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Rennch on YouTube
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Need some Quarter Panel Installation Tips
I'm just about to fully weld up my quarter panels and rear latch panel. I am borrowing a stock set of right and left bumpers to help dial in my alignment, but I'm curious what the general procedure is for ensuring panel gaps, especially around the doors, are spot on.
Here's where I am at the mo: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() My plan is to use lead filler where the factory did, but I'm most concerned, like I said, about panel gaps. What are the techniques to dial in my door gaps correctly?
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Michael O'Neal - 69 RSR Clone(ish) - The build: http://bit.ly/69porschersr 69 911S Blasphemy Build on YouTube Rennch Youtube Channel: http://rennch.com/Youtube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_rennch_/ |
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Rennch on YouTube
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Looking like this might not be a common install,
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Michael O'Neal - 69 RSR Clone(ish) - The build: http://bit.ly/69porschersr 69 911S Blasphemy Build on YouTube Rennch Youtube Channel: http://rennch.com/Youtube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_rennch_/ |
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Registered
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Hey Mike. I've got a couple tips that may help as I've recently had to install a new door striker plate, rocker panel, and replace sections of quarter panel on both sides. Having never done body panels previously - it was a learning experience and certainly didn't come out perfectly. Here is what I would suggest:
1. Make sure the body is "square" to the ground as much as possible. Ideally, you'll be able to make reference measurements from the panels to the ground. 2. Getting the door panel gaps took a tremendous amount of tweaking after I replaced the panels in question. I would recommend removing the door striker plate and pushing the door into the closed position. I would probably leave the weatherstripping in if possible as it exerts a great deal of outward pressure on the door when new If you remove the door panel you can use a bungie/rachet strap to lightly hold the door into position on the interior side by wrapping it around the door internals. I then used a wooden paint stirring stick and laid it across the door/quarter panel gap to make sure I was flush (so the door doesn't sit proud/or too far in). I also used a another wooden paint stick that was 3-4mm thick to check panel gaps. 3. Make sure the fender flare "stick out" is the same for both sides. I think upwards of 3/8" variability isn't too uncommon though. I tried measuring this at a few places. One was through the torsion rod hole to the spring plate mount area, and the other would be at the widest point of the flare. You may need to pull/tug to get into a range you're comfortable with. 4. Check flare/wheel well peak height from the ground. 5. Make sure your tail light boxes are still horizontal. 6. Repeat 2-5 until its as good as you can make it. There is no singular right way to do these things, but lots of wrong ways. Measure a bunch, write down your measurements, tack up the panel in a few places and measure again. You'll be finished in no-time. - Ian |
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Registered
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I have a very stupid question. How is a quarterpanel installed at the factory? Is it cut the same shape as a replacement panel? Welded and then filler? Or is a factory one just stamped in one large piece, and only replacement panels need to be cut and welded.
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1986 Bosch Icon Wipers coupe. |
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Rennch on YouTube
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Here's my vid about the install:
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Michael O'Neal - 69 RSR Clone(ish) - The build: http://bit.ly/69porschersr 69 911S Blasphemy Build on YouTube Rennch Youtube Channel: http://rennch.com/Youtube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_rennch_/ |
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