Starting troubleshooting 3.2L
 

Hello all,

It’s been awhile since I visited the forum — hope all is well. I have a 1984 carrera 3.2 with some starting issues.

Items I’ve replaced to date:
- new battery (AGM 900 cca)
- new hi torque starter
- new ignition switch

Symptoms:
- with a fresh battery, car appears to fire up just fine.
- after driving awhile (summer temps 90s) and parking the vehicle, it will not restart. The car will not even turn over / crank.
- it appears to come on slowly. Ie it will start first several times, then it will take two start attempts the next time, and then finally it won’t crank at all.

I’m thinking perhaps an alternator issue? Once running there are no other noticeable issues.

Thanks for your advice and expertise.

-Derek



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1593785240.jpg

Pretty car

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Likely it is the long yellow wire, or a bad ground somewhere. Next step, replace the ground strap from the transmission to the body. Clean the areas the strap touches to make 100% sure the ground is tight and solid.

If that does not do it, search the threads about the yellow wire to the starter.

as above ..also check your contact on the battery remove and clean it .There is a ground bunch behind the fuel filter ...

Ivan

Thanks guys. I’ll check those. I just replaced the starter this week so I am familiar with the wiring there. Why would it be so intermittent though? That’s what had me replacing the starter after the ignition switch was done. Next thing I suspected was the alternator... but perhaps it’s just bad wiring

I should probably get some new battery terminal connectors all together that secure more reliably to the battery posts.

It does sound like your alternator is not charging the battery. Have you checked the battery voltage to verify that it increases once the engine is running? Using a voltmeter, check the voltage across the battery terminals, while the engine is running.......if the alternator/regulator is working properly, your battery voltage should be approximately 14 volts. If it's much lower than that....it is not charging and it is likely your alternator/regulator is not working...if it's much higher than that, it's likely your regulator is not working.

regards,
al

Thanks al, I’ll try that this afternoon.

is the AGM a gel based battery? I can't say if the battery is an issue for your specific problem, but I in my experience, I used a Braille battery that was gel based and smaller in size and weight... but still have the same CCA. It would start up fine new, but the battery would just drain and could never hold a charge. After replacing 2 different batteries with the same result, I just went with a standard OEM battery and never had a problem again.

If you get a cigarette lighter volt meter you can watch your voltage increase as you drive the car and as heat affects the alternator you can monitor it.
Battery should maintain 12.2v static sitting for hours with no load
When driving cold it should be around 14v
After driving for awhile in heat it may drop down to 12.8>13.2v and that is ok

Oh and it should start even with voltage at 11 - 11.5v just slower. So if it’s not starting I bet voltage is dropping to - 10v.

Good idea with the multi-meter connected via the cigarette lighter. I will rig that up so I can monitor it while driving.

If it is the alternator, what is the best alternator option for a 3.2L? Not sure if there are any preferred aftermarket options much like the hi torque starter (vice oem) I just put into the car.

Thanks

More is better?

Were I doing a new alternator at this point, I'd be considering this...

https://www.classicretrofit.com/collections/upgraded-alternators

I'd look for a local old-school alternator shop that can rebuild your alternator for you - that way you avoid the problems many folks have had with commercially-sourced replacement alternators (which are generally remanufactured from old/failed core alternators)

Presume that once your no-start situation appears, you need to recharge your battery before your car will run again? If so, seems you've got a no charge situation.

Let us know where you're located == perhaps somebody on the forum can recommend a local shop for the alternator rebuild.

I concur with the rebuild, you know it fits!
Some shops know how to boost output on stock alternator, but unless you are adding accessories like the electric air conditioner you probably won’t need it.

Car won’t start since my original post in this thread (earlier this week).

I just put a multimeter on at the battery terminals.

Max voltage was prior to trying to start.
Min voltage was while attempting to start (though engine did not crank once)
Current voltage is after 2-3 attempts of attempting a start.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1593989822.jpg

Put a charger on it overnight (a good one made for AGM batteries), and, assuming it comes up to 13 volts or so by the next day, it should start if it’s a battery voltage issue. As soon as you get it started, though, take it to Advance Autoparts (or someone similar) and they will come out with a great instrument and check your entire charging sytem for free and tell you if it’s the battery or alternator. Very accurate and reliable. No guesswork; either the battery won’t take a charge, or the alternator won’t send juice to it. Start there. If they both check out OK, you either have a ground issue, or wire connection issue causing the intermittences. My $.02.

Thanks. It didn’t seem like 12.7V from the battery was a bad reading - if schools have at least tried to crank. My dad found this video, and as others suggested in this troubleshooting — perhaps the cables are suspect.

https://youtu.be/XhRPLgH6uZg

Battery voltage looks good. Should crank with that voltage. Check grounds! you can try bypassing engine ground with a jumper cable from body to engine and see if that works. Battery can be checked at auto parts store with a load tester to see if it just has a surface charge. Did the car have an alarm? Check the plugs under the dash to make sure they are seated, yellow wire from ignition switch is sometimes interrupted by alarm installation.

Replace the voltage regulator.. I had a similar issue with my’87 a couple of years ago. Intermittent problem with the VR.

Reporting back on resolving the issue.

I tested voltage at the starter from battery. Then tested voltage from yellow small gauge wire with the slip connector when attempting to crank the car. Voltage at the wire was good.

Glen was right earlier in this thread. I found that the slip connector and wire crimped in the connector was extremely corroded. I clipped the old connector off and stripped some fresh wire for a new connector.

Fired right up after that. That connector is fairly exposed to salt / road elements — would highly recommend other folks with starter issues check this fitting if they’re having issues like mine.