keying key blank to bonnet / trunk lock and glove box lock?

[sbrown.nw]

Hi everyone. I tried a search for this but didn't find much.

I don't know the entire history of my car but at one time a new ignition was put in and I only have a key for it and not the doors, glove box and trunk / bonnet lock as I have a targa. I don't care about the doors as I would probably not lock my car in most / all situations given the targa top is much more expensive to repair than anything I may have in the car. But I would like to have a working key for the glove box and trunk lock, assuming they are the originals. Is it possible to have a locksmith make one of these (basically a valet key) for these two locks? Has anyone done this before?

TIA,

Scott

[darrin]

Scott - might be easier/more straightforward to have a locksmith re-pin the tumblers in your door /hood / glove box locks to match the pins in your ignition lock. While I hear you on not locking doors, around here thieves like to pop door handles for open doors and then use an open door as an excuse to rummage through (and be destructive to) a car's interior (i.e. crowbar the glove box open BEFORE even checking to see if it's locked, crowbar out radio/etc. I'd rather have my car pass the locked door test than not.

[GH85Carrera]

My car still has all original locks. The black key will work on the doors, ignition, the trunk lock and the glove box lock. And I use all of them. The red key only works on the doors and ignition.

You should be able to go to a dealer with your title and have them cut you a new key, or order it to fit any original lock. That would get you in everything but the ignition. I think it is possible to re-key the ignition lock if it is removed.

[salayc]

There's a tutorial on Pelican How Tos. It takes a little time, and the tumblers can be stubborn, but it can be done. I just finished my door locks to match ignition.

[86 911 Targa]

I agree with two of the posters.
Our '86 Targa has black key for all locations
except for the rear seat delete.

For the RSD, I had a shop replace
the wafers in the two locks.

Your black key should work as described.

Best,

Gerry

[HarryD]

It is not difficult to remove the tumblers from the doors, glove box and Frunk lock. I had a local locksmith rekey these to match my ignition key. Not terribly expensive.

[darrin]

Originally Posted by HarryD

It is not difficult to remove the tumblers from the doors, glove box and Frunk lock. I had a local locksmith rekey these to match my ignition key. Not terribly expensive.

this -- I'd avoid messing with the ignition lock

[HarryD]

This old post shows the differences between the regular and Valet key. The Cuts are the same. Note the grooves in the two keys.

Originally Posted by fintstone

Same thickness, just cut a little differently. Sorry about the poor quality of the cell phone photo. Original '74 master and valet key:

[sbrown.nw]

Originally Posted by HarryD

It is not difficult to remove the tumblers from the doors, glove box and Frunk lock. I had a local locksmith rekey these to match my ignition key. Not terribly expensive.

Any links how to do this?

[darrin]

Googling "remove tumbler from 911 door handle," I found this tech article https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_lock_rekey/mult_lock_rekey.htm -- looks to be pretty straightforward

[76FJ55]

The ignition lock is no harder than the doors to rekey. This is the path I took with my 84 after I got it. it came with the original keys which worked everything but the ignition. It also had Porsche supplied keys for the replacement ignition. I chose to rekey the ignition, as that way the original key code for the car would still be correct, plus that way I only had to rekey one cylinder instead of four. I also created a key for the missing alarm key. You can see the thread here, and the same process could be used to create a key for your missing door, GB and trunk key if necessary.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by 76FJ55

The ignition lock is no harder than the doors to rekey. This is the path I took with my 84 after I got it. it came with the original keys which worked everything but the ignition. It also had Porsche supplied keys for the replacement ignition. I chose to rekey the ignition, as that way the original key code for the car would still be correct, plus that way I only had to rekey one cylinder instead of four. I also created a key for the missing alarm key. You can see the thread here, and the same process could be used to create a key for your missing door, GB and trunk key if necessary.

Rekeying the lock is not hard, it is removing the lock assembly from the car to be able to access the tumbler which is hard. If the assembly is not installed yet, I would agree that rekeying one to the original code is better than rekeying the others.

[76FJ55]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Rekeying the lock is not hard, it is removing the lock assembly from the car to be able to access the tumbler which is hard. If the assembly is not installed yet, I would agree that rekeying one to the original code is better than rekeying the others.

What is so difficult in removing it from the car? I agree there are a couple shear head bolts that need to be removed, but a Dremel with cutoff wheel will slot the heads in the matter of a few seconds then you just use a flat blade screwdriver and turn them out.

[kamaro]

In the Pelican Parts article, they show a "re-keying kit", they show it in this pic :



I have searched everywhere for this kit but I could not find it, do I need this kit to re-key my door key cylinders to match my ignition key?

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by kamaro

In the Pelican Parts article, they show a "re-keying kit", they show it in this pic :



I have searched everywhere for this kit but I could not find it, do I need this kit to re-key my door key cylinders to match my ignition key?

FWIW, When I asked my locksmith where do you get the wafers and other parts, he smiled and said, bring the cylinder to me.

To my way of thinking, At $40 each it is not a skill I need to learn.