Where can I find one of those tools that fit on the jack cup for easy lifting?

[jbripps]

Hey,

I'm trying to find out where I can get one of those tools to put on the jack cup that slips into the notch on the side of the car for fast lifting. Is that a run-on sentence, or what? I saw one at a recent DE. I thought Pelican had them, but I can't find it here. Any input would be appreciated.

thanks,

[dad911]

I think what you want is Pelican part # PEL-TOL-JKPD

[1bar]

If you mean the engine holder / stabilizer thingie that fits on the end of you floor jack, then yes - it USED to be on Pelican. I can't find it in the tools section now either. The original unit came from a guy on E-Bay who fabricates the things.

I'd e-mail Wayne and ask him if he stopped selling them, or what. I seriously thought about getting one myself - so if you find out, let us know.

Larry

[Big_Mac]

What are people's thoughts on using this?

I was told by one independent service agent that he would advise against using them because it adds extra leverage to the jacking point which is a weak link and often a point affected by corrosion. He suggested that a trolley jack under the rear torsion bar tube was the best jacking point - and it would lift the front of the 911 due to the weight distribution.

[Porsche_monkey]

Gotta agree with Big_Mac. As the owner of a (previously) rusty older (74) 911 I would never jack my car up from there.

I actually use a sling and lift by the engine mount bracket using an overhead crane.

[Don Plumley]

I agree, in a rusty car this is probably not a great idea. But in a non-rust car, this is a great place to jack the car from - it's positioned/balanced to lift the side of the car at once.

[Argo]

The only problem I've found with the pad is that after jacking up to a certain height, the car (and pad) are angled enough so that the jack starts to slip out from underneath the pad. Inserting a piece of 2X4 between jack and pad helps, but it's still difficult to get the car high enough to get good working room underneath without lifting both sides of the car (extra work). Any quick cure for this (beside driving the car onto a couple of pieces of 2X12 prior to jacking to get a little extra room)?

Argo
88 Targa

[Porsche_monkey]

What you're saying is the tube should be bent down, then as you jack the car up it sits horizontal.

[jbripps]

Hey,

thanks for the responses. My car is very clean at the jack notch, so I'm not worried about any cracking. I think Dad911 got it....thanks!!

Is there also another piece that's shaped like an "L"? Is that a fabricated tool?

thanks again,

[Don Plumley]

The top of my floor jack pivots to keep it level. Though to get it really high I need a 2x4 anyway.

Nope, no other pieces, it slides into the square hole (it's upside down in the pic), your jack mates with the round part.

[MotoSook]

With a 3.5 ton Craftsman jack I was able to get the rear of the car up high enough to pull the drivetrain out, but no way in Hades can I do that with my 2 ton Craftman. The plate does slide on the jack, but if I put the lip of the jack on the plate such that it prevents sliding it works OK. But I'm going to get a welder to weld a smaller diameter plate or something on the underside to prevent this. Something that sits inside the bowl of my jack, and perhaps rests inside it, or even a single point of loading. That would allow pivoting.

Anyone want to buy one? I can probably get one of my contract welders to turn these out like bunny rabbits.

[dad911]

I made my first one, then bought one the second time around. Problem was getting square stock in the correct size. I had to mill square stock, not worth the trouble for $15.

I did weld a 'nut' on the back side, and I remove the round jack pad on the jack. Then the nut fits inside the hole where the jack pad was and keeps the tool from sliding off the jack. Hope you can follow that......

[MotoSook]

dad911, right idea...

I have a number of fabrication shops that I work with that may be able to provide the stock for the insert and fab it all...just a thought.

I'm just tired of simple problems that we have to put up with, just because the right supplier hasn't approached Wayne! Just because it is what was available, it may not be the best design.

You are right...for less than $20 why the hassle, but if I can get one of my contractors to turn out a number of these without a lost to me, would anyone be interested?

Wayne, you want to market such thing?

[john70t]

I bought on of those side-jack inserts and haven't used it yet. A couple issues:
1. The face of the tool/insert which the jack pushes up on is flat and smooth and the jack "cups" are bowl shaped. After 20 degrees of deflection what's to prevent the jack cup from rolling, slipping off and the vehicle bouncing off your shoulder etc...? Theres no saftey knobs or other shape of metal to prevent such.
2. The metal surounding the square jack port built into the frame of the vehicle is what -1/16" steel- poorly rustproofed and 25+ years old. Granted the early cars were pretty light, but if you're lifting from the center of a beam you should be d#nm sure the weight is evenly distributed. Or face a vehicle with permanent alignment problems.

[dad911]

Try using it at 90 degrees to intended use. round part will 'roll' with jack. Or have a 'bump' welded on to prevent slipping off jack. I also don't use it to lift car to extremes, just high enough to remove wheels. When I want the car elevated enough for major work, it gets jacked from front & rear suspension points, and put on jack stands. 90% of the time I use jack tool just for changing wheels & bleeding brakes at the track.

[ErVikingo]

To those looking for the jack adapter tool to lift the engine, the builder is Paul Wilding (user: paulwilding on ebay). The build quality is superb and it works like a charm.

It looks like:



Hope this helps,...

[Kurt B]

Just my opinion, but after 15 years, I wouldn't use the jack holes.
They are always the first place to weaken. After 15 years, you should give into using a floor jack unless you're changing your tire on the side of the road.

[pbs911]

Iv'e had problems with the jack pad. The jack seems to "walk" its way off the pad as the elevation increases. It acually slipped off the jack pad once and the car came crashing down after being lifted off the ground about 2-3 inches. You really have to position them carefully to really get the car up high. The 90 degree angle works best but I am still hesitant to lift the car with the jack pad any higher than just taking the wheels off the ground.

[Early_S_Man]

There hasn't been a problem using a floor jack and jack pad in the jack receptacle for 24.5+ years! It does require using some common sense to limit the roll angle ... though that may be taxing the space between your ears a bit much for some!

[rstoll]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1844253729