A/C clutch smoking after adding freon

[jwakil]

My AC had been rather week for last several weeks, so I figured the 134 was a little low. I tried adding a can of Freon with one of those generic filler valves that has the gauge. since the guage fluctuated as I was putting the Freon in I couldn't really tell what the static pressure was, it would get higher than recommended as I opened more and get lower as I closed it. Anyway, after going to see if it was blowing any cooler (which it wasn't), I noted the compressor wasn't turning and could see smoke coming out of the clutch/compressor interface. Could this mean I over charged it, or was the clutch going out anyway? It doesn't engage now and no AC Before at least I was getting semicool air. I can't even tell if I added any freon, since the 12 ounce can feels about the same as before. Maybe 5 ounce at most added.

[Peter M]

I think you hydraulically locked the compressor with liquid refrigerant by adding too much too quickly.

Reattach the pressure gauge to confirm the static pressure is in the acceptable range and then try turning the compressor hub over by hand. I would expect with a little time the liquid will have dissipated and the compressor should be now free. If so, start the engine and turn on the AC to see if the clutch functions OK along with the AC.

If the clutch won't engage, this could be caused by the pressure switch cutout, blown fuse or failed clutch coil. You would first check you are getting power at the clutch coil and then work your way through to identify where the problem is.

The clutch itself is a steel on steel plates so don't really fail. I have found Century Auto Air in Arizona great for compressor parts and have very good DIY Youtube videos.

To recharge a system properly you really need to evacuate the system, draw down a vacuum, check it holds a vacuum and add refrigerant by weight and confirm all is OK by having a high and low gauge set.

[donbecker1234]

For $60 you can get an HF A/C Gauge set: https://www.harborfreight.com/AC-R134A-Manifold-Gauge-Set-62707.html

There are quite a few things on the A/C system that cost more.

[HaroldMHedge]

Don't get a Harbor Freight gauge set. I had nothing but trouble with it. Gauges failure as soon as the sytem was pressurized but even worse they leaked under vacuum.

Go with a named brand 4 hose set.

[jwakil]

Originally Posted by HaroldMHedge

Don't get a Harbor Freight gauge set. I had nothing but trouble with it. Gauges failure as soon as the sytem was pressurized but even worse they leaked under vacuum.

Go with a named brand 4 hose set.

What’s a good brand? Seems lots of choices under $50, but want quality as well.

[HaroldMHedge]

I ended up getting a JB Industries Zeppelin 4 valve manifold with Kobra hoses and isolation valves. This setup was about $250, if I remember correctly.

[dicklague]

Originally Posted by HaroldMHedge

Don't get a Harbor Freight gauge set. I had nothing but trouble with it. Gauges failure as soon as the sytem was pressurized but even worse they leaked under vacuum.

Go with a named brand 4 hose set.

my Harbor Freight gauges have worked great for the last 5 years. they are good.

[uwanna]

Have had NO problems with my Harbor Freight gauges in 4+ years either.

[David Inc.]

Sometimes auto parts stores will rent out the gauges as well.

[T77911S]

could be
bad compressor
too much refrigerant- flooding compressor
bad TXV valve- again, flooding the compressor with liquid.

I would pull all the refrigerant out
maybe try to turn compressor by hand
put a can back in
if your low side is too high after first can then you have a bad TXV valve
if you don't build any pressure it could be a bad compressor.
either way, if you pull the compressor replace the TXV valve

[john walker's workshop]

Engine lid open, no air passing through the condenser, system overheats, pump locks up?