CV Boot replacement this weekend

[Tommy Z]

Hi Guys, I have seen quite a bit of articles and posts so feeling pretty good about tackling this one. Can anyone tell me what size driver I need to remove the axel nut so I can drop the shaft to access the CV Joint? At least I got the cotter pin out, now I just need to go buy the correct driver.

Thanks!

[Tommy Z]

Sorry. Forgot to add it’s a 79’ SC. Thanks

[pete3799]

No need to remove the axle nut on a 79SC.
6mm allen wrench is all you need.

[Tommy Z]

Thanks Pete,
I see that after a little more research the axel nut doesn't have to come off, but does that make it alot more difficult to re-connect the freshly re-greased and assembled joint back on the outer stub axel? I was directed to the Grady Clay CV thread and now I'm feeling even less sure of myself. My CV joints do not have any Moon Clips or locking washers. When I check with PP it says" These parts may not fit your car". 101 projects doesn't mention the clips and washers so I'm unsure if I need them. Honestly in reading that thread I am only comprehending about 40% as I'm really not familiar with all the terms and technical jargon. I hope with every project I attempt I will learn more.

This project is my first real foray into actually removing and disassembling something on the car so I just don't want to struggle to get it back together. Would it be smarter for me to remove the axel nut so the joint to outer stub is easier? If I can't re-torque the axel nut at home is it safe to drive it to a shop to have it torqued? Is it a mistake to install the joint again without the clips and washers?

Any advice is appreciated.

[sugarwood]

You like to make sure you're not biting off more than you can chew.
I feel your pain, and can relate.

Unfortunately, these old 911s are very poorly documented.
Despite a popular forum, there is almost zero actual DIY video or photos.
And yes, the 101 projects book is useless for beginners, and is little more than a coffee table book.

Do not lose hope, this is an opportunity to expand your skills.
Keep searching. I have a Bentley manual if you want to access that.

Here is a CV axle write up that may help
Figure out how to read article #20
Goldmine of Air Cooled DIY articles

[Tommy Z]

Thanks Sugarwood, you're always kind enough to answer one of my silly questions. Yes, I read that articles. His whole blog is awesome. It's the best I've found as he really does a good job with documentation. I found a video on Youtube that was really helpful from someone who had posted it here on PP.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9jqNo6zWzE&list=WL&index=2

This video made me feel like I could do this repair. I wish there were more of them. After reading the Grady Clay thread regarding this I watched this video and wondered why he took of the axel nut but I think now he had it right and that I'm going to do the same thing so I can work on re-greasing the joint on my bench. In the video it seems as though the guy wasn't particularly worried about keeping the bolt threads clean so I'll probably be a little more careful but I think I'm going this route. I can always take it somewhere for proper torqueing when I'm done.

[Flat6pac]

If you remove the axel nut, you also have to remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock to clear the CV from the trailing arm.
The axel nut has some 350 ft# torque and the bottom of the shock has a couple hundred ft #;on it.
It is easier on the table.
Keep 2 bolts through the CV and rubber along the trans side so the CV doesn’t fall apart. If it does fall apart that is a completely new challenge
Bruce

[Tommy Z]

Thanks Bruce, As it turned out I left the axel nut in place. I have the axel out now and I'm going to protect the inside joint as it has no problems while I dismantle the outer one and remove the boot.

Feeling a small amount of success just having gotten it out!

[pete3799]

If you have a spare jack stand use it to support one end of the shaft while you line up the other side on reassembly.

[donbecker1234]

I can’t speak to the early cars, but I just did the CV’s on my 87 930 and I ditched the moon clips and used new Stage 8 locking fasteners. Some have reported the CV bolts backing out, and several of my original bolts were loose. Maybe overkill for a Street car but the piece of mind for me was worth the extra $$$

[Flat6pac]

Too clean, you need more axel grease on the table
Bruce

[Tommy Z]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Too clean, you need more axel grease on the table
Bruce

LOL! I'm sure there will be as soon as I can get this stupid snap ring off! I bought a cheap snap ring tool from Autozone and it clearly sucked cuz it fell apart when I first tried to use. I'll pick up a better one and tackle the rest next weekend. Disassemble, clean and reassemble the joint and grease is all on the schedule for Saturday. Hopefully all goes well and I'm back on the road next Sunday!

[smadsen]

Don't forget four new paper gaskets, one to seal each end of the CV joint to the axle. Also, it helps to have an assistant compress & hold the axle in place while you insert a couple allen screws in each joint. Otherwise it can gets very messy.

[Ctopher]

And you might as well do both since you have it out. Would suck having to pull it again to do the other side.

[Robey5]

This job: while MESSY is not that bad.

My POV:

Go ahead and pull the other side, and repack the CV over there was well.

Don’t forget the gaskets; and the torque process on the Allen bolts requires that you are clean with the grease and such (ie: get some q-tips ready).

What I did was grab some butchers paper and put it on the bench (taped down) with 2 layers, and I threw away every single rag I used for the job. I also doubled up on the nitrile gloves so that I did not have a mess under my nails.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

LOL! I'm sure there will be as soon as I can get this stupid snap ring off! I bought a cheap snap ring tool from Autozone and it clearly sucked cuz it fell apart when I first tried to use. I'll pick up a better one and tackle the rest next weekend. Disassemble, clean and reassemble the joint and grease is all on the schedule for Saturday. Hopefully all goes well and I'm back on the road next Sunday!

Snap ring pliers are a tool you should spend for quality
I have a pair of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TG80SY/

[Tommy Z]

I have an important question for you guys. I am concerned about the lack of moon plates and Schnorr washers on my assembly. There was nothing on the existing except for the bolts. I am wondering if I should at least add the washers, but can I get away with using the 8 x 50MM bolts I ordered? I'm not even sure which washers I need or where to get them? I'm trying not to over complicate the job this time since it's my first real project on the car and I'm thankful for the experience.

[nene]

I just replaced the two boots because one was torn. Upon taking all of the grease out of the torn boot, I saw that a "pit" was visible in the inner-bearing so I replaced the entire bearing unit. Once the bearing was in place and nicely greased and ready to go into the car, I tied a rope around the shaft and onto somewhere under the car for support (must do) in order to pin-point the transmission end. After that, I tightened it as much as I could and then took it to my local wrench to tightened the Allen bolts to 60lbs ft for my 86 Carrera.

Serge

[nene]

Tommy,

Check out the PET for clarification on the items needed before you add hardware that may not be needed.

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

I have an important question for you guys. I am concerned about the lack of moon plates and Schnorr washers on my assembly. There was nothing on the existing except for the bolts. I am wondering if I should at least add the washers, but can I get away with using the 8 x 50MM bolts I ordered? I'm not even sure which washers I need or where to get them? I'm trying not to over complicate the job this time since it's my first real project on the car and I'm thankful for the experience.

[mike sampsel]

I had a heck of a time getting the shaft back on the axel stub, while on my back and trying to line up every thing. So ... I removed the axel stub, my shock bolts are only torqued to 110 ft pounds and spin right off. Serious breaker bar needed to release the Axel nut though. Bruce told me to put a screw driver in the rotor to keep it from moving. A helper on the brakes can work too.

No moon plates or schnorr washers on my 78. CV joints this way for 18 K miles, I do not think they come with the SC's.
Seems 50 mm will work, I've some of each (50 and 55 mm) for my next go of the CV joints.

FYI PET has M8-50 for the SC. (Not so easy to find if you misspell axle axel ... doh)

The schorr's (abd moon plates) are for the 10 mm bolts, I.E. the turbo.