Think I'm going to put new shocks in my early 911, what else should I do?
 

I have a 72 T 2.4 Targa.

I have installed a front sway bar.

I'm thinking about putting new front and rear shocks and upgrading to Turbo Tie Rods.

I'm also wondering if there are any bushings that I should deal with while I'm in there??

How about ball joints? I have no record of them ever being replaced. What do bad ball joints feel like??

The largest complaint I have with the handling is body roll on the front end. I don't want to install a camber strut brace...

Any other thougths on what should be replaced?

After seeing the condition of my rear spring plate bushings and trailing arm bushings, I would recommend changing those out after you are done with the front.

I would suggest new a-arm bushings and rear spring plate bushings. These are most likely worn out. There is much information in the archives about changing the bushings as well as sizing them to work correctly.

You may also want to get a rear sway bar to further reduce body roll. You may already have the mounts and need a bar and droplinks.

Jamie

replace every piece of rubber in the susp. -- incl. the top shock mounts (camber plates).

I'm doing my suspension next week. Here's the order I just placed with Pelican:

911 Turbo Tie Rod Kit 911/912 (1965-73) TTK-930
2x Front Upper Strut Mount, 911/911 Turbo (1974-89) C-341-018-00
2x Ball Joint, 911 (1972-89), each C-341-049-01 (I have later struts)
2x Threaded Pin for Ball Joint Attachment, 911 (1972-73) C-341-119-06
2x Washer for Ball Joint Threaded Pin, each J-089-006-02
2x Lock Nut for Ball Joint Threaded Pin, each K-084-019-02
2x Cotter Pin for Ball Joint Lock Plate, 912, 911 (1972-73) N-012-521-1
2x Lock Plate for Ball Joint Bottom Nut, 912, 911 (1972-73) A-341-426-00
2x Nut for Ball Joint to A-Arm Attachment (sold per each), 911/912 (1969-73) A-341-425-00
A-arm Front Bushing Kit (Set of 4), 911 (1968-73) PB-12P
Rear Trailing/Banana Arm Suspension Bushing Kit (set of four), 911/912 (1965-73) PB-008P

I have fairly new swaybars, so I didn't need to do anything there. Still, get's expensive in a hurry for all those little un-glamorous parts.

Ball joints -- my understanding is that you push and pull on the wheel (raised) and if there is any play, that may be a ball joint problem.

Don't know what your budget is, but you might want to consider adjustable spring plates in the rear since you are going to have all that apart anyway. The SAW bushings are not the same size as stock, from what I remember, and it's an upgrade that you're heading towards anyway. Why do it twice? (OK, I'll admit that I would do it twice for the enjoyment of working on the car, but them I am an admitted masochist in that area...)

Consider looking into replacing the rubber bushings with a bearing setup. Though pricey... a very nice option. GRM did an article on replacing the bushing with bearings on a 914 front suspension

Suspension Rebuild
 

At the very minimum, I would replace the shocks, ball joints and tie rod ends. While everything is apart, take a good look at all the rubber bushings. If they look worn, distorted or have been oil soaked, replace them otherwise, leave them alone. By the way, while you have the brake apart and the struts out, this is a good time to throughly clean and repaint everything. Don't forget to carefully inspect the wheel bearings and races. Clean and repack the bearings and install new seals.

Good Luck!

Fred Cook
'80 911SC coupe

You might add the ball joint removal tool. Those are a real PIA if you don't have the right tool. Remove it while the a arm is on the car. You will need the leaverage!

I had to turn the torch on mine...they were tight...but the torch helped!