Torsion bar stuck to spring plate

[kavadarci]

Hi,
I attempted this 3 years ago and was defeated and now I’m back at it with more information and “wisdom” but no same thing.
The torsion bar is stuck to the spring plate and on blaster heat and the home made gizmo did nothing.
I’m now damaging the paint on the torsion bar and getting frustrated so time to stop.
The leverage and pressure I put should have disconnected an elephant.

What are my other options?
Drill from the front pb blaster and heat?
Cut all the rubber and try heat?

I’m defeated yet again and I read that they just pop out , not for me I guess.

Thank you

[john walker's workshop]

Drill a hole in the end cap and pry the cap out, then go at it with an airhammer through the fender hole.
Once, I cut the bar with a disc cutter. Had lots of extras on the shelf. There's a point where you just say F it.

[jjeffries]

With your wooden clamp acting as a spacer and to spread the load, I’d whack on the end of the t-bar with at least a 4lb sledgehammer and maybe a 1/2” ratchet extension as a drift (through the cover in the rear fender). You could tape the end of the bar but if you have to touch up it’s paint, no biggie. Hard strikes will be more effective than leverage. Plenty of anti-seize when you reassemble. Obviously, don’t whack the fender; having an assistant to hold the drift would allow my focus on swinging the hammer ... but don’t whack your assistant, either!

Also, when you levered, were you applying pressure at two points at the same time (I.e., 3 and 9 o’clock or similar?) That’s mandatory with a tight fit like this. Wiggle both levels simultaneously.

Best of luck, John

[kavadarci]

Ok,
I’m trying this.
Preparing for the second attack.
I shall win, :-)

Thank you

[pete3799]

This was the only way i could get mine off.

[Solamar]

My attack found victory by wrapping a bit of cardboard around the tbar, just inside the spring plate, then clamping a vice-grip over the cardboard. Then smacking the vice -grips body with a hammer (inward) finally broke the tbar loose from the spring plate.

Ain't pretty....

[kavadarci]

You guys are hilarious and helping me realize it is not just me. This thing is horrible to remove and i know i gave it a good effort.

More to come.

[IROC]

I had so much trouble getting mine out, I wrote an article for Excellence magazine. I ended cutting mine off with a hacksaw and buying new spring plates (already had new torsion bars).

The article was in the October '94 issue.

[jjeffries]

Originally Posted by IROC

I had so much trouble getting mine out, I wrote an article for Excellence magazine. I ended cutting mine off with a hacksaw and buying new spring plates (already had new torsion bars).

The article was in the October '94 issue.

The golden era of Excellence!

John

[75 911s]

Easiest and best way to save all parts is to drill a hole in the end. You can see me do it in one of my yt episodes here if you want. Starts about the 5:30 mark.

[kavadarci]

Wow lucky you.
That is a no go for me as the cap came out first .
Is what I’m looking the end of the torsion bar?

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

Hi,

You have the right idea, but you need longer levers prying evenly from both sides. Enlist a helper and borrow two long crow bars (or equivalent). Try that before resorting to fire and brimstone.

Sherwood

[john walker's workshop]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

Wow lucky you.
That is a no go for me as the cap came out first .
Is what I’m looking the end of the torsion bar?

Yup. Air hammer with a blunt bit and VOILA!

[T6andT]

What John said. I used a big hammer and drift. What a PITA. One side was just difficult, other may as well had been welded on but eventually it will come. Keep the faith. Lucky are the few where they come off easily.

[Trackrash]

Yeah, use blocks of wood between the body and SP like in the pics above and use a BFH and thick drift to knock it out.

[kavadarci]

Ok,
The beast is out.
I hope I don’t have to do the same on the other side.
What I did is used two blocks to keep it out enough so I can hammer the hell out of it with my daughter holding the spring plate.

It’s heavily rusted and no prying would have removed this beast.

Now the bushings.
I know there is a tool for it but I don’t have it.
What’s the other trick?

Also I noticed the torsion bar was heavily greased. Is that a trick to keep it from rusting?

Thank you so much for your help.

[Trackrash]

Back in the day it was recommended to cover the TB with grease to help prevent rusting. Also the splines should be greased, for obvious reasons. So wire brush the splines and grease them when you reassemble.

Removing the original rubber bushings that are vulcanized on? Cut as much off with a saw, then use a torch and wire brush to remove the remainder.

[kavadarci]

ok, i'm on it.
By the way the other side is NOT better but worse as i can't remove the torsion bar from the chassis and the spring plate from the torsion bar. stuck on both ends. Will continue tomorrow.

[Trackrash]

Fortunately the center spline in the torsion tube goes through. So a long rod can be inserted from the other side and used to knock it out.

Also, you may want to SERIOUSLY consider replacing your spring plates with the newer adjustable ones. Trust me, you will be VERY lucky if you get your T bars set perfectly the first time. And you don't want to have to do it over.

[john walker's workshop]

To get the rubber off, I use an oxy/acetylene torch inside the tube until the rubber gets stinky and smokey and then grab the rubber with a big ass channel-lock plier and twist it off. In a vise of course. Then a bench grinder wire wheel to clean off the rest.