sorta biz. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586287952.jpg |
I like to sandblast and powder coat or paint with some good 2K paint
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No sand blaster and on the car. Want to drive it. One day for sure. But I’m going for the preventive mtc right now.
Cleaning it and inspecting. She’s still new to me. I am thrilled in these tones to “ get groceries “ . Any excuse to drive. |
remove the loose stuff, wire brush, scotch brite etc
Then apply a rust converter. Look at the ingredients make sure it says phosphoric acid. This will convert the iron oxide into something else, can't remember what. Anyway it will stop the rusting process and provide a suitable surface for paint, CLP etc Something like this https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Remover |
Quote:
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either works
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CRFYG0/ref=twister_B07Y5XZJFX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Corroseal rust converter |
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be careful with some of those rust converter primer base coats, I was going to use a product from loctite for some hard to reach areas in an old F100 drip rail I was working on but the product said you could only top coat with an oil based paint, I may just wire brush it then spray it with rustoleum
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Me, I would be most worried about that spring. Corrosion could cause it to break, so I would source a replacement. The rest could be wire brushed and sprayed with some time of preservative such as Kroil.
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Wire brushing is aggressive and can remove galvanizing. If you do wire brush consider spraying 95% zinc rich paint instead of or in conjunction with using rust converters. You can paint over it.
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