Engine compartment seal
 

Changing these seals is like a VW, except worse. I tried to slide the new seal through the groove, but that was impossible. So, I opened the groove (channel) a little with a prybar, but that didn't help much.
Finally, I just opened the grove completely and put the seal in. Now, I have to just go around the bottom and close it back up with a flat bar and a hammer.
I got to wondering how they did it at the factory, They probably had a special tool to pinch the groove closed.

If I remember correctly I used either dawn soap or something that was slippery to slide them in, was a pain but ended up working fairly well.

^^ This. They would have used a liquid silicone material to slide the seals through (in fact, OEMs, including Porsche, still do this today for various rubber seals on the vehicle). Tolerances between the original seals and the grooves, at the time, were such that this would have been easily doable.

Make sure the channel is clean and free from debris.... Liquid Silicone made this process a breeze

https://target.scene7.com/is/image/Target/GUEST_1db44367-2385-434f-823b-943d1e3f35e4?wid=325&hei=325&qlt=80&fmt=webp

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Got to lubed good!, I just did it, no biggie, Jay.

This tool is the best! Sorry but I can’t find the source. Maybe someone else will recognize. Made of tough nylon. Very sturdy and will limit damage to paint and seals. Fantastic for all seals, windshield install etc.

I just installed a new engine compartment seal. Cleaned groove, opened up sections that had been crimped. Make sure orientation matches old seal. Fit the top edge of seal and with a light Dawn soap and water mix or detailing spray for lube pressed in lower edge of seal. Work your way around the engine compartment.

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Mine was evidently changed once before. It was crimped excessively. It became a massive PITA. But, I did it carefully, opened up slowly, and recrimped it all when I was done with a punch, strip of plywood and a rubber hammer.

On reinstallation does the engine tin go between the seal?

Maybe something like that used to pull electrical wire? I bought some stuff for the 911 and it came in a bottle large enough to wire a 737.

Yes; one lip above the tin, one below.

Awesome, thanks. A bit of a fiddle right? One more thing to think about as you position the engine and remove all the various interfering lines.

Actually it’s not too bad. The new rubber is a lot more pliable than 35 year old stuff...:)

Good point! I’m just looking for the next way this car will fight me as I get it back on the road after 6 months on a lift for suspension refresh and other odds and ends.

I did not notice that this seal had 2 flaps while doing the drop, and was wondering about how it went back together...

Thanks!

A stiff plastic putty knife or white plastic pokey tool will be your friend. The corner bends are the trickiest but stay with it and you’ll get there.

We use these for installing rubber seals and windshields/windows. Very robust and pretty cheap.

CRL216 Tapered Stick Tool

+1, I couldn’t come up with the nice description provided. They are useful for this job and many others!!