SSI Install Last minute prep & quiry, Bay Area Shout out

[juanbenae]

Get a link to map quest boys; we are having an exhaust swap out party in the bay area this weekend! It has been nearly two months since my ssi’s, dansk, oil lines, all the gaskets, & fasteners arrived and have been sitting in my office area at home. I am set for my pre-notice smog testing at a test only station this week, and it being good for 90 days it should allow for my registration to be paid in early July for an August renewal. I have had my wrench put it on his sniffer and he states it’s a very clean running SC and should pass w/o any problem. I will be doing a test only station so if (and they should from what I hear) they require the TO station I’ve been covered.

Parts I have—
* I have gotten all new barrel nuts and brass fasteners for the reassembly.
*Got a set of the 914 brake adjustment screws to plug the air pump injection inlets.
*Got a set of SSI’s and the OE type Dansk 2in/1out and a full compliment of gaskets. I should be able to use all the existing muffler mounts/straps with this unit.
*Oil lines.
*Four feet of the 2 ½” air spruce heater ducting and 12 @ 3” hose clamps.
*On order for a 36mm (actually a 1 7/16”) crows foot socket that I hope the MATCO tool guy brings before Saturday for the oil lines. If not I may be looking to run up one night this week and take yellowcab up on his oil line wrench offer. you there yella?
*A new can of PB Blaster to lube the nuts. I love my nuts lubed!
* Will be getting a MAP torch this week.
*A call for Pelicans to hang and drink beer and hand me tools.
*All the pelican tech articles/101 projects/bently
* What have I forgotten????

Additionally, what approach have you guys taken with the temporary abandonment in place of the EGR valve plumbing? I see where it ties in to the crossover on the stock system and figure I can plug it there if it does not interfere with the SSI or oil line install. Can it be chased up to the next joint and plugged up higher along the fire wall? Can I leave the EGR valve itself on the fire wall abandoned/not in use, plugged and expect it to work again in two years when I swap it back out for emissions? If not what should I do to maintain the integrity of the unit, remove it from firewall or what??

Also, what is the approximately 1” pipe outlet on the left exchanger that is up near the top of the heat outlet? Is this something for the older MFI exhaust temp sensor, or is it a condensation breather tube? Direction on plumbing of that on a CIS car is requested. Plug it or what?

Here we go!

[cantdrv55]

Saturday or Sunday? I heard you work in shorts and bare feet. Hope you don't mind if I wear shoes. I like my little piggies where they are.

[Rot 911]

Yeah that 1" pipe is for the MFI thermostat. You can just plug it. However, if it is for the MFI that means you have SSI's for a 2.4 engine. Does the 3.0 engine have bigger exhaust outlets? I know the 3.2 does.

[Rot 911]

Did a quick check. Same part number for the early SSI up through the SC's. Should fit just fine.

[GenX Porsche]

Let me know what time and what day and I might be able to help. I dont have any experience with the exhaust but I can hand tools, drink beer, and look important like nobodys business. Also not to rain on your parade but what are you going to do in two years when you have to get another smog check? That is since you are removing the air pump and EGR valve. The only reason I bring it up is because I want to do the same to my 77.

Have a dremel on hand just in case.

Duck food

[cbeers]

Hey Toby,

You know that I am in. Let me know if you'd like me to bring any tools etc. I think you mentined my HD jack stands ??

Anything else ?

-Chris

[juanbenae]

yeah chris i was going to call you tonite and see if i can get those stands from you one night this week. i am pretty sure they will go 3 or 4 inches higher than mine. i plan on smogging thursday (don't want to attempt it on wed. the 13th!!) so it will go up on stands thursday night to start the PB soaking.

genX- i will be attempting to register the car from a family property in a smog free county. otherwise my plan is to swap back every two years. i put less than 4k miles a year so i am counting on anti-seize, brass fasteners, and becoming very adept at the swap back and forth. this saturday after say 10am. if you are interested still i can pm you my address. i am in sunnyvale near 85 and evelyn, near the 101.

cantdrv55-chris, i will be at it all day saturday and (hope) to have it nearly done, but i will let you guys know that don't come by saturday if i am still going on sunday. of course that is if i dont have any issues. chris, you prolly know my parties are ALWAYS, and i mean ALWAYS clothing optional.

mark, did not open that link but pretty sure ive read it in the course of my research here. i imagine it had to do with cutting the oil lines off? not an option, as i have to replace the smog system in 07. the oil lines will be required to remain operational, but stored. edit- read that thread and will get a dremel bit when i pick up the map torch.

kurt, you nearly had me shatting myself! when i got the parts i was told that the difference was the flange thickness. in fact they were suprised that my SC had the thin flanges. an old thread by island had great photos showing the difference between flange thickness so a quick look under my car determined what i ordered.

you guys notice my bad spelling and grammer are back? the 1st entry was a cut and paste word doc. this is me working without the spell check net again....

[MichiganMat]

I'll bring my Channel-Locks just incase we need another set.

[vash]

toby, mark used the dremel to cut the nuts on the exhaust. he got them close and gave the nut a finishing hit with a chisel. no casualties. when i did my exhaust i had a dremel handy, but didnt need it with the heat. i think it can cut the oil line nuts too in an emergency.

cliff

[juanbenae]

bump for the night owls, hoot hoot.

[Jim Sims]

Seven 8 mm x 12 mm copper flanged all metal lock hex nuts for the seven studs that don't take barrel nuts: SSI Help/Question.

Long 3/8" drive 8mm hex key bit for installing barrel nuts.

Bent 12mm (or 13mm) wrench (usually comes with the SSI's or you can make one by heating and bending a wrench) to tighten the blocked SSI nut (the one that used to have a barrel nut in the OEM installation).

12 mm (or 13 mm if you're using 13 mm outside hex nuts on exhaust flange studs) 1/4" drive socket with built in universal joint along with several 1/4" drive extensions.

A few 8 mm washers to put under the barrel nuts if the studs are too long (to avoid bottoming out the hex key bit).

8 mm thread chasing die (not a thread cutting die) to clean up exhaust stud threads.

Thread anti-seize compound to put on studs/bolts prior to installation of new nuts.

Blank off plate to seal EGR valve flange when you remove EGR line with filter to muffler. You can make this out of a piece of sheet aluminum.

Spare exhaust studs, drill template and cobalt drills to drill out broken studs. Hopefully for back up only.

Good luck. Be safe. Wear eye protection. Have a fire watch person/wrench man and fire extinguisher when using torch to heat nuts.

Cheers, Jim

[juanbenae]

Originally posted by Jim Sims


8 mm thread chasing die (not a thread cutting die) to clean up exhaust stud threads.


Blank off plate to seal EGR valve flange when you remove EGR line with filter to muffler. You can make this out of a piece of sheet aluminum.

Spare exhaust studs, drill template and cobalt drills to drill out broken studs. Hopefully for back up only.


Cheers, Jim

jim thanks! a few things on what ive highlighted from above are things i had not considered.

although i have researched the egr thing further and found this>>ssi conversion

my egr valve plumbing goes to the crossover pipe between the exchangers. i plan on chasing the pipe up to the under side of the air box as jw explains in the post attached and cap with the drain plug he recommends. ordered one from pelican just an hour ago.

i also found this thread on tasking the vacuum lines that go from the firewall mounted unit to the cis throttle body. see here>>ssi conversion

the thread chaser, duh! something simple but i'd over look it before getting underway.

spare studs? good idea too. i may have to run over to smart racing and see if i can get a hold of a couple.

the extinguisher is always in the garage, so check there, safety is important. i tend to work very sparsely clad, but the eye protection is a good pointer with the torch.

should i need to drill out stud i will regroup and work on the clean up kit. that and kleenex to wipe my tears.

[Drdogface]

k911sc,
Will it ever smog after all these mods or do you plan to backdate every two years? Seems like a lotta work to go thru every two years. I have an SC as well and would love to do the same changes.

[juanbenae]

every two. i do have an option i mention above, a long shot pony but i'll try it.

[cantdrv55]

Originally posted by k911sc
every two. i do have an option i mention above, a long shot pony but i'll try it.

Hey, if it works, can I use the address too?

[Drdogface]

k911,
Sorry, I musta missed that reference above. I just heard this past weekend that there ARE smog free counties in Kalif. How can I find out which counties they are? Doubt if DMV would be forthcoming with this. Meanwhile, I'll google it and see what comes up. I own property in Yuba...may be lucky.

[gerard vaglio]

k911sc,

I have a 79sc and just had SSIs installed, very nice upgrade.

You might want to spray your exhaust nuts with BP Blaster now, the longer they soak, the better. The only thing that might slow you down is a broken stud and that can really bring your afternoon to a crawl.

There is one more alternative to changing everything out every 2 years, pm me when you get time.

Gerard

[JP911]

I've got the 36 mm and 30 mm wrenches for the oil lines if you need them. I also have a mapp torch if you would like to borrow it. I'll be glad to drop them off and pass tools and beers as we armchair QB your exhaust work.

[RoninLB]

I have the thick flange SC SSI w/the O2 sensor bung plugged. It's the same as spark plug threads.

good advise above on starting PB Blaster very early, like a week. Let it sit over night then the next day ride heat should help it along. repeat repeat for a week imo. I'd rather rent a real torch if a nut seemed ready to snap a stud.

I use Loctite Nickel anti-seize on exhaust hardware.

I've found that 1/4drive 12/13mm flex head Snap-On has a shorter swivel than others and easier to maneuver.