Stuck removing T fuel line - engine in. Need help
 

Hi All,

I've read a bunch of posts on replacing the fuel lines, many people do it with the engine in and intake manifolds still on. I have the T disconnected and the rear one between the rails already out. I can't fish the T out, though. I've gotten it past the fuel pressure regulator on the left side, but how do I get the thing out of the engine? It's loose in there, ready to be pulled. I've removed the heater blower gubbins and the AFM and air cleaner box and I can get my hands back there just fine. Have removed some other hoses, too.

Where I'm stuck is trying to either pull the hose out from the back (which I don't think is going to happen because how can you not bend the metal tube?) or pull it through the front (but I can't get the rear hoses between the fan cover and bottom of the intake. I bought the complete set from Griffith so the new one is also stiff - not sure how to get that one in when I'm ready....which is another question...

I want to keep the engine in because I'm not equipped to drop it. I'm willing to remove one intake manifolds side, but many people have done it with those in place.

Thanks for the help!
Mark

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602356260.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602356260.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602356260.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602356260.jpg

Just my opinion from having done this job:

Remove the intake manifold. Get 12 gaskets and order the 6 plastic spacers that are likely warped or cracked. It takes less than an hour to take the intake manifold off, even if this is the first time your doing it. At the current state of disassembly, you could have it off in 30 minutes.

Its false economy thinking your saving time by not taking off the intake.

You can easily get out of hand with the 'while your in there' items when you take the intake off. At a minimum, inspect the 3 common leak points from the breather / oil pressure switch / thermostat and check your vacuum lines. Also I would just replace the rubber coupler between the left and right intake manifold...its inexpensive. Also take the fan shroud off and vacuum up any leaves or rodent droppings that may be on top of your engine.

When I did the replacement on my '88, I did it with the engine in and without removing the intake manifold. To do that, you have to cut the metal line so you can pull it out. Once out, I replaced the hoses with all rubber components fabricated by Len. If the Griffin unit you're planning to install has the metal tube like the original, I think you'll need to remove the intake manifold to get it in. I believe it's only the replacement units that don't use the metal pipe that can be installed without intake removal...

:)

Easiest way is to cut it like this....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602358620.jpg

It saves the T assy to be used once again as a core.

This....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602358788.jpg

Or this......

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602359015.jpg

can easily be installed without removing the intake.

Len.Cummings at verizon.net

:)

Update. I was able to fish it out through the rear left, but ended up bending the metal tube, which is OK since I'm buying a new one.

Len! I tried to reach you to purchase the flexible version, but didn't hear back so I'm getting the Griffiths. Rats!

So the intake manifold removal, is it really only another 30 minutes? I've pulled them on BMW's, I just don't know what I'm up against with these.
- can I just remove one side and get the job done?
- Is it only the gaskets I need? What about injector seals, or do you leave those in??
- what are the torque spec's, and procedure (cross?)?

I did notice a leak at the pressure switch (if that's what it is - front right of the motor) And the big tube seems wet. I'm hemorrhaging money right now which needs to stop for a while....but that oil leak would be nice to fix

To get the short "J" out, do you remove the fuel pressure regulator, or try to put it on with that in place (behind the engine?)

I bought the Griffin hoses and so the intake manifold had to come off the right side. That is not so bad, except that the intake manifold gaskets were welded to the heads and removing those took a **** load of time as well as careful chipping away at the gasket with chisels. That was not the most satisfying part of the job.

What parts did you need, and what/how did you torque it back on?
Do you just unbolt and pull it off, or do you have to remove the fuel rail and injectors or anything? I need to get a Bentleys', I know, but need to get this fellow up and running.

It's been a while since I changed out the hoses, but I'm thinking I had to remove the regulator to get the hose on. If I recall, it wasn't that big of a problem although many opt not to replace the hose as they think it's too much of a headache.

The temp sensor on the breather cap can easily be broken in the process of getting the L shaped metal line out and back in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602457343.jpg

Where is this located? I have the line out - but want to check that I didn't break anything.

On the breather cap, angled leftward.

Thanks. I checked it out and it looks fine. I appreciate the advice, thank you.

(sorry this is a terrible picture, but you can see it in the upper middle of the picture)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602465643.jpg

There is a bracket in the middle rear that holds the lines off the engine. It unscrews with a small alan wrench. I did mine a few months ago and cut the old lined into pieces and got it out. Somehow managed to get the new lines in intact. If I had to do over again I think I would take the whole intake off. It was a big PITA but doable.

Chris
89 Carrera

Yea,

No way I would try taking that “T” line without taking the entire plenum out!

When I replaced all the fuel lines, I took it all off which gave me the opportunity to clean and replace what was needed. This gives you an insight of how the intake valves look like and the state of the plastic insulator gaskets in between the plenum, which do become brittle.