a smooth switching indicator stalk, finally
 

I got my 86 Targa end of summer, and I still have the feeling as if I am torturing the car when manipulating the indicator stalk. Especially the return to zero feels as if I am in a fight with plastics close to breaking apart.

In another thread other members reassured me that this was not just my car, but a 'feature' of most 911s of the era.

My plan to open up the switch and see if something could be done to it came to a halt when I discovered that the whole assembly is riveted together. Taking it apart did not guarantee I could get it back together.

So I bought a new spare for a more or less reasonable 140 Euro to see if I could get it to work the way I want. Well , I did! It now switches very smoothly and only needs a fingertip to put it back to neutral.

It's not for the faint of heart though, there are springs and parts that have a desire to fly away when dissembling. Putting things back together is equally challenging. The rivets were drilled out with a 2mm drill, and for assembly replaced with 2mm nut/bolt. All in all it took me the bigger part of an afternoon.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601652285.jpg

on the left are the drilled out rivets, on the right some smaller parts including a tiny axle that you better take out before losing it

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601652285.jpg

the contact plate with a small spring , again ready to fly away.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601652285.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601652285.jpg

a very clever system, the tip of the swivelling arms lock the stalk when in L/R position.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601652285.jpg

in this area are the slots that lock-in with the tips of the swivelling arms

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601652285.jpg

and finally, this is what needs to be done. I blackened the areas to change. On the right is the original, on the left the modified plastics. As you can see, the left extrusion is made shorter (less than a mm!). Obviously this needs to be done on the yellow side too. I cut it with a sharp hobby knife, in 4 iterations where I took a tiny slice off till I got the right feel. If you go too far, the stalk will no longer hold, so be careful.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601653935.jpg

reassembly is a challenge. In this picture I keep the contact springs in position with a thin copper foil that I slid out once the assembly was softly screwed together before tightening up..

I can't wait to put it in the car an have a stalk with a smoothness that is in tune with the smoothness of the fabulous flat 6 ;)

and if that shaved down lob wears down over time from use ?

But, nice effort on the write up. Almost nonexistent on this forum.

I think I will be dead by then ;) More seriously, cause the pressure and friction is made substantially lower now, I actually anticipate less wear over time than on the original.

The way I make write ups is a means to give back to the forum for what it gives to all of us :)

Well done!

I hate it when I accidentally move the stalk past the detents when changing lanes. That 'snap' to re-center really does feel like your about to break something. I do my best to change lanes with just slight finger pressure on the indicator stalk.

The re-set works brilliantly when making a complete turn, not so much with lane changes...

I just use the finger touch when making a turn and just hold it. Not a big deal and better than hearing that loud plastic clack!!!

Apart from the WW2 era electrical system and the Rube Goldberg Contraption power top mechanism, the turn signal manual return to zero is the thing I like least about G Body 911s.

I accidentally sprayed the inner workings of my switch with a large shot of DeoxIT D5 electrical contact cleaner. It acted as a bit of a lubricant and made the action noticably smoother. An easy / inexpensive quasi-solution.

I'm tempted to try an actual spray lubricant, like Breakfree CLP (one of my all time favs) or Boeshield t-9 (I've heard great things), but I'm concerned that it may swell / warp / adversely affect the plastic housing.

I too avoid fully engaging the turn signal for a lane change and curse myself when I mistakenly do so. If space allows, I'll make a large enough steering wheel input & return so as to automatically cancel the turn signal in a bid to avoid the dreaded manual turnsignal cancellation. One of the less endearing foibles of classic 911 ownership.

I love it ! well done , I thought I was the only one that obsessed over the feel and sound of the stalk in manual cancel mode . I looks like you cut the nub on an angle , is this required for success
or a moot point . Thanks for sharing and writing this up.
Ian

Tnx! The angle is there to leave as much material as possible for strength. The side 2 length is what determines how hard or soft the manual return feels. The 1 side is just support material for the forces exercised on side 2, so I kept that about as original.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601742833.jpg

Very nicely presented. Thank you.

today, I mounted the stalk in the car (1 1/2 hr job) and went out for a drive. It may sound ridiculous and tight a... to most, but the soft feel while manipulating the indicator is so much better. It returns to neutral with just a touch of my little vinger.