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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: D.C. Suburbia
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How to loosen frozen brake lines
Two weeks ago I started what should have been a routine caliper rebuild and brake hose replacement. This project (like so many others) immediately turned into a bigger mess than I had hoped for - every single flare (except one) on the hard brake lines were frozen to the line. I realized this on the first caliper as I didn't really have good light and sheared the SOB right off.
A quick run around the car confirmed that 11 of the 12 flares I needed to remove were forzen (hey, I have a little luck). So I squirted with Liquid Wrench and waited. Read the BBS, saw suggestions for PB Blaster. Bought it, sprayed and waited. And again. And agin. Everyday for a week (my wrench time is mostly limited to the weekends). Nothing. Nada. Ziltch. Zip. No movement. Since at this point I figured I had no choice but to replace the lines, I, well, coaxed them off, if you know what I mean. Well, I ended up getting all the calipers off, but not without damaging all the hard lines between the hoses and the calipers. New ones are on order from PP as I type this. Just doing my part to contribute to the "Make Wayne a millionaire" fund. Anyway, after thinking about this, here's what I should have done. Yes, this is a kin to "closing the barn door after the horse gets out", but hey, just because I was stupid doesn't mean you have to be: 1. Cut all the brake hoses in half (they're being replaced). Now, you may say "But Chris, I don't want to replace my brake hoses. I just want to remove the lines". Well, if you can't remove the hoses because the flares are frozen, then its been too long since your hoses were replaced. Pry $15 out of your wallet and replace them - these are your brakes, for cripes sake. Cheapskate. 2. Hold the flare steady with a 11mm flare nut wrench. (if you don't have one, have your spouse drive you to Sears and buy one. They're about $8 - you drive a Porsche, you can afford it. Didn't we just talk about the penny-pinching?) With either a 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, remove the brake hose by turning the hose, not the flare. Lather, rinse, repeat for all 4 wheels. 3. Remove the calipers. Things like the placement of the lower 17mm bolts in the rear is what makes these cars a never ending joy to work on. Have fun! 4. On the bench, remove the hard lines from the caliper. 5. Making sure the lines are flushed of brake fluid, heat the flare end (the threaded part, not the copper) with a small propane torch. I recommend holding the line in a vice (try not to crush it) as opposed to your hand. If I recall my Heat Transfer from college correctly, copper is an excellent conductor of heat as well as electricity. (BTW, I'm an EE so don't feel you have to take my word on this. Truth is I slept most of the time in Heat Transfer). 6. Alternate between heating the flares and turning with the 11mm flare nut wrench. Be gentle. Repeat until the line is unfrozen. 7. Inspect the lines to make sure there is no damage to them. If you in any way suspect something, replace the line. They're pretty cheap (< $20). I always err on the side of caution with the brakes. I'd rather throw a rod through my case than loose brakes because I cheaped out on a $20 brake line. 8. Now, the four flare ends left on the car that connect to the other end of the brake hoses are also frozen. How to free them? Well, you don't. Just screw the new hose on to them, tightening the hose against the flare. Then rout the hose, and reinstall the calipers with your newly freed brake lines.
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Chris M 1985 911 Carrera w/ 3.6 |
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Wow !!!! That to long to read at 1:15 am here on the east coast.
Kurt Williams
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Never drive faster than your gaurdian angel can fly. 82 SC w/965S eng and G50 6:1 hp/w ratio 72 911t 2.6 twin plug and 72' 911t 57k orig 1 own miles 65/66 912 1 owner 76k orig 01' Aston Martin DB7 V12 Vantage Coupe 6spd |
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Chris,
Step #4 can be a bit of a problem at times, on or off the car ... due to rust! If the fitting starts to round off, or if severe rust is present in the area around the fitting, and on the fitting ... forget the penetrating oil and petroleum products!!! Careful, controlled application of Muriatic Acid [HCl for swimming pools] with a dropper, followed by wire brushing with a stainless steel toothbrush and rinsing with water ... repeatedly until you are looking at bare, gray steel and cast iron ... will prepare your calipers for removal of old fittings, and new hard lines.
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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I wonder what the muriatic do to the later model copper lines? They do have the advantage of not rusting together.
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Chris M 1985 911 Carrera w/ 3.6 |
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