Many cut the cable and if your changing the bushings, your cable may be over due anyway. Mine came out with a lot of unique words, several breaks and a whole lot of what the f' were they thinking when they put that in ther.

OK, good progress to this point. Now the issue is getting this roll pin inserted. WTF? Got the assembly anchored well and I have a decent sight line to it but the damn thing doesn't want to go in. The wife suggested coconut oil with a grin but that won't help in this situation;). I guess using the old one is a no-no. Any tricks anyone can share?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610819208.jpg

I just did this a month ago. Inserted a pin punch from behind to make sure that everything was aligned. I then used a second pin punch that was slightly larger than the roll pin and hammered it in. It took me 30 minutes and was way less frustrating than the press of removing the roll pin which probably took over an hour of hammering.

I am not the most patient person in the world, so this was good for my personal development.

The other good news is that putting everything back in is far easier than taking it out.

I also replaced the clutch cable and got to take the car for a drive before MN became a snowy mess. What a difference and well worth the frustration.

For putting the roll pin back in, lining up the backside well is important, lube up the pin with grease, then one good smack to get it started was all it took. All in all I spent maybe five minutes on it, so maybe I was just lucky.

There's an inflection point in the arc of travel where the spring starts pulling the pedal on the opposite side of the hinge point, "pulling" it up. You can see how the centerline of the spring goes over the hinge point in the below photo.

When it's all assembled in hand it's interesting, because it turns into a mouse trap. With the pedal all the way up it stays put, but push it down just a little bit and the spring snaps it down with astounding force.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280180875.jpg

is it possible to reverse the spring for the clutch pedal (cluster)? My mechanic refurbished the pedal cluster and the clutch pedal is a hard press going down. This leads me wonder if he reversed the spring to cause this problem. Anyone?

Thanks
Bob

A spring ether pushes or pulls. In this case, it pulls. Flipping it end for end wont make it do the opposite of what is was made to do and if you look at the close up above, it cant be reversed. As mentioned above, once past the center line of the pivot point the spring pulls the pedal toward the front of the car. With the whole assembly out of the car you can easily put the spring on the pins without the nuts shown by pulling the pedal through its travel till the pins are nearest each other. I suspect you have a cable issue as I had.

I understand what your referring to now. There is little travel, because of the floor, for the spring to pull down after it passes its center line. My pedal was barely to its top of travel but as you mention, it quickly snaps the other way. I put mine back in the car as a loaded "mouse trap" to avoid fighting with it in the car and doing so deserves a word of caution to everyone. Watch your fingers.

Did you put your new parts in the freezer like I suggested a day or two ago?

Every little bit helps.

Kachi - I did. It was a bear to get in but I finally got. Everything is assembled and the cluster is re-installed. I called it a night and will resume again tomorrow if the wife doesn't mind. I've been in the garage almost all weekend and loving every minute of it!

Last tough piece of the puzzle and any help would be appreciated. Cluster is back in place and the clutch clevis isn't even close to reaching the clutch arm. It's also a little askew making it even more difficult. I'm not sure what I could have done to make this happen. Any suggestions? I suppose I could follow the instructions on replacing your clutch cable to disconnect it so it can reach the clutch arm but won't I just be passing the problem off? If it doesn't reach now I can only assume I will have shifting problems? Losing confidence and unsure where to go from here? I come so far and I'm almost there, any ideas on where to go from here would really be appreciated. Thanks.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610910342.jpg

To get the tension off the rod that is causing it to retract down into the tunnel towards the rear of the car, temporarily disconnect the helper spring under the transmission.

There is a remote chance that when you drove the devil pin in it was 180 degrees out of alignment with the clutch rod and arm flange. I came very close to making this mistake myself, it is easy to do.

Yes it caught me out once and crunched some knuckles. There's some serious power in that thing!

I can't recall exactly how I lined things back up, but it was a real pain. One thing, though, make sure the throttle rod is in the right spot as well before reconnecting the clutch clevis, or else you'll have to undo things to get it back together without binding.

Don't ask me how I know!

I'd replace the cable since you are there...it is as old as the worn out clutch arm.....and been thru as many repetitions.

I believe in retrospect that I hooked up my cable before bolting down the pedal cluster.

You may have to unbrace and unbolt.

David, that is my exact fear! I know there is a good chance with all of the attempts at trying to connect the clevis and dropping it on one side or another that the accelerator rod and clutch cable could look like a twizzler. I decided to order an endoscope to be sure so that should arrive today.

I also decided since I have to disconnect the clutch cable from the helper spring and the considering the condition of the original clevis pin and clutch arm, I should just go ahead and replace the clutch cable while I'm there. Both of which should arrive tomorrow. With any luck the clutch cable R and R will go smoother than the pedal cluster rebuild and I'll be back on the road by the end of the day Saturday!