Replaicing front strut on 83 SC

[BobT]

Hello all

I am new to the list, and the timing for hearing about this group could not be better. I managed to bend the drivers side front strut on my 83 SC, and need to replace it. I have got the replacement parts, I have the Bentley manual too. I just need to decide if I am going to take this job on myself. The part that concerns me is the "separate tie rod from strut steering arm". Bentley says you need special VW tool #267. I have done lots of work on cars, but never ball joints and such. What tool do I need, and how difficult is this job?? How long would someone guess this should take??

Am I better off paying someone to do this??

Thanks!!

Bob T

[jakermc]

Sounds like the tool the are describing is the combination spanner/wrench available from our host. Once side is a spanner and is used to remove stock tie rods. The other side is an open wrench and is used to install turbo tie rods. Only cost $30 or so and worth the investment. Makes the job go very smoothly.

I can't speak to the strut job, but tie rods are one of the easier ones to do. If you need to remove your stock tie rods., now would be a good time to upgrade to turbo tie rods.

[fred cook]

In order to replace your strut, you will need a tie rod "pickle fork" or the screw type removal tool, the special socket to remove the ball joint nut below the lower control arm (a really good air wrench will help a lot, also), and a set of metric "line wrenches" to remove the brake lines. The small tapered bolt that holds the ball joint to the strut is usually a major pain to get out and is best done on the work bench. You can remove the large center nut on the top of the strut with either the special wrench to hold the large washer in place or by using a medium sized pipe wrench to hold the washer while loosening the nut. The order of disassembly that I would use would be:

wheel/tire
Brake line
Caliper
brake rotor and hub
ball joint nut
tie rod end
top strut nut


Just remember that patience is better than having to buy additional damaged parts or bandages!


Good Luck!

Fred Cook
'80 911SC coupe

[john walker's workshop]

the tie rod end will not seperate from the arm by beating on the threads, but striking the ring end of the arm real hard with a large ballpeen pops them loose every time. you need good aim and you can't be afraid to really pop it a good one. the blow momentarily ovalizes the tapered bore and pops out the tapered pin. more than one blow will probably be necessary. there's also a tie rod puller type tool, and a pickle fork that you beat in with a hammer and tear up the boot in the process. i've used the BFH method forever.

[jakermc]

I misread your post, you are looking at the steering arm attachment. I used the tie rod puller (also available from our host) and it popped right out of the arm. Hardly had to tighten the screw at all. It is worth the investment in time and aggravation. You may even be able to borrow a tool from another Pelicanite in your area.

[69 911s]

JW, I have always used the two bfh method, target is easier to hit for the aim impaired like me. Also, why disconnect the brake hydraulics when you could detatch the caliper and suspend it with a bungee and avoid the bleeding?

[vesnyder]

I just did mone this Winter and used a large piece of brass to avoid damaging the tie rod end. Mine popped right out - no problem!