shock or ball joint?

[pryord]

When I drive my SC slowly (20 mph or so) over uneven pavement, I hear a rattling (not clunking) sound from my front right fender area. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel. How can I tell if it's the shock or ball joint? Could it be something else?

THANKS!

Could be the horn(s). I had the same thing & it turned out one was hanging by the electrical wire.

[Rot 911]

Or could be the strut retaining nut has backed off

[pryord]

Kurt,

Do you mean the nut found on top of the strut in the trunk?

[Vipergrün]

I had a rattle up front on my SC. Turned out that the bends in the trombone cooler were rubbing.

[Rot 911]

Originally posted by pryord
Kurt,

Do you mean the nut found on top of the strut in the trunk?

Nope, I mean part #4 in the attached diagram:

[RichMason]

I would bet on #4 - the strut retaining nut. It has happened to me twice and I just fixed it again this afternoon. It is a clunk that happens with any up and down motion once it gets badly enough and it is probably just on one side. If your ball joint was that loud, I think it would have to be broken. That retaining nut is supposed to be torqued to 90 with a special Bilstein wrench. I used a hammer and a big screwdriver.

[pryord]

So, where is this retaining nut? On top or bottom of the strut? I'll check it when I get home.

[Rot 911]

Originally posted by pryord
So, where is this retaining nut? On top or bottom of the strut? I'll check it when I get home.

Pryord, it is #4 in the diagram I posted. You need to jack up the front of your 911 so the struts are fully extended. You will then see the strut retaining nut.

[RichMason]

Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Remove the nut inside the trunk that holds the top of the strut to the car. push down on wheel or compress strut dust cover until threaded top of strut comes out of the hole in the fender and falls into the inside of your fender. Now you can lift up the dust shield and see the retaining nut. You have to take the strut loose to get at this (on my Bilsteins). Torque this to 90 lbs (if you have appropriate wrench) or beat it to death. Reassemble - it can be quite difficult to compress strut to get the threaded part back in the hole and then you have to lift on hub (you can use a jack) to compress the strut enough to get the top washer and nut back on it. Torque this to 50 lbs (or really tight). Be careful not to destroy your brake line in the process as the weight of the hub can tear it.

[pryord]

For some reason, my computer isn't showing Kurt's pic. However, Rich's description helps, so I'll check it out tonight.

Thanks for all the advice!

David