It wasn't quite a barn find, but close

[TBone78SC]

I had been stalking a friends Porsche that he's had in storage since 1997. He finally knuckled under to the pressure and we were able to work out a deal about 4 years ago. Life got in the way and it had been sitting in my garage waiting to be worked on.



It's a 1973.5 911T (CIS) non-sunroof in Tangerine with 125k miles. The paint is in great shape and it had a windows out respray before it went into storage. The car was stored in a high elevation, desert environment, so super dry. Very little rust anywhere, undercarriage looks great, frunk is immaculate (even the battery boxes). The engine compartment is clean, although the engine has oil leaks from everywhere, which is part of the reason it was taken off the road.











The interior is excellent, no cracks in the dash or rear parcel shelf, but the headliner has some staining. I sniffed the fuel tank and it smelled OK, although I have no illusions on this and am assuming the whole fuel system, from tank to injectors will need some level of attention. The mice had been lurking in and around it, but there is little to no damage. I checked as much of the wiring harness as possible and found no munching by those little devils.



I started work at the front by draining and removing the fuel tank and disassembling the front suspension, brakes and master cylinder and steering rack. Cleaning the fuel tank was a pain and I’m not sure it’s clean enough. I built a cradle for it that allowed me to pour in white vinegar and let it soak in various rotated positions to try to clean it without ruining the swirl pot. Got a lot of rust out, but there is still a very light coating of rust inside, so I’m not sure if I’m going to let it ride or replace the tank. I’m going to defer this decision based on feedback from this forum. Thoughts?





Front end is all back together with all parts cleaned and rubber parts replaced, and now on the rear end and my first ever engine drop. I was able to drop the engine and transaxle without too much trouble and got it on the cradle and engine stand (cradle and stand were a Christmas present from wifey, pretty cool).

[TBone78SC]

So now that it’s on the stand I’ve removed the CIS, fan, alternator, shroud and heat exchangers with thoughts on addressing the oil leaks. The intake side looks pretty good, but the exhaust side looks pretty rough. Is this a normal condition or is there work to be done on the valves? Here are the intake valves...

[TBone78SC]

And here are the pics of the exhaust valves. What are your thoughts on the valves?

[walt]

Nice, great color and year. Personally, I would replace the entire fuel system and send the injectors out for cleaning. Given the oil in the exhaust ports now would be a good time for a top end tear down and replace valve seals and rings.

[75 911s]

Fantastic! Looks like it is in really good shape. I would also replace the fuel lines, if you got the tank clean enough, then I'd re-use that, but newer take-offs or new altogether are available. I would also do at least a top end. Car is too nice not to take your time and rebuild the motor. By the way, nice shop! looks clean and organized.

[911obgyn]

If you want to get more rust out of the tank throw some ball bearings in there and slosh them around, but tanks are pretty cheap.
If you use that tank get some clear filters and put a row of them in and take them out one at a time as they fill up.

[nvr2mny]

Great find and perfect colors! Please post some interior shots. As has been mentioned I’d replace all the fuel lines and at the least do a top end job. You should be able to get the tank clean. I’d also replace the brake lines and rebuild the calipers. Stopping is just as important as going. Nothing like keeping it original. Have fun and post lots of pics.

[fanaudical]

That's a great starting point!

You mentioned that engine leaks oil from everywhere. Do you know from where specifically? A top-end rebuild can take care of most leak points, but if you have a leak at the case or base of cylinders then you might need more work.

[targa72e]

For your gas tank you might try cleaning with electrolysis. I did this on my rusty 914 tank (sat for 20 years) and was quite impressed. I filled the tank with water and a little bit of baking soda and some dish soap. Then I used my battery charger and hooked one wire to the tank and the other to a bunch of steel wire that I lowered into the tank (make sure it doesn't touch the tank. Basically plated the wire with the rust.

This is a pic after first pass.



I cant find the pics of when I was done but basically shiny metal on the inside.

John

[skinnerd]

Don't get rid of your tank....I think that is a one year only example with the swirl tank and full size spare. The swirl pot is needed for the fuel injected cars, CIS and later. The 74 and later swirl pot tanks use a space saver tire so the hole for the tire is much smaller than yours. If you can't clean it to your satisfaction (and it can be tough) to do, there are companies that specialize in this that can do it for you.

I'm very envious of your barn find. Looking for just such a unicorn. Nice one. Take your time and it sounds like an engine rebuild might be in your future. It would be a good investment as "original" cars as yours are worth lots of money if they are in decent shape.

[911obgyn]

Good idea using electrolosis, i will have to do that on my 65 chevy truck tank. (With the row of filters being removed one at a time.)

[faapgar]

A couple of gallons of apple cider vinegar.Tape some holes up with Gorilla duct tape and shake a few times over 24 hours.Rinse with distilled water and do not coat the inside of the tank.Fred

[Cairo94507]

Heck, send it out to a radiator shop to let them boil it out. Then you can assess it for use or replacement. Beautiful car.

[Kidasters]

For the tank - send it out. I had a rusty original tank for a 1972 mini that I sent out - so glad I did. I'd be interested to understand why someone would say "don't coat it"? If you send it to a professional, hell ya I'd have it coated as well.

This is who I used that is near Houston, and I'd recommend them:

https://www.donhart.com/fuel-tanks/

Your exhaust valves look bad. It looks like you've had a lot of oil blow by. I think you will need more than a top end. But - car looks fantastic, and even doing a rebuild without splitting the case - looks like it's worth it to me.

Love it - please keep posting.

[911obgyn]

Coating will block swirl pot and screen in tank

[Kidasters]

Originally Posted by 911obgyn

Coating will block swirl pot and screen in tank

If the coating is de-laminating, you have a different problem.

If the coating is done by a professional, and it adheres to the tank and doesn't come off - you never have to worry about rust again.

So - don't have a fly-by-night guy coat it. Don't do it yourself. Send it out, and tell them to coat it.

[BLACK3.2]

We need a new category called "barn stalking"

[Trackrash]

Deja vu. My car looked exactly like that when I first got it many years ago.

I had good luck soaking my tank in phosphoric acid, AKA Prep and Prime. Although electrolysis sounds like it may be the way to go. Hopefully the rust did not leave any pin holes. I had that happen a couple of times on VWs.

As mentioned replace ALL the rubber fuel lines.

Also, assuming the motor has never been apart, definitely do a top end job. Those old valve guides rarely last over 100k miles.

While you are in there take a look at those iron cylinders. You may want to consider an upgrade....

[Flojo]

if it were mine, I'd get me a 3.0 with carbs and SSI
less costly than to overhaul and upgrade the present engine.
change my mind.

[Steam Driver]

Be VERY careful about who boils out your gas tank. The shop I took my SC tank to came highly recommended but when I got it back it was destroyed.

The inside was clean, the swirl pot OK, but the threaded fittings for the fuel lines were totally destroyed. No longer threaded fittings, just unrecognizable lumps.