Carrera 3.2 fuel pressure regulator removal.........

[boyt911sc]

I have been trying to remove the pressure regulator of my ‘89 Carrera 3.2 cab and having a difficult time accessing the passenger side nut. The driver side nut is already loose. Do I need to do a partial drop? Any trick or suggestion is highly appreciated.



At the end of the fuel rail (driver side) is the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) that was confirmed to cause the residual pressure loss. It is located way back behind the motor and getting a wrench is quite a challenge. Thanks.

Tony

[Porsche 935]

I used crows foot wrenches, but make sure you looses the bottom fuel line first and then the large nut.

[RedCoupe]

When I did it, I think I removed the throttle body to get more room for my old hands to fit in that tight space. Also, my trouble light with an LED bulb and an adjustable remote mirror helped.

[proporsche]

Tony..take the left fuel rail out it will help you..are you changing both sides..to solve the problem you are having?

Ivan

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by proporsche

Tony..take the left fuel rail out it will help you..are you changing both sides..to solve the problem you are having?

Ivan

Ivan,

The residual pressure loss was pointing to the pressure regulator as the culprit. The engine starts instantly when cold but suffers a hot start. The residual pressure drops so fast that you could see the pressure goes from 2.5 bar to less 1 bar in 15 sec. after the FP stopped running.

I am using a crowfoot wrench to loosen the nuts. So far, the driver side was easy and the passenger side nut is giving a head ache. Thanks to everyone and will you posted of my progress.

Tony

[Lyle O]

I removed mine while the engine was out and can not imagine doing it in-situ, without, at least, a partial drop.

[Helix8]

I used “short” wrenches

[john walker's workshop]

The fuel pump has a check valve just like CIS.

[jlex]

When I replaced my engine compartment fuel lines, I had to take that thing off, and did it w/o having to do a partial drop or remove the fuel rail. Key to it was getting a good visual impression of how the thing is held on in the first place. If I recall, it was held on in a peculiar fashion so removing it was a bit counter-intuitive. See if you can hunt up a good picture of how its fastened on.
Hopefully, you're on the right track here and not wasting your time. Maybe it's just the check valve on the fuel pump that needs replacing. May want to check that out before you rip out the FPR.

[911 Rod]

What a PITA it was.
I used a mirror and pictures to get my bearings. Also I think I connected the fuel line before mounting the regulator.
You look at it with the motor out and shake your head.

[jlex]

Hah... John Walker beat me to it with suggesting that it may be the check valve on the fuel pump

[proporsche]

boys Tony already did the check valve....this is the conclusion of his testing...of loosing fuel press.
Ivan

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

The fuel pump has a check valve just like CIS.

John,

The FP check valve passed the test but I installed a new check valve. The residual fuel pressure drop was observed when the fuel pressure regulator was tested. Getting the FPR is not as easy like you told me. Thanks.

Tony

[Techno Duck]

Perhaps this will help with orientation. If your having trouble removing the fitting for the fuel line that runs between the damper and regulator, consider removing it on the damper instead. That side is very easy to access with the air box removed. If said fuel line is original, i would just replace it while your at it.

[boyt911sc]

Jon,

I was able to get a crowfoot wrench at the nut but was not able to break it loose. Need to use a slightly longer tool to get leverage. BTW, those black fuel lines look very nice. Where did you get them?

Tony

[porschyard]

Tony, i have done this many times.
I always remove the L S rail, then disconnect the feed and return lines at the reg. then disconnect the J hose at the fitting and then remove the complete assy with the bracket and regulator by removing the 1- 6mm bolt from the back and 2 from the side.

Getting the 6 mm bolt from the back started blind going back together is a little tricky but i have found this procedure to be the fastest.

[john walker's workshop]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

John,

The FP check valve passed the test but I installed a new check valve. The residual fuel pressure drop was observed when the fuel pressure regulator was tested. Getting the FPR is not as easy like you told me. Thanks.

Tony

I told you it was a bittch, so that wouldn't mean easy. Just easier with the heat motor out of the way.

[Techno Duck]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Jon,

I was able to get a crowfoot wrench at the nut but was not able to break it loose. Need to use a slightly longer tool to get leverage. BTW, those black fuel lines look very nice. Where did you get them?

Tony

The replacement lines i used are from Griffiths.

I had a lot of trouble getting the hose fitting off on the fuel supply side... even with it off the car and a lot of leverage it was unbelievably tight. I cut the hose off and mounted it in a vice. Used a deep socket and a impact gun to get it off. Just be prepared to use alternative means.

[mo-mon]

Did this 2 weeks ago to replace my fuel lines & removed the air intake & throttle body as a unit to access the passenger side regulator. PIA but doable. Best of luck!

[boyt911sc]

I would not have done this successfully without your help and suggestions. At one point, I had so many tools on the work bench trying to remove the defective FPR (fuel pressure regulator) for ‘89 Carrera 3.2 cabriolet without any luck. In my frustration, I decided to seek help and guidance from this forum and that was a very good decision.

I went to bed last night with no sight of success in the horizon and a very disappointing day. Actually it has been 2 days since I started to remove the FPR and failed miserably. After breakfast this morning, I went to HF to buy more tools and cut them to fit for my needs. While I was preparing my cutting tool, something just pop out in my mind.

Went back to the car and took a close look. Nobody even mentioned this trick and procedure so far. When you are desperate, you will try anything to save your neck.





This was my first FPR removal and next time around, it would not be a 30-hour debacle by a 30-min. relaxing and fun job. No need for special tools. All I needed were 10, 15, 17, & 19-mm standard open wrenches and piece of string to loosen the stubborn nut. I even contemplated dropping the motor yesterday.

To summarize this experience, you will need about 20~30 mins. to remove a FPR without dropping the motor and cursing because there is an easy and convenient way to tackle this project. Finally, thanks to everyone specially Ivan B. for his guidance and encouragement.

Tony