Carrera Suspension Update

NoLift911 · 03-31-2010, 10:40 AM

Well after taking all the weight out of my car and not intending (at least not this year) to participate in the Targa Newfoundland or the Dakar - it needs to come down...way down. This was a bone stock 84 at US ride height so you can see what happens when you take everything out but the steering wheel.

So in terms of a refresh I ordered from Chuck at ER and escaped with my wallet somewhat intact. The more you talk to Chuck the more you spend so I stopped talking and made out with what is below:

22/29 PP Hollow Bars
Rear Quick Change ASP's
Rubber OE bushings all around
Bump Steer Kit

Car already has Bilstein Sports front and rear, RUF sways 22/23

I should be able to bring it back down to earth...shooting for 25.5/25 Will post pics along the way for those wanting to do the same...

Pics of the Rally car below....

Pazuzu · 03-31-2010, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nolift911

This was a bone stock 84 at US ride height so you can see what happens when you take everything out but the steering wheel.

Oh come on, you still have a giant tail! and rocker panels! and a rear valence! You probably didn't even shave the headlight knob or anything!

It's amazing how high that went!

NoLift911 · 03-31-2010, 10:56 AM

True, true. I was going for the clubsport look, which I am a fan of. If I lost all that stuff I would have done a backdate...maybe one day. It's the stuff you can't see that raises the car up once its gone.

My roll bar is being powdercoated and I need to put the front bumper blade on but other than that - everything else is gone. So that is the only other weight to go in the car.

Once everything is hung on the car I am interested to see what it weighs when I corner balance...

Canada Kev · 03-31-2010, 11:29 AM

I don't think it's normal to remove glass to save weight. You seem to be missing some on the driver's side...

NoLift911 · 03-31-2010, 11:32 AM

yup - was doing some experimenting with venting on the quarters - there is no HVAC in the car - at all.

Also need those out for welding in the cage to the b-pillars.

NoLift911 · 08-23-2010, 09:18 AM

Wow - 5 months since my first update - 3 little boys take all of my time but I did manage to make some decent progress - mostly time to put it all back together now...

Here is the 911 hover-craft as it sits now -

Of course you have to clean things while you are "in there"

And it does come pretty clean - I will be doing the whole underneath like this while I have everything apart.

NoLift911 · 08-23-2010, 09:32 AM

A few more of stuff back from the powder-coater...

My 28 row cooler back from Pacific Coolers (can highly recommend)

The sways are RUF 22/23 which were RUF green - now black (the Billie green and the RUF green looked funny together)

So the plan is to get the front back together (got the bumper on this weekend) valence (oem clubsport) and chin spoiler - then get all of the cooling back together and work towards the back with the new parts -

So hopefully this:

Will soon look like the pics of the front.

Will post more as I go as I am sure I will have questions along the way -

kodioneill · kodioneill's Garage

Nice job!! You just gotta love these beautiful cars. What method and materials did you use to clean the fender wells?

ShakinJoe · 08-23-2010, 11:34 AM

P-Dawger,

I had the same problem! See my thread for specific weights on items. Final spreadsheet is forthcoming.

438 lbs gone in 5 days - My Build Story
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NoLift911 · 08-23-2010, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kodioneill

Nice job!! You just gotta love these beautiful cars. What method and materials did you use to clean the fender wells?

Might be easier to start with what materials and methods I DID NOT employ to clean the fender wells - as most know everyone has their favorite potions, cocktails and tricks.

I think in the end - Castrol Purple would get the nod for cleaning and not removing paint.

That said there is no magic - lots of beer, good tunes and patience - is the best mixture.

There is a little bit of rattle can action also as I had to plug A/C holes, antenna holes, brake pad wear sensor holes and many other holes which also took time. I just just patch panels and the mig on the big ones and Wurth seam sealer with some rattle can mathed to my paint and it looks ok - for fender wells.

NoLift911 · 08-23-2010, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShakinJoe

P-Dawger,

I had the same problem! See my thread for specific weights on items. Final spreadsheet is forthcoming.

438 lbs gone in 5 days - My Build Story
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I would suggest that your parts are a bit more "exotic" than mine

Looks like you are going to have a sweet setup when done also.

ShakinJoe · 08-23-2010, 12:12 PM

P Dawger,

I started removing weight and it just got to this point. The reason for some of my parts is that my speeds started increasing due to the weight and my skills increasing. I just felt better about putting good stuff under the car that holds the tires to the road.

Thanks I and I hope it will be a good set-up.....

NoLift911 · 08-24-2010, 06:19 AM

Front bumper on, valence, chin spoiler and oil cooling next - then suspension (what I started on in the first place

)

Mind the gap...

Hole filled for A/C (A/C creates lots of holes to fill, all over the car)

Sorry for the bad pics - pretty sure it's the operator and not the camera

Anyway progress is being made...slowly but surely.

NoLift911 · 04:13 PM

Okay - little bit more progress, I know I know slow go...but it is tough to find the time as with everyone else. So I got the oil lines and cooler back on, sheared off the ears on my banana arms for the big brake mounts. I wanted to get a status on the way the lines are run - to be sure they are correct before I tighten everything up for good and add the last brackets. Need to set spring plate angle and then move to the front. I guess as it goes when you disassemble things (5 years ago) and then go to put back together you are either missing some stuff or planned on getting some new stuff. Trying to figure out some good bolt corrosion protection besides powdercoating or plating (pia). I can clean the bolts up real good with a wire brush but then they need protection. Also took the time to clean wheel wells and the underbody, lots of citrus orange for that.

Anyway here are some pics - let me know what you think and if those lines look correct...

Short hose on the outter, longer hose on the inner?

The oil line with kink in it for the jack hole on the outside?

NoLift911 · 11-06-2010, 08:26 AM

more...

NoLift911 · 11-06-2010, 10:35 AM

The bolt hole for the rotor set screw does not match up with the rotor? Guess I will have to drill and tap one to fit? How important is the set screw?

Chuck Moreland · 11-06-2010, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P-Dawger

The bolt hole for the rotor set screw does not match up with the rotor? Guess I will have to drill and tap one to fit? How important is the set screw?

You need to take the rotor off and rotate it. You are just in the wrong position on the wheel studs

Great looking pictures!

NoLift911 · 11-06-2010, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck Moreland

You need to take the rotor off and rotate it. You are just in the wrong position on the wheel studs

Great looking pictures!

Yeah I thought so too but no amount of indexing gets them to line up...each position is off a little bit.

Thanks - trying to get all those parts installed you sent me!! On the spring plates is it ok to leave that rubber cap on the plates to protect them? Does it need a tie wrap or will it stay on all by itself? I wouldn't say it is sloppy but it is pretty easy to slide off.

Chuck Moreland · 11-06-2010, 12:20 PM

The caps should be left on to keep the splines clean and dress up the appearance. They should stay on by themselves.

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

LOL

After all you have been through, defeated by a brake rotor. I find that funny.

Seriously, great job on concorsing your car. We should all strive to achieve this level of Restoration. Those screws only hold all the parts together when the wheel is off, not a critical part. Also, why did you go with the 28 row cooler vice the Carrera cooler? It does look great.