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Caveman Hammer Mechanic
 
ClickClickBoom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boulder Creek CA
Posts: 3,444
Garage
Rear wheel bearing

Like the title says, a few tips on rear wheel bearing replacement.
To remove the hub you will need a slide hammer, Harbor Freight is fine, just wail on it, don’t be shy.

Removing the bearing itself isn’t hard with the right tools:
23pc front bearing puller kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23PC-Front-Wheel-Drive-Bearing-Press-Tool-Removal-Adapter-Puller-Pulley-Kit-FWD/264031195593?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOME SPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid% 3Dfbc0199924c7462f99e6af46f7caa171%26pid%3D100005% 26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D2928004691 29%26itm%3D264031195593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3 D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bD emotion&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
You can chase all the similar stuff at Homer Depot, but it will mean a bunch of measuring and putting together stuff, or get something like this and be done with it.

Reinstalling, go back to basic physics, stuff gets bigger when you heat it and smaller when you cool it(generally). Put the bearing into the freezer for at least an hour, more to insure cold soaking. Heat the cast aluminum arm, I used a real heat gun for about 30 minutes, got the local area to about 130f. Got my kit from above all positioned, wrenches for tightening handy. Got the bearing out of the freezer, got the tools all lined up and the bearing went in easy.
The same for the hub install chill the hub for at least an hour, I didn’t, and when I went to press it into the bearing, it went all most all the way, bout 10 mm shy of seating, no matter how hard I cranked the puller, it was not going any further. Out comes the slide hammer and puller, I trashed a rather expensive bearing because my flashlight was going dead. Don’t be Eric. Chill and heat as appropriate, physics is your friend.

The last is the torquing on the big nut on the axle, I broke out my snap-on torque multiplier, YA-392:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-on-YA392-2200-ft-lbs-3-4-Input-1-Output-Torque-Multiplier-W-Case/254677111294?hash=item3b4bf051fe:g:mJEAAOSwsA9fKcF u

it has a 6x torque multiplication factor and makes torquing stupid easy, but I gotta say if you mark the castle nut, use the same washer and the same cotter key slot from the same direction it came out of, the torque will likely be correct. The difference between the bottom and top of the torque range (217-231ftlb)is only a few degrees of nut rotation. The multiplier is wizard for removing the nut as well.

There are a multitude of threads on the subject, all have some good info, read up and have at it, I give it a solid 3.1415 banana rating in terms of difficulty.

I guess the motto is spend a little on tooling, and work smart not hard.

__________________
1984 Carrera El Chupacabra
1974 Toyota FJ40 Turbo Diesel
"Easy, easy, this car is just the right amount of chitty"
"America is all about speed. Hot,nasty, bad ass speed."
Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936

Last edited by ClickClickBoom; 09-11-2020 at 07:40 AM..
Old 09-10-2020, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Sounds easy as pi!

Rahl

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1976 930 turbo Carrera, "Ubich". Mostly stock, lightly sweetened. She’s an angry schwierigkeit. She doesn’t want flowers, she just wants to dance! And when she does, she shakes her hips to the rythem of the road. Drive her like you hate her!
Old 09-11-2020, 10:04 AM
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