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Clutch engages just off the floor
Finished refurbishing the pedal cluster with new bronze bushings, clevis and pin.
Pulled the clutch cable and lubed it. Prior to removing the clevis I counted the number of turns (18 full turns) so I could put the new one on the same exact amount of turns. I also took a photo of the 15mm cable adjust nuts so I could put them back as close as possible when I reassembled. Adjusted the 1.2mm and 1.0mm gaps as shown in the 101 Projects book. Long story short my clutch pedal is now about an inch lower (towards the front of the car) than the brake pedal. I am OK with that but would raise it some if it was easy to do. A bigger problem is that the clutch now engages immediately as the pedal comes of the floor. I mean it starts to engage at about 1/8 inch of pedal movement. Other than that it shifts smoothly. I will recheck the 1.2/1.0mm gaps tomorrow. Which adjustment will raise the pedal shift point say halfway through the pedal travel? Thanks |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Palm Coast FL
Posts: 1,194
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I did mine about a year ago so trying to remember. You should be able to adjust either the brake or clutch pedal so that they are even across. My clutch also engages immediately as I start to lift. Maybe this is normal as everything is new and not worn out. Anyway I prefer this as to my 944 which engages at the last 1/8 of an inch with no adjustment.
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78 911 st backdate 87 944 00 996 |
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Clutch cable adjustment........
Quote:
Funracer, Did you check and measure the total distance traveled by the clutch cable at the transmission end? Approx. total travel 25.4 mm or 1”. There are two (2) locations where you could make the adjustments to bring the clutch pedal up: (1). Clutch cable adjustment nut at the transmission. (2). Adjustment nut at the clevis end at the tunnel. Tony |
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Happily got it done today. Started over and redid the 1.2mm and 1.0mm gaps. The difference maker I believe was turning the clevis in about three full turns which seems to have done the trick.
Interestingly I had an idea that actually worked and I have not read about on here. Instead of actually turning the clevis I loosened the clevis jamb nut, disconnected the cable from the transmission and grabbed the loop end and turned it. I had lubed the cable really well earlier and I was able to turn it three times with my bare hand. When I went back to the pedals the jamb nut was now up against the clevis so I know it worked. Much easier than unclipping the clevis for me. Not sure how well this would work if your cable was gunned up but it is so much easier it may be worth a try. Thanks again Tony and all for the help. Car shifts so nicely now. |
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Forgot to mention I did measure the cable movement and it was 25mm exactly.
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