I follow. I’ll just drive the car for now, while I learn about all this ( I have the jumper info ), and I’ll wait till it warms up. It will be 20c here soon.

I love the help on here. Really appreciate everyone.

d +1 Also, the throttle valve has an adjustable stop that may have been fooled with by some prior owner. The throttle is supposed to return to almost completed closed (IIRC the spec is .005" open as measured with a feeler gauge). You can make sure that the throttle is closing enough by disconnecting the plug from the switch on the throttle bell crank, and using a test light or ohm meter to verify that the throttle is closing enough to energize the switch. This little micro switch brings the idle control valve into the system to dynamically control the idle speed. You may find that someone has adjusted the throttle stop as a means to set the idle speed. On my 86, I had to carefully back the screw out until the switch would reliably complete a circuit when hooked up to my ohm meter. If you find you have to adjust this, there is a little lock nut that has to be loosened before the screw will turn. I think it is 6 or 7 mm.

[QUOTE=Quicksilver;10830336]Some good and some bad information here. We need to back to the basics.
- The idle on the 3.2 is not "set". It is 100% controlled by the computer. (DME)
really??

How about this adjusting the idle speed;-))))) of course there more to it but yes it is a manual idle adjutment;-)

Ivan

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587314271.jpg

That adjustment is set by the factory, which is why there's a plastic plug over it. You really shouldn't have to play with it.

Always hate to see when that plug (or the one on the AFM) has been removed. Typically it's a sign of a kludgy mechanic. This isn't a carburetor. Those factory settings should be the absolute last thing you mess around with, after you've tried everything else. Not sure where that repair manual picture came from, but I've worked on a bunch of Motronic (and later) engines, and that's never the way to set the idle. (I don't see it in my Bentley manual, FWIW).

But waaay before doing that, I'd check the usual suspects for high idle. These cars can develop intake leaks all over the place -- the manifold gaskets, the PCV hoses, the oil filler breather hoses. Big temperature swings and freezing cold temps only help the rubber stuff crack and split even faster.

The intake leak I had only really manifested when it was cold -- it was a hairline split in a rubber fitting. I think once the engine warmed up, the rubber expanded enough to seal up the crack, and no more intake leak.

monkey ...you really made me laugh.....this page is from Porsche factory specification manual...other than this i cannot comment on your analises;-))

Ivan, the kludgy mechanic;-)))))))))))

here is an answer to your above question..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587324848.jpg

people who did this book know something about adjusting 911 Carrera engine idle;-)

That’s the book I have. Or a PDF of it.

Hotshot..you're going the right direction;-) just do not overthink it...
Ivan

There isn't any "damage" per se, but it isn't idling. Getting it to run right shouldn't be that hard and it should run right.
If you are in an area where they have a smog test it will most likely fail if it doesn't drop to idle.

_______________________________________________
There is an obvious value to having everything set within the intended range that they were engineered for. The idle set procedure you mention has you disable the computer's control so you can see what the underlying adjustments are.
When they are adjusted correctly you know that the butterfly is passing something around the intended quantity of air so no matter what kind of conditions you are running under (altitude, temp, gas quality, etc), the DME's control of the IAC will be able to keep the engine running at the correct idle speed.

The manual idle setting should never ever have to be set unless the throttle body has become incredibly worn and it is pulling air around the butterfly shaft. Even then the original setting should still be fine because the DME has so much latitude in controlling the idle.

But adjusting the mechanical idle stop to compensate for a physical issue should be a pretty obvious mistake. Fix the issue. Don't compensate for it.
(But I have to say that because he doesn't know the cars previous history it is possible that someone monkeyed with the idle set screw and helped create the problem.)

i will leave it as this Wayne........way overthinking ....it hurts....the OP issue is very simple than what you suggest here;-))

Ivan

No Cat and an SW chip.. no smog tests where I am.

I’m wanting to go slow and learn this car inside n out. Would I like it in spec? Of course. At the same time,
While it’s cold Here and I am learning, I won’t mess with
Stuff I don’t fully understand. I have to also check how the SW chip effects it. The PO gave me all the old parts and a O2 sensor ( I have a new one, and the OEM Chip ).

A value all the points and an don’t want to reinvent the wheel. I like to keep it simple at first.

I want to know my car inside n out. It’s ranges, sounds and systems. Lots of reading and looking at stuff.

So keep it coming. I just don’t want to run the car and damage anything.

Is there away to check my Tac is accurate? Could be gauge..?

hotspot sound ok but the video cuts off right when it is coming to the idle make a another video even of the engine...that would easier to see if your RPM is real..
Ivan

Will do. Last night I took it out for a 30min test drive. It was 34F. While idling I popped the oil cap off and noticed it dropped about 180 of the tach.

Here was play by play. Below the pics is a video I took of it idling the first time I took it out this year. When it revs up, that’s me pulling the cable.


Just after starting, but I took the oil cap off/on , tack went lower value 1200 to 950. The audible engine sound came back to where it was, but the gauge showed lower.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587387993.jpg

After easy driving for 15 min it’s lower than normal but up a little. Bout 1050.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587387993.jpg


Then after a Hard run, hard turns, braking, etc, at a stop, it looked like it crept up to wear it normally is, just below 1200.

I’m wondering if it’s fuel cap?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587387993.jpg

https://youtu.be/x2H3Pr1kmEg

ok sounds good besides the needed valve adjustment and loose alternator belt..Really do you self a favor remove that yellow cap and turn the 7mm screw about 1/2 turn and you will be allset;-)

that is all i`d do ..........and enjoy the beast;-)))

Ivan

Wait my belts loose?

yes, your alternator belt needs to be adjusted;-)

I need the P209 wrench, only part of the tool kit I don’t have. The book says it should press in about 5mm. That’s about it. It’s a Goodyear belt with a lot of text printing. I’m wondering If that makes it look wobbly.

A little tightening, surly can’t hurt.

Here’s another vid I took, with the cap on n off.

Went for a very spirited run, and she goes good. It’s just hard when you cave no comparisons.

https://youtu.be/I4sqwoH8Fmw

ok,the tool is kinda good to have look around the net and get one...to adjust the belt..your idle seems ok ,did you do any adjustments?..this is my 911 not really all the way to idle standard..but it will give an idea your are ok;-) i keep mine around 950 and i like it that way...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Out_PKGkYYY

about the alternator belt adjustment..it looks like you do not have enough shims on the shaft...there have to be 6 of the shims no less or no more your is less..
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techar...small/pic2.jpg

Thx. I didn’t do anything yet because I want to Check for leaks. I pulled my cruise control module because my PO said he never used it, and something to the effect it stays on. I’ll test the plug pins for something to do, but I am interested in learning and doing a vacuum leak check.

Then if nothing happens I’ll move the screw but mark it first so I can move it back. There’s NO Way I’m moving the CO screw as I lack the knowledge and don’t have a CO meter.

I checked the ICV and it’s buzzing like a champ with 12v on it.

I’m in a storage place, I want to work on the car and have it set so she’s running like a top. At the same time you need to have a benchmark and enough experience to reference it toward something.

A little knowledge is a deadly thing in my biz, so I’m taking that mantra to this.

I have Wayne’s book and the PDF you have.

Car still works great. Really appreciate the posts.

I swear we have the same car. I’ll do another vid today or tomorrow. Cold here again.

My 86 was build July 85 and has some 85 stuff vs a late 86.

The plated Oil Cap, the same stickers as you on the hot air pipe, and the snap back rear seats vs the Pull centre pins. Things you learn along the way.