70 911: Transmission stuck to engine

[Rumble-Bee]

Please HELP!!!

I have spent the last 2 weekends just trying to get the transmission separated from my engine. I have a stock 70 911T with a 5 speed. I rebuilt the transmission myself (first trans rebuild by me) about 4 years and 20,000 miles ago. Unfortunately, I didn't replace the flywheel seal after the 6 months down time to do the transmission. My guess is that the crankshaft probably rusted during the wait because it started leaking 2 days after I put it together. I didn't have any problems separating the trans last time. It has leaked many - many quarts of oil since then and I want to replace both crankshaft seals, new flywheel bolts, and a new disk. I am hoping to reuse the pressure plate and T.O. and pilot bearings.

I read a couple of posts here where guys forgot to turn the T.O. bearing 90 degrees. My problem is that it won't turn beyond 10-15 degrees -- either way. I have read that the fork should be pulled toward the front of the car (opposite direction of clutch disengagement) but there is no slack in the fork. I have pried on the fork but that doesn't help. I have pried on the T.O. bearing's ears every which way and I've even pounded on a screwdriver to try to turn it.

I would greatly appreciate any help.

[ddinham]

The 70-71 transmission requires you release the pressure plate in I believe three areas around the perimeter. If you need more info PM me.

[Rumble-Bee]

Originally Posted by ddinham

The 70-71 transmission requires you release the pressure plate in I believe three areas around the perimeter. If you need more info PM me.

I did make up a set of spacers and tapped the rivets on the pressure plate so that I could crank in the 6x12mm socket head screws -- like the Haynes manual said. That didn't make any difference (and I've read a few other posts that say that it's not necessary).

[ddinham]

I'm working from memory here(scary). There should be no need for tapping anything. I just looked at an old 70 PP and there are areas where you can thread right into the plate. I used to use wing nuts upside down with cap head bolts through the center. I can take some pics recreating this if you think it will help.
Dana

[TimT]

No need for the spacers, you should be able to give a good tug, or pry on the shift fork and then be able to spin the t/o bearing

[ddinham]

Ok

[Cornpanzer]

Ditto what Tim said. There are two tabs on the clutch arm which capture that TO bearing, keeping it from rotating. Once you get it past the tabs, you are home free.

[Rumble-Bee]

Originally Posted by ddinham

I'm working from memory here(scary). There should be no need for tapping anything. I just looked at an old 70 PP and there are areas where you can thread right into the plate. I used to use wing nuts upside down with cap head bolts through the center. I can take some pics recreating this if you think it will help.
Dana

That did it!!!

Thanks soooooooo much!!!!

I did have spacers & bolts -- and the P-P rivets were NOT threaded. This has been a phenominal pain in the assssss. I was ready to give up and put it back together as-is & sell the car. (It will be for sale anyway). The spacers I used had too much flex (probably). The wingnuts were rock solid and I could actually see the rivets pull way back about 5 mm. I almost didn't try because I had read several posts that said the bolts & spacers are a bogus and unnecessay step. It could be that it's only needed for 70/71. I will take some photos while I have the spacers installed -- if anyone is interested.

[ddinham]

I know what it's like to not sleep thinking about a problem. Enjoy your evening.

Dana

[Rumble-Bee]

Thanks... I'm busy trying to get the old seal out now. See how many well meaning (and probably knowledgeable) people say that the spacers and bolts are not the way to go? It was your advice that made it possible -- Thanks so much!

[mellon595]

Had the same problem the last couple days and thanks to this thread got the tranny off. Attaching picture of solution provided by thread for others who run into this issue. There are 3 of these, recommend working each one in a couple mm at a time...worked a treat for me

[mitche]

Had the same problem the last couple days and thanks to this thread got the tranny off. Attaching picture of solution provided by thread for others who run into this issue. There are 3 of these, recommend working each one in a couple mm at a time...worked a treat for me

Must tell you guys that this tip is very useful for a -69.
However, when youve done like the pic above.

Adjust the pressure plate, that you can see through the holes. So the "fork" is free, then pull out the trans...

Very simple when you know it, but this little trick cost me 1-5 hour...

Thanks for previous tricks!

Mike

[gamin]

Gotta tell ya, I've never used bolts wing nuts or anything like that. Screwdriver through top hole to rotate throw out bearing and move the fork. Always worked for me.

[Sweendk]

I was able to rotate the bearing without compressing the pressure plate also. I should have searched the site weeks ago! I have been off it-on it trying to find a tool solution before resorting to just rotating the bearing yesterday. Next time it will be easier. You guys are great!

...lesson relearned...

Kirk

[thdbeat1]

Well Here is the Simple fix. I have read all of this below and quite frankly I really was confused to read the reply's and see people doing crazy things with wing-nuts. It really is so simple I created this video to help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIUVBNvLuIo

Erik

[thdbeat1]

If you ever need to do this again. This will take far less time.'


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIUVBNvLuIo

[theiceman]

cool vid and well done. fyi though that was 45 degrees ccw from verticle not 90

[thdbeat1]

Yes you are correct for sure

[Tspringer]

Hmmmmm. On mine there is no moving the fork and everything accessable through the holes is locked down tight. Tranny wont budge. The fork is solid and no levering, bending or banging will induce it to release anything. Im wondering if smashing the bell housing is the only solution?

[PeteKz]

Old thread, but I’m having the same problem with a 915 transmission bolted to a 1980 SC engine. I can pry the tranny hell housing away from the engine flange maybe 5mm or so, enough to get a large screwdriver in between to pry them apart a bit further, but it’s under some kind of spring tension. As soon as I pull out the screwdrivers, the engine end tranny pull back together.

Current hypothesis is that there is corrosion build up on the splined shaft, preventing the shaft from sliding out of the center of the clutch disc. It doesn’t appear there is any interference with the clutch release fork, since I can’t get it apart far enough for that to be an issue.

Anyone one else experienced this?