how about an SC exhaust on a 73? That's what I found on my car when I bought it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/engine%20out.jpg

Stories abound. I work on my own car, thank you very much, not just to save money, but also to make sure the job is done right. Sometimes I botch the job, but at least I can get forgiveness.

There are no clamps or zip-ties on the small ends of my CV boots, and the big end has a metal flange. The big end is the only end you really need to worry about. If the big end is just pulled over the CV joint and held there with a clamp, then a fat zip-tie will probably work alright. Metal is better.

I did mine with the metal bands and they did not hold. But, I did not have a way of crimping it properly so I went back in and re-cleaned, re-packed and then put ty-wraps on. I spoke with a few on this board and local P-car shops and thats what was recommended.

The generic ty-raps sold at auto parts stores *are* pretty whimpy.
I used some heavy-duty black nylon ones as used in the electrical trades. They won't ever let go!

Sheet metal workers clamp round flex duct to round spigots using very large zipties. They are about 2.5 feet long and nearly a half inch wide. Perhaps three or four mm thick. I trust them.

The Lobro rebuild kits (boots, grease, clamps) from Pelican come with metal bands that you can put on and tighten without special tools. While a band tightener would be ideal, I used channel locks very successfully.

Super - I disagree that the small end does not have a clamp. Both the rebuild kits and the OEM replacement half shafts have clamps on both sides of each booth.

Well, perhaps I should clamp the small ends, but I've been leaving them unclamped in various cars for quite a few years. If I clamp them, it will be to keep dirt out. The reason I don't feel this burning urge is that grease does not escape from the small end, even though I basically FILL the boot with grease when I repack CV joints.

And then there is the other philosophy of CV joint maintenance. Some folks button them up, and leave them alone until they are heard clicking, are inspected and found to have a torn boot, and just replace them. Or ignore the clicking and just drive until you need a tow truck to get home. I just repack them every few years.

never underestimate the power of zip ties and duct tape. Ask any key grip...

I did a repack on the right inner CV joint on my car (boot was torn WIDE OPEN). The PO didn't use clamps on the small end on any of the joints so I figured it would be OK to continue that way.

I was young and believed anyone who had a title was an expert back in the days when I first came to Chicago from SoCal. I wanted an open car but couldn't afford one, so I decided a sunroof was the way to go.

Everyone I talked to said "don't do it" because they had horror stories of their leaking, flawed installations by local shops.

I worked on boats as a kid, and felt I could figure out how to waterproof something, but I was scared. Why? because the shop employees were "experts" and I wasn't. Still, I figured that I'd take more care than anyone else, and that I'd keep working on the roof until I was satisfied.

I worried and agonized - and then finally took up a sabre saw and cut a hole in the roof of my VW Scirocco and put in the Sears sunroof with a bit of extra waterproofing. The rusult? No leaks - ever.

My wife was so happy she had me put on in her van. (Neighbor came by with all the screeching of the sabre saw and saw me on top of the van cutting a hole in the car and said "did you two have a fight?" LOL).

A bit of Emerson proven here - don't be fooled by titles or reputations - and never trust the experts unless you know for a fact that they are experts! You can do more than you think you can.

I had my car inspected at a local SoCal Porsche shop; I knew the clutch was bad, and they gave me some other odds and ends. I also specifically told them that my wife would be driving it, so I wanted ot make sure it was safe. No problems except the clutch and some other minor things, they said.

So I take it back to get the clutch done TWO WEEKS later, and also get a tune up. When I pick the car up, they tell me the shocks are bad, the brakes are bad, and they can do it all for ONLY 3000.00.

I guess I paid 250.00 for a leak-down test.

And NO, I did not have THEM do the work.

Regarding clamps on the inside of the CV joint boots. The half shafts changed sometime between 1973 and 1976. The '73's use metal clamping rings on the inside cuff (small end) and on the '76 the shafts have ridges that run around the shaft and the parts catalog show the '76 boots without clamps on the inside cuffs. The ridges on the newer half shafts tend to stretch the cuff and effect a seal without a clamp. NAPA sells the metal CV joint boot clamps. Jim

I've heard of putting 2 clamps on each end, so the big part are counter--balanced. May be negligable though.

I run into the same problem last month. I ended up asked the shop to replace the complete CV joint or $199 each side instead of repack and reseal. It's much easier and you get a brand new part.

Hey Doug... do you know who carries the tie wraps w/the stainless lock, instead of the plastic inner lock.. I have a few from the telephone company...

and I like the small end of my CV boots to breathe..............Ron

One thing to say: http://www.101projects.com - the book was written for people just like you!

-Wayne

Matt (Typical Fish),

The real question is, were the shocks, brakes, etc really bad, or were they just trying to drum up more business?

Shocks iffy, brakes were fine. They also did not bother to tell me the car was so far out of alignment that one of the front tires was bald (showig ply) for 2 inches in from the inside face.

As silly as it may sound, it ticks me off that I asked them to look it over specifically because my wife was going to be driving it and I was concerned about having her in a 20 year old car. Incredible.

Funny you would say that Wayne; I bought your book at the Borders here in Long Beach about 2 days later for that very reason. It was a godsend. (I would have ordered it from Pelican, but I needed the instant gratification).

Ron,
The ones we use in the electrical industry are made by Thomas & Betts. I think they invented the "Ty-Rap" as a matter of fact.
They have the SS locking tang as you mentioned. And the nylon they are made of is UV resistant, and stays flexible. There are many sizes available.

Any good electrical contractors supply has T&B products.