And just so I can sleep tonight, this is the correct wiring from ignition module to coilpack?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5438555fee.jpg

wiring
 

This was posted earlier.
pin 10 to 1
pin 11 to 2
Pin 12 to 3
pin 8 to 4

Wire it this way and then try the spark plug wire alternatives that I posted earlier and see if you are getting better results.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600645137.gif

Why don't you post a pic of the coil you are using and any part number that is on it.

more info
 

Here are a couple more examples....these are slightly different configs of the coil and as you can see , while the 4-pin connector wiring seems to be consistent, the coil ABC orientation, in relation to the connector can vary, depending on the era of EDIS you have. So wire the 4-pin as shown and then you can alternate the positions of 1,4 and 2,5 depending on what coil version you have.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600647638.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600647638.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600647638.jpg

Hi to all !
Sorry for maybe a dumb question...
May I use EDIS with carburators ?
Thanks.

Got it. I had the wiring wrong..twice. Caught up in moving too fast. I’ll wire the 4 pin connector tomorrow night as described.

These are the two coilpacks I have. I’m going to swap the one out in the car with the numbered pack. Really appreciate all the basic help..I’ll report back tomorrow.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ccfc163ec9.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...561e039519.jpg

Bad grounds can definitely mess with things and cause it to run rough. The ground to my left bank COPs came loose and it acted like a misfire.

Something else to check, but what wideband controller are you running and is it wired correctly? I initially grounded my 14point7 incorrectly and it acted like it was misfiring and the AFR would swinging wildly under load. I know that some people have also had issues with some Innovate wideband controllers.

Josh, your numbered coil pack does not match the pic of the same coil pack that I posted earlier..........I'm not sure why you are swapping out the coil packs......wire whichever one you end up using per the previous post with/pix. You'll only need to swap out 1/4 and 2/5 if it still runs rough.........try to change one thing at a time......test, then analyze the results before making the next change.

I’m using a 14point7 as well. I have 12v wired to my fuel pump relay, electronics ground to my Microsquirt sensor ground, heater grounded to the chassis and green output to the o2 Microsquirt output. I don’t have narrowband or sensor temp led wired

Please excuse the ugliness of this wiring. I plan to make a new wiring harness once I figure out the appropriate wiring.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6075985e28.jpg

Here’s what I have..as is I’m getting intake pops and stumbling. Coilpack didn’t change. Cranking timing is set to 5.0 and timing is fixed at 10.0

4 1
5 2
6 3

P1 on coilpack to P10 on ign module
P2 on coilpack to P11 on ign module
P3 on coilpack to P12 on ign module
P4 on coilpack - 12V from IGN relay in Bussman

Following up on this. I killed my OEM starter last week, got a new high torque unit installed yesterday. I have the EDIS system wired as shown and described as above. This seems to correspond correctly with the manual. I can get the car started every 1/5 cranks. I have to give it a lot of throttle, crank for awhile, and it doesn't seem to want to turn over. When it runs, its choppy and I'm getting lean pops out of the intake. When I turn the car off, there's strong fuel smell out of the ITBs and smoke.

So far, the best I've had it running is when I had 12V to P1 on the coilpack. After looking at the plugs in that config, it looked like cylinder 6 was not firing by looking at the plugs. That to me would explain the cabin vibration. I'm kind of at a loss, what else can I look at?

My 36/1 toothed wheel from GSF had a pin on the back which I would assume lines it up in the correct orientation. Aka..I would think I have the appropriate TDC but I have not confirmed this. Is there a simple tool to check this?

Josh, Perhaps you could put a timing light on #1 and assure you are close to the 5 BTDC cranking advance you selected.

Also, going back through the thread, I did not see any reference that the EFI fueling was sorted and running well on an earlier ignition system. Did you do the EFi and Ignition control at the same time?

Phil G

I should do that. I am just using that value based on others tunes. When I shoot timing on cylinder 1 with timing locked at 0 degrees and 0 cranking advance, I'm pretty darn close to Z1 and the fan mark matching. With that considered, should I keep my cranking advance set to 0 and then fix my timing at 10 degrees as the manual states?

Hindsight 20/20..I did EFI and ignition in the same move. I am using another member's tune, but updated my fuel settings based on the injectors I am using. I can screenshot my fuel settings here if need be

Here are some screenshots of my fuel settings. Anything odd?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...691f935f4f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b965906ea7.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...855245b00c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...96dd030f48.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ce1d56486b.jpg

Josh,
turn off EGO control, until you have the tune close to right. The info above, but since you have it running, maybe not too well yet....a datalog file is the best way to analyze your state of tune......
email me your current tune file and a good datalog file of starting and running and I'll see if i can help.
regards,
al

Back to troubleshooting today..I attempted a high speed log/tooth log, and I'm getting radio silence. Nothing shows up. I am currently using the VR circuit.

EDIS P1 to VR-
VR+ not used
VR shield wire grounded at EDIS and to my Ampseal sensor ground

I'd imagine that if I had the VR sensor polarity flipped, it would probably not run/run like crap, which it's doing, but I would think I would still get something to show on the tooth log?

Bumping this thread..I got frustrated with the car and myself last fall and tucked it away for winter. The shed and temps in the shed are good enough to work. I’m shooting each cylinder individually to verify correct timing.

If I understand correctly, 1 and 4 should fire at z1. 6 and 3 should fire at 120 and 2 and 4 should fire at 240? Correct? If so I need to swap some EDIS plug leads around. I never verified this last year and jumped right into the ignition trigger settings [emoji2361]

Cylinder 6 shooting @ 240

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4e0fc6f051.jpg

Cylinder 2 shooting at 120

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6dae56b239.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that you found the problem.
Check back to Al's post #18 and and see the upper diagram.

I suspect the confusion lies in that the EDIS6 fires Pin 10, then 12, then 11.

Cylinders 1&4 from Pin 10 (near TDC), Cyl 6&3 from Pin12 (near 120 deg.) and Cyl 2&5 from Pin 11 (near 240 deg).

I'm running a different coil pack with different coil connector, so will not post a photo which might further confuse things.

Hope that helps

Phil