Agreed... I am suspicious of the clutch fork as well. I have a friend coming on monday who has a scope and will see what we can see. Thanks!

Thanks Ken. I did check the coupler. The set screw was snug as was the bolt. There wasn't and debris in the boot from worn bushings and the bushings had a bit of give to them when I pushed in my fingernail. Found a couple videos on you tube of the process - thanks!

Thanks Walt. Will double check on that 3rd spec... I was focused on the clutch cable adjustment as outlined in the 101 projects book - so under the transmission, working with the stop bolt and the two nuts on either side of the cable where it attaches to the transmission. I did adjust the rubber stop on behind the clutch petal so the travel range was 25mm +/- .5mm.

I have a friend coming over on monday and he as a scope - hopefully we are able to get a look inside and see what is going on. Thanks for your help.

Thanks Ivan,

I will be sure to lube everything when we remove the little finger etc. I agree that things look a little dry down there. Will also check to see if there are rubber o-rings too... and what kind of shape they are in. Will also double check the 1mm gap... assuming that is what you think looks too big.

cheers,
konrad

I got to thinking about Icicle's post. In terms of holding the 8mm (or is it a 6?) bolt to get the gap you want, it really doesn't matter if the locking nut is on one side or the other of the arm.

However, putting it on the outside, by the bolt head, means you can set the splined arm on a different spline - because you can suck the bolt end in farther and not bump into the lock nut.

This is going to have some effect on the lever arm geometry involved here. It may be insignificant, but I usually install the splined arm so it is as close to the other lever as possible without touching, then install/adjust the bolt/nut.

My experience with the harp spring system is that any lack of lubrication there affects pedal pressure (when one of the leaves in the spring breaks you can really tell the difference). Perhaps this could lead to unsmooth clutch engagement, but that's not the first thing which came to my mind. I'm usually fiddling around to try to get the release point sort of at mid pedal travel to ease the exigencies of racing.

Hi Walt,

Been thinking about the location of the lock nut too. I have seen it in both locations - Bentley book 301-2 has it on the bolt head side, and 101 projects has it on the other side. Icemans point is a good one though - and will definitely keep that in mind as I move forward with all this.

Konrad..i've explained on post no 7, about the security nut....aso you clutch get thinner ,let`s say about 50 K the will be in your way to do any adjustments..so by moving it behind the arm will give extra play to adjust the clutch
Ivan

First off, thanks to everyone who offered this newbie so much help - it was greatly appreciated.

As it turned out, there were a few issues. The rear main seal had a small leak (clutch was dry thankfully), the TO bearing was totally dry and quite sticky and the clutch release fork had a significant crack in it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596504882.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596504882.jpg

The wear to the tips of the fork were quite different, suggesting this crack has been evolving over time. Just glad things stopped working before the entire arm broke off.

New seal, greased TO bearing and new fork and things appear to be back to normal and back on the road.

thanks again,
konrad

Boy, dodged a bullet right there!

yeah... feeling pretty fortunate to have caught it before anything catastrophic happened.