Update G50 Clutch Fork

[Dooodahman]

Split the engine from the tranny and found that my '88 has obviously had the cross shaft updated:



But the fork seems to have metal sleeves instead of the plastic bushings I see on the current model fork. Does anyone know if I can buy 950-116-715-01-M100 to use with my current fork (Bushing for Release Bearing Fork 95011671501 - Genuine PORSCHE - Genuine PORSCHE - 950-116-715-01-M100 | Pelican Parts) or do I need a whole new fork?

Thanks!

Andrew

[prschmn]

Don't worry about changing them-the pin rotates on the needles on either end.
Though I see you have a bunch of loose needles!

[Flat6pac]

That's all the old factory items.
The repair includes brass bushings in the fork and on each end.
Bruce

[Quicksilver]

Inspect the bearing surface on the cross shaft. If it is in good condition all of it can be reused.

The most important thing is the lube you use.
Let's repeat that...
The most important thing is the lube you use.

If you don't use the correct lube IT WILL FAIL.


Now for the odd bit...
Porsche specifies "Optimoly HT" to lube the bearings.
There is a large contingent that says to use "Olista Longtime 3 EP". Both are hard to find.

There is a very easy and cheap alternative. Go to any VW shop and get a tube of "Bosch Distributor Grease". It will stay in place and it will not fail.

[john walker's workshop]

Yes, you can use the plastic bushings. Inspect the tips of the fork for excessive wear. Put some grease in the slave cylinder pushrod hole. The dealer has optimoly, but it ain't cheap.

[Dooodahman]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Yes, you can use the plastic bushings.

JWW, will I have to press out the metal sleeves to use the plastic bushings? I would think that there would have been a ton of slop in my current set up if there currently was room for the bushings.

[john walker's workshop]

Press them out.

[Dooodahman]

Thanks, JWW. You saved me $150!!!

[KTL]

Keep in mind that the factory Porsche shaft update that a lot of people poo-poo is the same collection of parts that's used in later cars like the 964, 993. So it's not necessarily a bad design since it continues to function OK in those transmissions

No need to replace the bearings if you're thinking you need to do that. You can clean up all the needles and take a close look at them. If still smooth, place them back in the bearing cup and pack with grease. Agreed it should be a proper extreme pressure bearing grease that lasts a long time.

Olista Longtime EP is a Castrol grease but it's easier (and more expensive) to get it from the dealer in a little tube since you don't need a lot of it.



If you know a little bit about greases you can find a suitable alternative. I found Dow Corning 1292 was a good substitute and it's been working out fine in my former '87 for around 14 years now. It ain't cheap either. Bosch distributor grease has been a favorite for a lot of the old pros. I've heard it's also a good lube to use in the steering rack!

Here's the bulletin about the shaft update if anybody cares






Here's a lengthy thread we had years ago about the factory vs. aftermarket shaft installations

G50 Cross-shaft Update

[Dooodahman]

Originally Posted by KTL

No need to replace the bearings if you're thinking you need to do that. You can clean up all the needles and take a close look at them. If still smooth, place them back in the bearing cup and pack with grease.

My cross shaft shows signs of wear (grooves from the needles) and the needle bearing not pictured is still stuck in the ear (and will probably sustain damage upon removal) so I am planning to just replace it with a new shaft and bearings. Kit for Release Bearing Fork Shaft 101518086 - O.E.M. - 10-1518-086-M260 | Pelican Parts

I guess since I am replacing I could replace with the bronze version without needle bearings, but, as you noted, this version has proven to work in a number of applications and (1) the factory updated version is cheaper and (2) I am not interested in grinding down the shaft as JWW and others have indicated is required.

[Dooodahman]

Well, I've hit another snag......I've got my nice new release fork kit ready to install but I cannot get the remaining bearing out of the housing (Needle Bearing (closed), Part #8 in Technical Bulletin 4, above). I have successfully gotten it to move about 2 mm out, so it now stands a bit proud of the bracket face, but it will not move out any further. I've tried vise grips and a big ass screwdriver to pry it out. You can guess the results. Any ideas how to pull this?

[john walker's workshop]

There's a hole behind it.
The shaft kit with the bronze bushings needs to be shortened 10mm if the case is cut for bearings, in order to center it. Slip it in and see if that relates to your case.

[Dooodahman]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

There's a hole behind it.

John, I wish there were... Could it be there is no hole because this was an updated G50? (Mine is an '88.)

[john walker's workshop]

Bummer. Guess you'll be getting creative. One of those short, fat spiral easy-outs would get a grip.

[john walker's workshop]

[Dooodahman]

Thanks, I'll look into it!

[Antonov]

Slide hammer perhaps? I'm not sure if the angle is right.....

[fatboy828]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

where can I get this tool ?

[Marc Bixen]

Mr. Walker, The hole on the back side is 964/993. I've been drilling a 1/4" hole in the back side of the 3.2 G50's when I perform the update for years. Makes next time easier.

[Dooodahman]

A combination of the tools John showed plus a large galvanized nail I hit with a torch and bent into a combo hook/pick device ultimately got it out.