Oil Cooler Baffling!

[ClickClickBoom]

Hey,
I installed a Lemke Turbotrol oil cooler a few weeks ago, difference in oil temps was amazing! I was curious as to how the air would be forced to go through the cooler vs around it, since there was no impediment to prevent it from bypassing the cooler. I whipped out some scrap aluminum, silicone rubber baffle material, a few pop rivets and time. I fabbed a blocking baffle to fit on the rear face of the cooler and a floor to route the air from the valence openings and cool scoop. here ya go:



A spritz of flat black and there ya go!
eric
P.S. Driving impressions, at lower speeds, the cooling isn't quite as good, above 45 MPH, cooling is more stable, after pulling hard the temps drop faster and on the freeway the cruise temps at 65 MPH are 5F lower.

[Cire]

How hard was it to get the oil lines over the the rear wheel well? Is there a kit with the 2 hoses needed? What about connecting them to your tank (did they go to the tank)... Any issues.

Would love to see more pictures. You like the results? Do anything different?

Eric

[jcc911]

I too have a Turbotrol that I have yet to install. I also do not have any of the mounting brackets, so would be delighted to see how you have it mounted to the inner fender.

Any interest in fabricating another one of your baffle set-ups?

[Cire]

I would be interesting in purchasing as well. LOL Its neat that you can come to a chat board for a job. = )

Anyone else out there want to get one? Cheaper by the dozen? LOL = )

1977 911s

Eric

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by Cire

How hard was it to get the oil lines over the the rear wheel well? Is there a kit with the 2 hoses needed? What about connecting them to your tank (did they go to the tank)... Any issues.

Would love to see more pictures. You like the results? Do anything different?

Eric

Hey,
One at a time! The cooler uses the stock OEM hard lines, the short lines came with the cooler.
Cooler works great, search other posts by me for install and driving impressions!
Hola
eric

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by jcc911

I too have a Turbotrol that I have yet to install. I also do not have any of the mounting brackets, so would be delighted to see how you have it mounted to the inner fender.

Any interest in fabricating another one of your baffle set-ups?

See my previous posts for mounting details, the cooler uses one existing bolt and another has to be drilled.
To be honest, the baffle is very basic and requires time, and not much skill. Install the cooler then cut and trim some cardboard to make a template, get some aluminum and a jig saw, hand drill and get busy. I added some unnecessary details, mostly because I could. To be honest the Turbotrol is fine without the baffle, the baffle just adds(subtracts) degrees of cooling above 45MPH. Below 45MPH the cooling is slightly less.
Hola
eric

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by Cire

I would be interesting in purchasing as well. LOL Its neat that you can come to a chat board for a job. = )

Anyone else out there want to get one? Cheaper by the dozen? LOL = )

1977 911s

Eric

Hey,
I have more work in my home shop than I can handle, I post this stuff to encourage people to get out and do it for themselves. I bill $80.00 per hour for custom fabrication, most of my skills were self taught/learned. Aluminum works just like wood, ash or walnut, pop rivets are stupid easy. I mounted the aluminum to the cooler with self tapping sheetmetal screws. For me to produce these I think they would cost $300.00 for the Rev. 1 model.
Do it yourself, much more satisfying! Post up progress flicks!
eric
P.S. Due to severe ADD, prototyping custom stuff is what I do best.

[ClickClickBoom]

I do have a question, though. If a duct were routed to the front of the Turbotrol and it was sealed so all the air were forced through the oil cooler, what diameter would be required to have a sufficient quantity of air through the cooler. Second question, would a 4" diameter scoop on the front area of the valence, with a similar sized hose to the front of the cooler be sufficient? Too much, too little? I am thinking out loud. Making a baffle to fit the front of the cooler would be easy and quicker than my design. Only downside would be a cooling air opening in the valence, about the size of a foglight. Common you engineers can throw some calqs into your head and produce something!
eric
I am thinking a converging-divergent duct to collect, speed up and convert said air to pressure at the front of the cooler. In other words, a funnel in the front and one in the back. So the tubing can be smaller.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

I do have a question, though. If a duct were routed to the front of the Turbotrol and it was sealed so all the air were forced through the oil cooler,what diameter would be required to have a sufficient quantity of air through the cooler. Second question, would a 4" diameter scoop on the front area of the valence,

As large as possible, but if impractical it's better to locate the inlet, or even the oil cooler itself, in a high pressure area, typically near the middle of the front end.

with a similar sized hose to the front of the cooler be sufficient? Too much, too little? I am thinking out loud. Making a baffle to fit the front of the cooler would be easy and quicker than my design. Only downside would be a cooling air opening in the valence, about the size of a foglight. Common you engineers can throw some calqs into your head and produce something!

I'm thinking an intake opening as large as practical. If smaller than the oil cooler, expand the passage (i.e. cone-shaped) so air flows smoothly to the target. Some applications require a smallish hose to reach the target area (e.g. brake caliper-rotor). In those cases, some use an air boost from an inline marine bilge fan. Air ducts have max. efficiency when there are minimal bends in the air path.

I am thinking a converging-divergent duct to collect, speed up and convert said air to pressure at the front of the cooler. In other words, a funnel in the front and one in the back. So the tubing can be smaller.

I think the exit space should have the least amount of restriction as possible to allow max. air flow away from the cooler. Increasing and decreasing airflow via passage shape is good to increase vehicle downforce as in ground effects, not necessarily the case when there's a lump (cooler) in the air passage.

Sorry, that's the limit of my laminar air flow calcs. One of Ricardo's tomes on auto engineering might cover that.

On a more practical level, one of Carroll Smith's books on race engineering. I'd get them all. Good stuff.

Carroll Smith Books . The Official Carroll Smith Site

The shroud you fabricated is an excellent solution to direct all the available air to the cooler in an area that's pretty much shrouded by bodywork. Many owners sandwich a push fan to increase air flow when vehicle speed is low and/or ambient temps. are high. OTOH, road trash thrown off the tire can build up and block air flow. Some owners use a louvered shield or screen to minimize.

Nature's way of blocking inlet airflow:


Sherwood

[stownsen914]

Actually, bigger isn't always better when ducting air to a cooler. Assuming you have a proper exit for the air, believe it or not, about 1/2 the size of the cooler is about right. The full size of the cooler (like a typical installation in an RSR type spoiler) is fine, just not necessary. Air slows down like 75% when it enters the cooler, so less air is sufficient to fully cool. Have a look at the front of a NASCAR stocker - small opening for a large radiator.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by stownsen914

Actually, bigger isn't always better when ducting air to a cooler. Assuming you have a proper exit for the air, believe it or not, about 1/2 the size of the cooler is about right. The full size of the cooler (like a typical installation in an RSR type spoiler) is fine, just not necessary. Air slows down like 75% when it enters the cooler, so less air is sufficient to fully cool. Have a look at the front of a NASCAR stocker - small opening for a large radiator.

(revised)
Yeah, but don't race cars go a little faster than a street car? I'm wagering they, like most race cars, need typical race pace to push air to where it's needed.

[stownsen914]

At moderate street speeds, I'm sure you are correct that ducting [edit] additional air will help.

[1979-930]

Why would you answer questions from 11 years ago?

Originally Posted by 911pcars

As large as possible, but if impractical it's better to locate the inlet, or even the oil cooler itself, in a high pressure area, typically near the middle of the front end.

I'm thinking an intake opening as large as practical. If smaller than the oil cooler, expand the passage (i.e. cone-shaped) so air flows smoothly to the target. Some applications require a smallish hose to reach the target area (e.g. brake caliper-rotor). In those cases, some use an air boost from an inline marine bilge fan. Air ducts have max. efficiency when there are minimal bends in the air path.

I think the exit space should have the least amount of restriction as possible to allow max. air flow away from the cooler. Increasing and decreasing airflow via passage shape is good to increase vehicle downforce as in ground effects, not necessarily the case when there's a lump (cooler) in the air passage.

Sherwood

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by 1979-930

Why would you answer questions from 11 years ago?

Dunno, but thanks. I didn't notice the post date, but it appeared in my email toward the top, thus my response.

I hope his issues have been resolved.... by now.

S

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by 1979-930

Why would you answer questions from 11 years ago?

Because the question/comments are as valid today as they were then. Aerodynamics are necessary answer/solution to many of common problems many cars experiencing.
Don’t think so? Here:
https://youtu.be/FAeXfg5GoVI