Yes to all of the above

I removed it (pain in the butt ) verified that is was working when voltage applied with power probe. Long cranks happen cold or warm., it does not get any colder than 75 degrees down here:)

Hi Tony,

I did a smoke test at the beginning but it will be a good idea to do again.
I have not verified the injector pattern, they are new with the exeption of the CSV. One thing I notice is that I can not use the typical CSV base with the AAR valve hose connection. It will not fit. The car had the hose port blocked off and I had to do the same for the new one. So the CSV does not have a direct air supply at the injector connection. that hose is going into the intake. See pic below.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1608850176.jpg

Here is a video of what happens sometimes.

https://youtube.com/shorts/xi5c9DS-gjg

After that I went inside for about one hour and when I tried again it started right up in 1/2 a crank
CRAZY!!!

Auxiliary Air Regulator...........
 

Ivan,

If I understood you correctly, the supplementary air from the AAR is not connected to air box but rather to the intake manifold? Do you have a picture to share? So that could be the reason your engine is grasping for air during a cold start. Are you experiencing this problem with a warm engine? Has anyone have good results using this configuration?

I am still interested to know your cold control and system pressures. Thanks.

Tony

Multiple attempts.........
 

Ivan,

From your video, I counted the number of times it took the motor to start. Six (6) was my count and that’s a lot of raw fuel delivered by the CSV in the air box. After getting the motor to run and you turned it off, could you re-start it in a single attempt?
Keep us posted. Thanks.

Tony

Does it get energized when you hit the starter? I know I had a start issue for a while until I discovered my CSV power lead was disconnected. Could be a bad connection. If you have a failed thermotime switch (not sure if your car has one, my 1973.5 does not and is energized when ever the hand throttle is fully pulled up and the starter engaged).

From: https://jimsbasementworkshop.com/CIS/pages/comp_page.html#ttswitch

Switch.
 

Ignition switch.........

External or internal connection.

What about the fuel pump check valve? Fuel could drain back towards the tank. I have had similar issues but do not have a turbo.

Does your gasoline have ethanol in it? Puerto Rico right?

Does this only happen when the engine is warm and then you try to restart after about 10 minutes? After the engine cools down the problem goes away?

Is it worse on warm days?

Is the car parked on a slight downhill slope?

Does it matter how much gas is in the tank? The problem is worse when the tank is less than half full?

Sorry for all the questions, but you may have bubbles in your lines. That's why I ask.

is your yellow relay working correctly???try to change it for red relay....and see

Ivan

Tony, here is a pic of where the AAR hose is connected.

It happens cold or warm, it makes no difference.

This morning it took several long cranks to start, then it started a couple of times quick and then it required long crank again to start.

I will re-do my system pressures as soon as I get my new set. But I used the car for a while with the gauges installed and fuel pressures were on spec for a 022 WUR.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1608896530.jpg

Both check valves are new

It can start form a single attempt but not 100% of the time.

91 Octane no ethanol, engine warm or cold.
All days are the same temp.
Car parked flat
Tank full

No yellow relay

your 930 does not have that relay or you bypassed it?
it should be here..no 4
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...r-fuse-box.gif

That one is bypassed to feed CDI no shutoff delay.

REPOST of mine from a few days ago, if it helps you then just great. If not, then maybe it will help someone else.
.................................................. .................................................. ..........

The brake booster operates off vac pressure from the intake manifold. There could be a leak in this line.

Until I can replace the line via partial engine drop I put some goop on the large flexible hose running along the firewall that connects under the car to a metal junction. My leak was near the connection under the car.

This improved both cold and hot starting.

No leaks using starting fluid method at intake manifold gasket.

I have never seen a thread on this topic.

Hose may be weak and collapsing.

You can order new hose from Pelican and cut to length.

Pictures
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1607706927.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1607706927.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1607706927.jpg

I also readjusted the fuel/air mixture for cool weather prior to this, and think that helped.

EDIT:

In short, a leak in this vacuum line path anywhere in the car will mimic an intake manifold gasket leak and may cause unpredictable starting issues.

I did not notice any braking issues until a bunch of other braking components failed, this hose leak would not have been found otherwise.

If you have boosted brakes your actual leak could be anywhere in the path from booster to engine.

I'm not sure how MFI and carbureted engines supply vacuum assistance to brake booster, my engine is CIS.