How do I press in the door stay pin?

[markmalin]

I replaced the driver's door stay mechanism and installed a reinforcement plate. I bought a new pin but I can't seem to force the pin in all the way. I see if I try to put the pin in the original door stay, it only fits in part way (the narrower end). The upper end is ribbed, which I assume secures it into the door stay arm when it's put in properly What's the procedure for pressing this in? I've tried just pressing on it by hand, with a pliers, tapping on it with a hammer and a drift, but don't want to damage the part that's connected to the body of the car.

Thanks
Mark

[boyt911sc]

Apply some heat around the hole and compress the pin using a C-clamp and a suitable socket. Store the pin in the freezer before installation and it will slide easily.

Tony

[markmalin]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Apply some heat around the hole and compress the pin using a C-clamp and a suitable socket. Store the pin in the freezer before installation and it will slide easily.

Tony

Thanks!

[john walker's workshop]

I toss those damn things and use a 6mm bolt and nylock nut. Never had much luck getting them through without undue violence.

[markmalin]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

I toss those damn things and use a 6mm bolt and nylock nut. Never had much luck getting them through without undue violence.

you know...that's not a bad idea. The holes in the part that's mounted to the body of the car have been enlarged over the years while the hole in the stopper arm is smaller. It makes an annoying snapping sound when the stopper arm detents are passed because the arm snaps forward and the pin hits the inner edge of the enlarged holes (if any of that makes sense). I should just try a 6mm bolt and nylock to see if it works any better. The other side I see someone used a roll pin on - it's dead quiet!

When I installed the new stopper I even dismantled it first shaved down the plastic/rubber bumpers that ride over the arm's detents hoping it would be quieter...

[markmalin]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

I toss those damn things and use a 6mm bolt and nylock nut. Never had much luck getting them through without undue violence.

John, I went down to the hardware store, got a stainless allen head M6 bolt, a nylock nut and a couple nylon washers. Worked like a charm! I ended up wrapping some teflon tape on the threads and added a couple layers of copper tape so it would fit snugly, tightened it down and it's dead quiet. It has NEVER been that quiet before

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by markmalin

you know...that's not a bad idea. The holes in the part that's mounted to the body of the car have been enlarged over the years while the hole in the stopper arm is smaller. It makes an annoying snapping sound when the stopper arm detents are passed because the arm snaps forward and the pin hits the inner edge of the enlarged holes (if any of that makes sense). I should just try a 6mm bolt and nylock to see if it works any better. The other side I see someone used a roll pin on - it's dead quiet!

When I installed the new stopper I even dismantled it first shaved down the plastic/rubber bumpers that ride over the arm's detents hoping it would be quieter...

oh.. so THAT's what's making the clicking noise every time I open or close the door.. I think I will look into doing a similar thing.

[porsche930dude]

I agree with the bolt method. On other cars I have filed down the splines a bit to get them in easier.

[markmalin]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

oh.. so THAT's what's making the clicking noise every time I open or close the door.. I think I will look into doing a similar thing.

YES!! This has driven me nuts for years. Watch the pin as you open the door. The pin is tight against the door stay arm, but loose against the holes attached to the body - the pressure from the detent inside the door stay slams the pin into outer edge of the oversized holes in that part that attaches to the body. (I need a better name for that thing....sorry)

[proporsche]

i always used hammer and it worked.....
Ivan

[markmalin]

here's a picture. I have a nylon washer on top of a rubber washer FWIW

[john walker's workshop]

I use a bolt and nylock nut, nothing else. Tighten until it stops snapping and snug it up down the road as needed.

[kaufmanp]

Originally Posted by markmalin

I replaced the driver's door stay mechanism and installed a reinforcement plate. I bought a new pin but I can't seem to force the pin in all the way. I see if I try to put the pin in the original door stay, it only fits in part way (the narrower end). The upper end is ribbed, which I assume secures it into the door stay arm when it's put in properly What's the procedure for pressing this in? I've tried just pressing on it by hand, with a pliers, tapping on it with a hammer and a drift, but don't want to damage the part that's connected to the body of the car.

Thanks
Mark

Maybe the hole, has to be reamed for the pin...that's what i would do.

[stevej37]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

I use a bolt and nylock nut, nothing else. Tighten until it stops snapping and snug it up down the road as needed.

I did this fix today...to stop the snapping sound.
Awesome fix...it's silent now. The total cost was $1.84
Thanks for the tip!

[Kevin Saunders]

Thanks John, the noise was bugging me for years. Ran out and bought the cap screws and they work like a charm.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

I toss those damn things and use a 6mm bolt and nylock nut. Never had much luck getting them through without undue violence.

Thanks for saying this. I'm now clear to replace with small bolt and nylock.

[Flojo]

just grind down slightly the corrugated area until it slips in kinda by itself.
so easy.

[70etarga]

The nylock bolt procedure corrects Porsches original inferior design. Improving on Porsches design is a good trick it you can do it.