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"I" would pull the engine and build an engine stand to get it running and satisfy my Vroom, Vroom jonesing.....then attack the rust demons. You're going to need a battery anyways, get one that you'll use in the 911. Get a battery tender to keep it charged.
The engine is going to need oil seals at the very least in the triangle of death area. Carbs likely will need a going over and the CV boots, joints and ancillary items associated with the trans. Send the wheels out for a buff and shine. Replace the tires even if they have "good" tread. They are old and WILL fail. Start stripping the interior. Carpets and sound deadening to search out the rust that is sleeping in places you wouldn't think to look at. Get used to the smell of moth balls as you will likely have transient rodents passing through. That should get you started. A 69 can be put on the road with a crappy paint job without shame. BTW, where are you located? After the above is started, you can consider building a rotisserie to allow spinning the project 360 degrees on it's axis. Easy access to cut and weld and save your back. Lincoln and a few other companies make great wire fed home use welders. A couple of good cutting tools will help. DeWalt and others make good cordless units. Get extra batteries. |
Start collecting parts and tools. Parts because the prices continue to rise.
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If you have the interest, you can make the time.
Another challenge is having the space. I would love a project like that if I had the shop space. |
huss,
first thing if you are considering keeping the car do you have a steady job and a house to live in with a garage to keep the car? if the answer is YES, then I would keep the car and do the work yourself if you keep the car you may be able to strip it down to the tub and then pay a shop to do the rust repair then decide how much of the paint prep you can do yourself and have a pro do the rest of the paint with the engine you need to investigate its condition and you can do that right now check the valve lash and do a leak down and see how the rings and valves are sealing if the leak down is acceptable then get the engine running and check the oil pressure if the oil pressure is OK and the leak down is good then you don't need a rebuild if the oil pressure is OK and the leak down is poor, you may get away with doing a top end if the oil pressure is low (your oil light flickers when idling hot is a clue) then the problem is probably worn bearings and you will probably have to split the case to replace the mains. the worst case scenario will probalby take you a decade but if you have a steady job and you are patient then just keep plugging away and eventually you will have a cool car you can drive. if you don't have a steady job then you will have much bigger problems and this car will be a huge headache |
Huss,
Otto_kretschmer made a very good point. You need to have a garage big enough to stage the car, parts, engine and trans, seats etc. You will need a minimum two car garage space and will occupy every square foot for at least the next few years. If you haven't any welding or metal fabricating experience, please leave the rust repair to the pro's. Where are you located? I know of a good air cooled engine mechanic. |
Do something every day towards your goal
Buying the car was just a first step Even small steps bring you ahead |
removing the engine, trans, perform a leak down test - takes a couple of hours
you can DIY engine rebuilds to me, the issue is the rust - it may need to be put on a rotisserie and really fixed - the parts are not spendy but the labor is does the car have emotional value to you? |
huss,
having a T in many ways is a blessing because its just a much easier car to diagnose and work on. Twin carburetors and a low pressure fuel pump, and you have a points ignition (I think). I bought my 76 about 16 years ago and its been a garage queen for the last decade. Ethanol laced gasoline doesn't help either. My car is a California car so it doesn't have any rust but it was in an accident and never was fixed right. |
If it was me I would have a respected person look at the body and help you decide if the car is worth saving.
If all you are seeking is a nice safe driver, repair the rust to make the car sound. Then go over the mechanicals (brakes, suspension, motor, transmission) and electricals to be sure they are working properly. Once you have the car working, address interior snd cosmetics. |
Have a look at this guy's journey. Limited experience to start, has become quite a welder and patch maker, making steady progress. Lots of rust.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Fforums%2Epelicanparts%2Eco m%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D967802&share_tid=967802 &share_fid=844&share_type=t&link_source=app Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk |
Welcome. Hope you can save it. Good luck!
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