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rusted front wheel tortion bar attach rusted. what to do?
Hello,
While working on the car, I noticed that the attach point for the front wheel tortion is so rusted that it is not holding on much anymore. it seems that the rust is comming from the battery area (probably due to acid leak).... Here are some pictures... I am really feeling low about that... What should I do? Can anyone point me to any drawing that explains how it is setup so that I can fix it? is fixing it a big job? Thanks, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Va1...ew?usp=sharing Cyrille |
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It has to be professionally cut out and repaired by a experienced welder.
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Or if you are "handy" there are many owners that have done this job themselves. Replacement of the belly pan is required to do it right. Looks like there is more cancer in front of that mounting position.
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problems
When the car was towed last time it released from over tensioned tie down and broke free.Cap over bushing is pulled forward an inch or so.Need a good welder for sure.Fred
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Cyrille, google or search “suspension pan replacement”. You will find numerous threads and videos. If you have the tools and experience, it can be a diy project. However, as has been mentioned, the rust showing is probably a sign of greater rot.
dho |
Good observation by Fred. He's spot on correct that the bushing carrier is pulled forward and has exposed "fresh" rubber.
To fix it right, you need a jig to make sure the suspension points are properly re-established. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1613081658.jpg |
Restoration Design sells the pan, and they have this video on how to replace:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QtzA1Fj9Vc They use the suspension A-arms to relocate the pan before welding, but a lot of people won't agree with that method - not precise enough. Here is a thread with really major front end rust repair: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1039583-my-81-sc-build-front-suspension-pan-replacement.html I think a shop that knows what they are doing can replace this for you without costing crazy money. Maybe $2K. But the real question is going to be how bad things look when they start cutting. The problem is the cross-member and other parts of the pan are hollow and inaccessible except for the battery acid. It can get eaten out from within. Mark |
There is more damage/rust than just at that suspension point.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1613096592.jpg |
What year is the car? its normal stuff you find on some of these old 911s. As the others have said, you need a front pan replacement. From the looks of that bushing, you may as well clean-up go through the front suspension while the pan is being done.
I remember my 1st 911, same issue. Just wait till it begins to flap around while driving.. hell, its a wonder I didn't die in that car! |
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I just got a quoted from reputable shop in NYC area for floor pan replacement on my SC for $2k. Just sharing as data point. Whether or not more needs to be done and if the final bill is $2k remains to be seen.
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Hello,
Upon looking carefully, you are correct... Any clue on how to fix that! Unfortunately, it does not seem to be a "panel" area, but part of the car structure. Does the area just get cut out and a new chunk of metal gets re-welded there (not that I will do it, just trying to understand the process). Cyrille |
Follow the YouTube link in post 8 and you will see what gets replaced.
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I usually do not chime in on threads like this, but after reading some of these prices I just had to. You guys have to be off your rocker to think your getting this job done for 2k, that is absolutely not realistic and if it is, id love to see the finished product.
IMO 5k is still wait under what it costs. I have now completed 8 of these jobs and let me tell you, I will not touch another one for almost double that. I guess it all depends on what you want the finished product to look like.,.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938374.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938688.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599938688.jpg |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599939825.jpg |
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But I have enough experience with other tasks so I can relate how time consuming an accurately executed job is. and time is money. if that front end is not set up properly neither the suspension will be straight but also the gaps will not fit. so any pro doing this job correctly will want the money for it. |
I am also in the “you can’t pay me enough camp”. Approx 80 hrs +/- plus parts and materials. Mind you this to do it right. Doing one right now as we speak and car is on a celette. Fenders off, gas tank out, complete front suspension and steering out, a gazillion spot welds and a ton of time spent finishing to make it all look original and have proper corrosion protection
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Yep...I'm selling my car because it has it.
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