Which epoxy did you use for your
 

garage floor? Would you use it again? Pics?

Shaun, Look into concrete polish or finishing. There are some penetrating sealers that are more durable than epoxy coatings.

Thanks Jamie, I will do some research. This is for a paint shop we are pouring on Monday.

A friend that has concrete finishing business says to cure the concrete normally and then use a sealer/densifier product. He likes "Seal Hard" or any sodium silicate or lithium silicate.

Make sure the concrete finishers put a smooth finish in place. Will save you from having to polish later.

I used linseed oil mixed with mineral spirits to seal the floor of my studio. I compared dozens of products and after reading a lot of literature I settled on this coating as it’s non toxic (compared to other products), easy to apply, waterproof and can be reapplied to revitalize the finish. Historically linseed oil was used to seal concrete all over the world.

i used rockrez very happy with it. I did not use to color chips that came with it though, if you've ever dropped a small part and then tried to find it on a speckled floor you can understand why.

I used a so called polyaspartic polyurea coating. Similar finish to epoxy, but a one part multi-coat process. Solid gray, no chips. Seems pretty tough, but it’s only been down for a month. I did it myself, but would never do it again. Horrendous fumes. You can’t even stand near an open container without a respirator, and the smell hung around for two weeks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604731033.jpg

Stupid trick to find small dropped parts...

Lay a flashlight on the ground. Anything on the ground will cast a huge shadow which makes anything easy to find.

Stupid speckled floor indeed...looks great otherwise, super hard and cleans up transmission fluid my 240z likes to drop easily with no staining. I wouldn't go speckled again for obvious reasons.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604813799.jpg

Hey Shaun.

I used a solid polyespartic Along with a UV top coat. Pretty durable from oils etc. Just don’t drag a Jack with metal wheels across it.


https://www.garagecoatings.com/company/5085-polyaspartic-2-gal.asp

I did my home shop with it.
2yrs and counting.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604816020.jpg

I have a beautiful black and white speckled floor. What a mistake! I'm actually scared of dropping any small parts. It just becomes a chore to find them. Yes I do find them, but the extra time and effort is not worth the "look". Wish I had a nice solid color.

My floor is a two layer. First, seals against moisture. Second, provides a very hard surface and includes the plastic chips. The sealer has worked very well. The pad is thin (< 4") and very poorly poured. Also, there is lots of water running underneath (Pacific Northwest, glacial till hill side). The floor is a huge improvement, without the extra humidity, dampness.

Shaun,
Just my opinions here and thoughts on to coat or not. I think it depends very much on the use of the floor, heated space or not and weather in the area. If the space is limited to storage, epoxy looks and works well. If it is a major work area where welding and grinding, painting, jacks and jack stands, engine drop location and in general significant restoration type of work I would not epoxy the floor ( I do all of the above in my shop).
A second issue I had a friend run into here on the coast of Maine is major condensation on the sealed floor resulting in very slippery conditions. This would not be a problem for a well heated space. My friend regrets sealing the floor. I have never had this problem in my shop/barn with an uncoated concrete floor.

EDIT:
I read your post above that you plan to use it as a painting area. Use of the area for painting will result in the floor being painted, multi colored most likely due to overspray drips and spills. Wiping down the floor immediately after painting would certainly be easier with a coated floor.

Has anyone tried G-Floor mats as an alternative to epoxy? All of the products mentioned so far in this thread seem to have similar issues with floor prep, application technique and longevity.

I've done five garage floors.

I've come to trust Premier Garage's offering. My latest...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjckzGyg_M9/?igshid=oiam0aflmj1k

Have you looked into Penntek coatings?

Advantages:
Done in one day.
Does not chip like epoxy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the great replies, lot of follow-up research in the next two weeks while the concrete cures. Pouring now. Pic from earlier.

This will be a paint shop but I also want ultimate durability and long life. Floor like the walls will be white.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604938026.jpg

A good concrete floor coating has 90% to do with the guy doing the work and 10% the products selected. I have done dozens for my former employer for Aircraft Hanger and Shop floors.

In any case you will need to wait 30-60 days for the concrete to cure properly before coating.

If you want to go with a floor that will outlast your house, ask the guy to use this specification:

https://www.wbdg.org/FFC/DOD/UFGS/UFGS%2009%2067%2023.15.pdf

And if you want the Rolls Royce, use this one:

https://www.wbdg.org/FFC/DOD/UFGS/UFGS%2009%2067%2023.16.pdf

Jeez man.. what size is that "home shop?" Love it! IS that a pole-barn or ???

Thx

My Dream realized. 45x60 =2700sqft with a 16x20 mezzanine.
I have 3 air cooled cars I’m building and I’m using most of the shop. I was hoping to make room to partition off a part for woodworking but no dice.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605113237.jpg

Ahh yes... I remember this picture from another thread. Simply beautiful! There is nothing like proper work-space. Thanks for posting again!