Help needed please! Trying to re-install the axle and it won't spin..
 

Happy Sunday All, just ran into a snag with my first real repair on my 79' SC. Last weekend I removed the right rear axle to replace the torn boot. Disassembled the joint, cleaned everything up and came back to it today. All greased up and fit back into place. Bolts inserted and axle feels like it's in the right place. Worked my way around the inboard side tightening but not torqueing the bolt and moved to the outboard side. As I tighten the nuts I notice it is becoming more difficult to freely spin the axle and if I tighten any of the bolts all the way (pre-torque) the axle will not spin at all by hand. Parking brake is disengaged and transmission is in neutral. Anyone able to offer advice as to what I might have done wrong?

I stopped tightening bolts when I realized the axle stopped spinning to ask advice on the board. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603044304.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603044304.jpg

CV joint bolts too long and contacting the transmission or the rear hub housing?

Fanaudical, I think you're right. I just had the same thought and pulled out the one of the new ones supplied by our host and compared it to one of the originals. Is this enough of a difference? Black ones are obviously the originals.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603045097.jpg

It could also make a difference if you have changed your boots from the old type with thick steel flanges to the new ones with thin pressed steel flanges. You probably gain five or six millimetres and so the bolt will protrude out of the other side further and bind on the casing.

Well I swapped out to the old bolts and she's spinning nicely now. Heading in to torque them now but there are different specs for the M8 and the M10 bolt and I have no idea which the original black bolts are. Can anyone tell me if the smaller black one is an M8 or M10?

According to my PP receipt the new longer ones they sent me are #20 8 x 50mm. Hopefully that might help one of you smart guys ID the shorter black original bolts?

Just noticed in your pics - I don't see any "keeper plates" or lock washers under the heads of your bolts. I recommend looking at the PET and making sure you have all the required hardware. Losing a CV bolt can make for a bad day...

Agree completely as you have the newer style boots with pressed steel flanges. If you don’t use plates you can deform the flange by applying too much pressure over a small area which can lead to the bolt coming loose at some stage. The half moon plates with a Schnorr washer are probably your best option although others will add their opinions.

I posted about that very issue on a previous thread and didn't get much of a response but they original assembly did not have any washers or moon plates so I thought it all right to continue as was. It would be easy enough to make the addition. I even asked the parts assistant on PP and they said there was no such part for my car. I realize after the fact that they must have been referring to original specs. I would love to add the moon plates and schnorr washer but I'm not sure which size washers to order? I'll bet the newer bolts that are too long might be perfect but I' do not know for sure. Wish I knew what to torque these original bolts. I'm thinking I'll go with the M8 spec of 30ft-lb to avoid over torque. If anyone can tell me what size Schnoor washer to purchase and which bolts correspond to the plate/ washer assembly I would be very appreciative.

M8x50 is spec in the PET. No washers
M10x50 in their application with half moons
Bruce

Thanks Bruce. The M10x50 will work with half moons AND washers? Do you happen to know the spec for the washers?
Thanks!

Here are the parts 20, 21, 22.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603064233.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603064233.jpg

M8 is the bolt diameter. That is what you have. So any washers you decide to have will also be 8mm.

That's awesome! Very much appreciated!

Didn't read the CV Reconstruction thread did you? The one thread on this entire interwebz thread, that should be read. You could have saved yourself some grief.

And buy a Bentley manual, it’ll have all the specs and details you’ll need to work in the car. It’ll save you a lot of trouble be reading ahead, understanding what’s required and planning for parts, etc.


CTopher

Another safeguard to give you piece of mind on the bolt tightness is after you torque them down take a colored paint pen and make an alignment mark on the bolt and flange. If one loosens up on you then you would have a quick visual indication it has moved. Easy to periodically take a quick look and see they are still good. Also I’ve read a good tip to recheck the torque after the first 100 miles.

The 10X50 need to match up with the Turbo shafts, your holes are too small (8 mm). As such there is no need for washers. I've never used them, and they were not present when I did my joints. Car has 117 K miles.

No washers or plates on mine either.

Hi Click, Yes I read the thread and absorbed as much of it as I could. This is my first experience working on cars of any kind so I struggle to follow alot of what is said on this thread but I'm enjoying the learning process. Only info I could get from our host was that the plates and washers aren't for my model year and since there weren't any there when I took it apart I thought it would be ok to replace as it was.